SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: 19ftCheyenne on June 12, 2008, 12:36:33 PM
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can someone send a few pics of the water system, coming from the jet to the motor then back out to the headers.... im having trouble dialing this in... what kind of valves should i be using to regulate the water to the headers... please help!!
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http://www.cpperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=620-100p
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I have had my issues in the same manner and i am coming up short with answers. I am in the process of fixing mine as well as i have several issues going at the same time.
Scenerio #1 - Starting with a gate (or globe) valve at the jet to regulate the initial flow into the motor. Then on the "Out" side of things run a straight dump over board. as for the headers, rum an angle stop (just like under your sink) to the Bassett T-Valve then to the headers.
The theory here is to keep the ange stop wide open and set your temp at idle with the valve at the jet. Then adjust the angle stop to barely spit water at idle and to mist at about 2K RPM. as you pinch down on the ange stop, you may need to re-adjust the valve at the jet to adjust your idle temp.
Scenerio #2 - Run a pressure relief valve at the jet adjusted to 20# or so to regulate the amount of pressure being shot into the engine and a valve on the dump side.
I am having heating issues with my pig but i am pretty sure i am blocked somewhere. I asked the same question you did and i got very little response. Check out Bassett sites FAQ and also check out Jet boat performance site. Tom has the pressure relief set up and appearantly swears by it.
Let me know what you find as I would like to set mine up as well and be done with it.
Charley
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hey charlie, check to make sure that ur block isnt full of sand, trust me lol itll cause heat issues. My block had soo much sand in it when I got it that I couldnt see the cylinders when I took the freeze plugs out.
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If I could post a pic here I would. If you have bassett style injected headers you'll want a bassett t valve. So it's water off/out of the jet(yes a gate valve there) that line gets' t'd and plumbed into your inlet plates(where water pump would be). Then you'll need 2 outlets from either therm housing or out of intake by therm. housing. 1 will be your dump line. the other gets the bassett t valve and to you injection lines. A gate valve on the dump line will allow you to regulate at what rpm's the headers become "wet" the more you close the valve the sooner water enters the headers. If your not takling about injected headers then I just killed 5 min. lol ;D
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hey charlie, check to make sure that ur block isnt full of sand, trust me lol itll cause heat issues. My block had soo much sand in it when I got it that I couldnt see the cylinders when I took the freeze plugs out.
I pulled the motor and found about two coffee cans of sand in the motor and it was a new build. I cleaned it out, but it is still over heating. see my thread heating issues. Tonight i am going to rip all the lines out and check them to make sure they are clear, then block off the headers and remove a FP from each side and flush and back flush until i have sparklets water coming out.
Wish me luck!
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from the pump i got a gate valve then to a T up to the water pump plate. then i dump from one side of my t-stat housing (no valve) off the other port of the t-stat housing, i run to a header control valve, then to the bassett T-valve, then to the headers.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/DSC05453.JPG)
pic of header valve
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/DSC05532.JPG)
hope this helps
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Now this might look confusing but it is really simple. Water comes into the strainer and then to the bypass, also before the bypass it is "T" off to the banderlog valve. After the bypass the larger braided line goes to the engine inlet. Out from the engine is a gated water dump.
2nd pic shows the banderlog valve, this control water to the headers without a bassett "T" valve.
T.J.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tjsperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fwater_inlet_adapter04.jpg&hash=2e1f452554261ce5c3bf00f337a36fa0b5a99314)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tjsperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fwater_inlet_adapter05.jpg&hash=564c87bb5ff5e16e30c994ff4238cac40d7c04ce)
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hey rod, how long does it take to overheat? and how did u remove the sand? Im out in rancho cucamonga, but I work out in rancho mirage alot, maybe sometime I could come out and help u figure it out.
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I would really appreaciate that!!
Last night i went thru all my lines and found a few things that MIGHT make it overheat, but one really stands out. From the "Out" on the intake I have two outlets. One is a 3/8 to 1/2 flare, and the other is a 1/2 to 1/2 flare. I had the headers plumbed tot he 1/2 fitting and the dump plumbed to the 3/8 fitting. I switched them. Then i replumbed my dump. It was going from the intake to the stern, then all the way to the front seat to a ball valve then over. I just have it dumping out the transom now.
so all things being back to normal, it made me think that this guy that plumbed it that way had it that way for a reason. So i pulled a plug and found out why I was getting such great fuel milage. My plugs are pure white. This poor thing is starving for fuel which would explain why it ran so F&%#ing hot. I replaced the carb when i first bought it and didnt jet the thing right.
So now it is off to a new thread to figure out how to jet it. I have no clue!
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yessssssss,,, thanks alot ralph and tjs.. it all makes sense now.. my problem was i didnt have the ball and spring in my t valve :banghead:... i think im going to get that other valve and run into the front to help control the water temp too...
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http://www.cpperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=620-100p
I'm getting one of these valves. They look better quality and I've used one before with great results, not to mention much less expensive.
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=headervalveman