SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: quick olds on August 01, 2010, 08:02:02 PM
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Any pros cons good brands bad brands i almost sank cuz my line blew off the t valve but any lower water from the gate valve and she gets hot at idle and low rpm.
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I use a standard house regulator, Home Depot, set it at about 20 psi and you're good
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I use a standard house regulator, Home Depot, set it at about 20 psi and you're good
Did you pull the inlet screen from it? ;)
GT
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They also have a 25 lb flow vave in the plumbing depot $ app 6.00 seems to work well.
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And does it have a guage on it or do i need 1?
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OK, 2 sides to this response. MY sides.
I tried a pressure releif valve, and a pop off valve on Moo. The pump just simply pushed back too much pressure to the engine and eventually hydrolocked #3 a tad through the headers at the Tom Papp deal back in January. That is just the start of the story on what went wrong with this engine. The main problem was me dictating the tight tolerances I did, but that's another matter. The boats original engine only lasted 20 minutes in stock form and far less formidable conditions, I'm pretty happy I got a year of very hard running with it this way with the new engine I put in it. Now that I kinda understand what went on, not gonna make the same mistakes three times.
You do NOT need a pressure relief valve tied to another O/B dump. A pop-off might not be a bad idea for the paranoid (ME), but even that is unneccesary.
Skip is gonna argue with me for this, but here's the reasoning. You said closing the gate valve off the pump caused abnormal temperatures. I'll get into that in a minute, but the gate, or ball, valve there is the only proper way to regulate water and pressure to the enigine. If you run a true pressure releif valve, or a pop-off, that runs water pretty consistently, that is lost thrust, or intake water, from the pump, IMHO. Lost performance, lost speed.
A water pressure guage on the engine is the only way to know what is going on here. I suspect a block partially full of sand, dirt, or worse, myself. (Don't ask me how I know this, it all relates to Moo). Run a sand filter of some sort!! :thumbup: Otherwise, choking off the water coming into the engine (A sign of a good pump), is the only way to really alleviate the situation.
Just my .02 again........ :screwy:
Ray
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It does not have a gauge it is a flow device that reuces the flow to 25 lbs on the discharge end.
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Ok i just rebuilt it and had the block hot tanked and got as much sand as i could out the valve comin off the pump is a standard garden hose valve and if i open it more than 1/2 turn its way to much water it sprays out of the weep holes in the headers so what do you guys suggest i never had this problem b4 so idk whats goin on with it or how to fix it
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Ok i just rebuilt it and had the block hot tanked and got as much sand as i could out the valve comin off the pump is a standard garden hose valve and if i open it more than 1/2 turn its way to much water it sprays out of the weep holes in the headers so what do you guys suggest i never had this problem b4 so idk whats goin on with it or how to fix it
Stop stop stop what you are doing. You are going to hydrolock that engine. You do have a T-valve to the headers don’t you. If not the basset site has the water flow diagram for headers.
Search “water valve” or something like that. This topic has come up a lot here. I run pressure relief valve with not problems. My pressure at the block never reaches over 20psi. My temp is right at 175 degrees (ran cooler when it had a carb on it but with the blower it is now at 175). I have 2 dumps from the thermostat housing. So from the back of the boat when running you will see 3 of the 4 water outlets letting water out. One from the pressure relief valve, one from the left dump and one from the right dump. I had a banderlog on this boat but stopped working twice on me which I have yet to send back, hence you see the -8 line in the picture running to the back of the seat where I now have a basset T-valve instead of the banderlog valve.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tjsperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fblown_nordic09.JPG&hash=6ea6476090125611d64f2510b4ce9c805d16c1a6)
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I have the basset t valve to the headers my pump just pushes too much water to it the t valve is from one of the fittings from the tstat housing
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you could put a valve somewhere in between the t valve and the therm housing to reduce flow, or down size the hose diameter a bit, or just have some one in the back seat pinch the hose " fold it in half" like a garden hose. lol
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Im gonna re plumb the boat now and run that line to my seat with a ball valve so i can kill water to the headers when i need a couple extra ponies
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what tempature thermostat are u using? Im putting my boat all back together and i gotta replace it, not sure what temp to get while using this system! :screwy:
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so if u run to much water through the headers while cooling them its a bad thing? how do u know if its just right or not enough or to much?
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so if u run to much water through the headers while cooling them its a bad thing? how do u know if its just right or not enough or to much?
The typical Bassett header injector tubes have jets in them to restrict the flow, that being said, yes you can force too much water into the headers. I use a very simple tried and true recipe and have never ever had an issue with pressure or overheat.
it is all about balance and the right sized dump line. I like to keep things stupid simple.... :sly:
GT