SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: jamiemwedmore1234 on September 21, 2013, 09:09:15 AM
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Anybody no how to regulate the water temp on a boat with lighting headers and what is the ideal running temp I'm barely over a 100' even after a hard run
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There should be either a ball or gate valve on the inlet water line off your jet. That is what contols the water temp.
The Beav
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I don't have any valve on the inlet And if I did I would worry about burning up my exhaust hoses all the water that enters my moter leaves through my exhaust
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Exhaust hose is pretty tough and unless you are running just about dry, you shouldn't burn up the exhaust hose.
-beerjet-
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I don't have any valve on the inlet And if I did I would worry about burning up my exhaust hoses all the water that enters my moter leaves through my exhaust
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Literally the only way to properly regulate the temperature is to reduce the flow.
If it were mine,I would install a valve and slightly reduce the flow until the temperature maxes out at 155 degrees give or take. This will likely be at idle. The hoses will survive as long a there is no dump line installed.
Temperature at WOT is somewhat irrelevant a long a it's cool, the oil temperature is more important..
I hope this answers your question.
GT
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What if I were to split the water at the inlet and dedicate one for the motor that can be regulated and one for the exhaust without any regulation
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Would it be wise to reduce the water before it enters the motor or when it leaves the motor if I regulate it at the t stat housing would there be to much water pressure
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Gt jets. What is a dump line
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What if I were to split the water at the inlet and dedicate one for the motor that can be regulated and one for the exhaust without any regulation
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Too complicated and totally unnecessary.
A reduced water flow to the exhaust will actually make the exhaust work better and reduce the chance of any reversion.
You will be fine with just a valve, I promise.
GT
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To help with any confusion this is how I run the water lines. From the pump it y,s off to the water pump ports comes out the t stat housing than into the headers with no restriction
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Gt jets. What is a dump line
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Many boats that have had over transom (OT)) headers had to have had a dump line to let water flow through the engine when the headers are shut off.
With your system, a dump should not be needed. Basically a hose coming from the outlet of the engine (typically at the thermostat housing) and just goes overboard like a bilge pump outlet.
GT
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Would it be wise to reduce the water before it enters the motor or when it leaves the motor if I regulate it at the t stat housing would there be to much water pressure
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Never, ever restrict the water leaving the motor...........
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When I had the headers made they extended the exhaust pipe out more just for that revision problem Gate valve it is thanks for the info.
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155 is the magic number ? So what kind of loss am I at when the motor is running at 100 to 110 degrees
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155 is the magic number ? So what kind of loss am I at when the motor is running at 100 to 110 degrees
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What do you mean loss?
The idea behind the warmer engine temperature has more to do with keeping the flow of water through the exhaust at a optimum amount, too much restricts/impedes exhaust flow (if water is there, exhaust cannot be) and too little can burn the hoses.
Otherwise, if you were to have had OT headers, the control of water temperature ensures you are not over pressurizing the block... Realistically, that's it.
Oil temperature IMHO is a bit more important.
I think that will answer your question. :-\
A cool motor is a happy motor, despite what a select few on here will say... :screwy:
The only reason I selected 155*F is because organic compounds and salts start to solidify at above 160*F, so this keeps things pretty flushed out. I doubt seriously that you will run it long enough at above 160* to cause any problems, but thought I should answer where that number comes from, it is also way below the boiling point of about 230* at 5 PSIG.
GT
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Good to no your comment on oil temp would running a better oil lik royal purple be a cheep resolution to insure my oil doesn't break dwn and do damage
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Good to no your comment on oil temp would running a better oil lik royal purple be a cheep resolution to insure my oil doesn't break dwn and do damage
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I would classify Royal Purple as an "OK" choice...
Virtually any quality motor oil will be fine IMHO.
Synthetics are my favorite, but only because I am an Amsoil dealer and have been using the stuff for over 20 years.
The biggest thing on oil selection is the type of camshaft you're using (roller or flat tappet), the oil temperatures you will see and the clearances the engine has been machined to.
Without all that information, the best you could do is a WAG (Wild Ass Guess)...
You typically cannot miss with a documented zinc content in a straight weight oil in the neighborhood of 40WT. Keeping in mind that this is a major generalization only, but should get you close.
Your oil temperatures should be in the 200*F range, too cold (less than 160*F) and you get banana puke in the valve covers, too warm (260*F) and it can break it down a little. That is a pretty big window, but you get the idea.
GT
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So gt do we get a discount on amsoil lol
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So gt do we get a discount on amsoil lol
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What product and how much are you looking to purchase? :sly:
GT
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10 qts of what ever you recommend
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I just wanted to say this is an excellent question
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Simply put. Go to Home Depot... Buy a brass gate valve and connect it to your jet pump.... That will allow you to easily control engine temperature with the twist of a wrist. If you want to get technical you can add a mechanical shut off valve and control your outlet flow through your exhaust. As well as controlling the exit flow pressure but as I said for your application, simply put... Just use the gate valve from pump to block inlet.
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10 qts of what ever you recommend
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Yeah same here and probly for a few friends and maybe for some 5/16 cars
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What do you think gt I have a packajet 460 all stock I think would the z rod 20 50wt be a good choice I believe the old owner of the boat ran 40 wt valoline
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