SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: ka0tyk on August 28, 2012, 12:11:34 AM
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ive been noticing a little ticking noise coming from my passenger head... i think its a bad hyd lifter. its not constantly making noise and it checks out fine with a compresion check, etc.
whats a decent set of lifters that wont kill the bank? i figure if im gonna tear into it i should do some roller rockers while im at it, ive currently got stamped steelies in it. with those changes is it a bad idea to keep the pushrods or get new?
whats the process for replacing? just undo the rocker, pull the pushrod, pull the lifter, put new in (after being cleaned and soaked in oil), pushrod, put rocker on, tighten rocker, repeat 16 times?
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That's about it... but you might want to remove the intake manifold so you can get the lifters out and in. ;)
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I bought a set of lifters from Jegs, good selection at reasonable cost. Bought Teague design roller rockers that fit under stock valve covers for $280 and Manley push rods at Teague were also priced good. Easy to install and adjust.
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There was a thread about lifters on PB a few months ago and someone who knows what they are talking about recommended Delphi / GM lifters if you’re going with an F/T cam. I am going to try a set with a cam I just got for my chevelle. Also if you do change to roller rockers, make sure they ride in the correct spot on the valve stem.
Here’s a link for the lifters
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CW-SBC-CHEVY-DELPHI-FLAT-TAPPET-HYDRAULIC-LIFTERS-Made-in-USA-305-327-350-400-/170894288347?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ca17e5db&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CW-SBC-CHEVY-DELPHI-FLAT-TAPPET-HYDRAULIC-LIFTERS-Made-in-USA-305-327-350-400-/170894288347?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ca17e5db&vxp=mtr)
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I thot it was always better to replace the cam and lifters together as they both create a wear pattern
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I thot it was always better to replace the cam and lifters together as they both create a wear pattern
While this is true, it used to be a common practice to replace the lifters if one had a problem back when oil had a good zinc content. As long as the break in procedure is followed again and some zinc additive is used, there is a better than good chance that everything will be hunky dory...
Obviously it would be better to replace the cam and lifters and at the same time go hydraulic roller, but did you catch the "that won't break the bank"?
A good roller camshaft and rollers with a matching set of push-rods will cost close to what he has in the whole boat. (No offense ka0tyk ;) )
A roller cam kit lists for in excess of $1100...... :screwy:
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Obviously it would be better to replace the cam and lifters and at the same time go hydraulic roller, but did you catch the "that won't break the bank"?
A good roller camshaft and rollers with a matching set of push-rods will cost close to what he has in the whole boat. (No offense ka0tyk ;) )
A roller cam kit lists for in excess of $1100...... :screwy:
no offense at all. theres a lot of people out there that overlook a good complete strong valvetrain setup. and yes they're EXTREEEEMELY costly when you price the whole thing. i have a tick right now that i want to address. if i can upgrade a few parts while replacing the broken ones (i think its a lifter) while keeping the parts that are in good working order (pushrods, springs, valves, etc...)
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no offense at all. theres a lot of people out there that overlook a good complete strong valvetrain setup. and yes they're EXTREEEEMELY costly when you price the whole thing. i have a tick right now that i want to address. if i can upgrade a few parts while replacing the broken ones (i think its a lifter) while keeping the parts that are in good working order (pushrods, springs, valves, etc...)
Have you looked for a rocker that has been running dry? Sometimes (about 50% of the time) you can find the bad lifter by inspecting the rockers....may only need to buy one... ;)
Look for bluing or heat build up on one rocker arm....Also inspect the push-rod ends.
I have also done the Marvel Mystery oil added to the engine oil, it sometimes frees up a sticky plunger.... (So cheap it's almost free)..
Good luck, I like the fix it before it becomes bigger method, it's refreshing... :thumbup:
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Had a "tick" in one valve/lifter, all stock 454, ('78 k30 4x4 wrecker) #2 cyl, first lifter, Exhaust, I think. Replaced one lifter without pulling the intake, kind of a bitch, and lasted another 4 years ~80,000 mi. (Lower end finally got loose, 'Rattled' at idle.) these were 781 heads, and enough room to sneak a lifter through the head and into the lifter bore, several pushrods removed. Had I dropped it, I would have (had to) taken the intake off. One of those quick fixes that lasted till the rest wore out. These trucks HAD to be running and reliable at all times, it was 24 hr towing/recovery.
Try running the valves first to find it, then see if you can sneek one lifter in, all else fails, pull manifold and put only one lifter in, or bite the bullet and do a cam/lifter kit. After I went roller, I'd never use a flat tappet again, unless I had to--racing rules, oddball engine, etc
Marvel mystery oil works wonders too
Thats all I got
Daniel
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Had a "tick" in one valve/lifter, all stock 454, ('78 k30 4x4 wrecker) #2 cyl, first lifter, Exhaust, I think. Replaced one lifter without pulling the intake, kind of a bitch, and lasted another 4 years ~80,000 mi. (Lower end finally got loose, 'Rattled' at idle.) these were 781 heads, and enough room to sneak a lifter through the head and into the lifter bore, several pushrods removed. Had I dropped it, I would have (had to) taken the intake off. One of those quick fixes that lasted till the rest wore out. These trucks HAD to be running and reliable at all times, it was 24 hr towing/recovery.
Try running the valves first to find it, then see if you can sneek one lifter in, all else fails, pull manifold and put only one lifter in, or bite the bullet and do a cam/lifter kit. After I went roller, I'd never use a flat tappet again, unless I had to--racing rules, oddball engine, etc
Marvel mystery oil works wonders too
Thats all I got
Daniel
yeh not too worried about pulling intake off, already did it. plus to get valve covers off i have to drop my exhaust... oh well. just a couple gaskets, roller rockers, hyd roller lifters, and some RTV.
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yeh not too worried about pulling intake off, already did it. plus to get valve covers off i have to drop my exhaust... oh well. just a couple gaskets, roller rockers, hyd roller lifters, and some RTV.
Hydraulic rollers are taller than flat tappets, oem style or the link bar style--so shorter pushrods are in order, might as well get 7/16 push rods and guide plates, longer rocker studs, and stainless roller rockers. Might need springs to match the roller cam too. Dont forget about valve guide height/coil bind clearance. Cam button is a must, as is a double roller timing chain. Might need a bronze or melonized dizzy gear, depending on cam. Its also nice to know valve to piston clearance at this point too.
What/whose cam are ya going with?
Daniel
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definitely need to change the springs when going from f/t to roller, incorrect spring rates will wipe out the valve train much faster