SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: Luckie Stiff on February 14, 2010, 07:10:20 PM
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Just for shchitzengiggles I thought I'd ask these questions:
What kind of hose?
What kind of fittings?
What size line from your tanks to your fuel pump?
From the fuel pump to the carb?
What size water line are you running from your pump to the inlet side of your motor?
What happens with the outgoing water?
Header control valve?
Where do you get the water for the header control valve?
The reason I'm asking is that I'm going to redo the plumbing in my boat, I've looked at hundreds of pics online for ideas, just curious as to how you guys did it.
Thanks
Skip
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in the race boat everything (gas and water) is -8 AN's with braided hose. except the water dump is -10
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Here's the way I have it set up right now, the 1/2" is -8, the 1/4 ID is actually 3/8" ID or -6
My fuel lines are all -6
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Skip,
Take this with a grain of Margarita salt...
I don't like running the header valve off of the main...I'm weird that way.
My reasoning is as follows; There is more pressure available there than you could ever use, the water is as cold as it gets. Why not run the water off the t-stat housing? The reason I like that is because you get 120*F water instead of lake temp (55*-70*F) which converts to steam quicker (you only need to keep the headers below 350*F to keep the chrome silver), this will also make the block pressure more consistent, which in turn will keep the temp more steady IMHO.
1/2" is more than large enough, other than that I don't think I would change anything.... :thumbup:
Not saying your way is wrong or wont work, just the way my brain works....A hotter exhaust is a better performing exhaust. :thumbup:
GT
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I get what you're saying about the header water, but I can assure you I barely crack the valve it sits about 1/2 way between OFF and LOW, very little water, more like very little steam out of my pipes, just enough to show the coppers I'm running water.
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I get what you're saying about the header water, but I can assure you I barely crack the valve it sits about 1/2 way between OFF and LOW, very little water, more like very little steam out of my pipes, just enough to show the coppers I'm running water.
Even bigger reason to run the warmer water, it converts quicker so you will obtain the noise reducing advantage with even less water...It's a win win. :sly:
I run mine this way and I don't have to worry about it, very set it and forget it.
I am not trying to sway you, just the way I roll.... 8)
GT
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Great thread, i too am going to be re plumbing everything in my boat soon. Looking forward to seeing what everyone is using. Some pics would be great too :thumbup:
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hay Skip, what kind of motor and horsepower? What kind of exhaust?
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hay Skip, what kind of motor and horsepower? What kind of exhaust?
BBC, 500HP on a damn good day, Bassett O/T headers.
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BBC, 500HP on a damn good day, Bassett O/T headers.
I'll call yuh
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Just did mine last season.
Fuel, -8 from tanks to fuel rail, all fuel from tanks to motor fuel is -8 , Just added a balance hose between both tanks,its a -20. A Y from the fuel reg and 2 -6 lines returning to each tank.
Water, -12 from pump to sea strainer there is a -12 t in between the pump and strainer for a garden hose connection so it will feed both the pump and strainer when ran at home., then 2 -10 to motor from strainer, 1 -12 to oil cooler from strainer for water then dump,1 -10 to water pressure bypass regulater from strainer then dump, and 2 -10 dumps from block, both sides of hull, exiting middle side of hull, dry exhaust.
Oil is all - 12. ran a oil filter bypass witch mounts on the front of block so 1 -12 from the block to the cooler then to the filter then back to the block. I might have it going though the filter then to cooler, forgot.
I used all xrp hose ends and fittings, aeroquip steel braided hose. I also ran all y blocks instead of T's to insure better flow at all split's except for the t for running at home.
There was a lot to my set up Ill post a few pics tom
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Here's a glance