Would detonation be caused by improper timing? Too advanced or too retardedone of the reasons
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All the other plugs looked fine..looked like the 2 posted in the pics color wise.. Went and got NGK plugs. Will check timing today.. Where should the timing be?
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I have no clue how Much advance I have built into the distributor... The previous owner couldn't tell me much about the motor... But I think he knew more than he was wanting to tell me... If I can get this motor to run for the summer I will rebuild it over the winter. I have a couple spark plugs threads on the verge of being stripped so I'm cautious of how many times I take out and replace the plugs
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Carb filling with gas? U mean the boosters are leaking fuel at idle?. Thats a float level or poop holding the needle n seat open issue..
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Once it starts and the idle starts to come down the front bowls on the carb starts to fill up with gas and then does out.. I don't know crap about carbs...but that's least of my worries...ya ur needle n seat probably has shit in it...but ur right, thats the least of ur worries... sorry brother...
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I will get this bastard figured out...just extremely frustrated right now..
Is there a stamping on the carb that say is what size it is?
I would pull the heads but I have no idea what the torque sequence is and I know there is a special sequence..
Here are a couple pics of the carb
And the head casting numbers
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Those are 78-90 peanut port truck heads. I even have an extra set right here that I could donate to the cause. Most performance people can't give those away. You should be able to find a fresh set cheap, if need be. I bet you could even find a complete, good running, engine at Pick-a-Part.
Right now performance is furthest from my mind... Just want to get this damn thing running so I can go enjoy it in the lake.. I'm frustrated and the wife is already on my ass because it's costing money she doesn't want to spend...im afraid to call my family mechanic and ask how much it would cost to have the threads for the spark plugs to be repaired... If I can get those repaired it would be a great deal off my shoulders and I can concentrate on everything elseif u cant do it yourself. Most good repair shops can... its more of a common problem then ud think.. timesert sells a kit for it..
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Here is the carb numbers
I've re tapped threads many times but nothing that was under pressure like the spark plugs are...
Don't be scared! No balls, No glory.im pretty sure you told me the same thing about my head stud!!! Lol worked out bitchin!! O0
Are there stampings on the cam to tell its specs?
Don't pull them just take your time. Go on YouTube to see how to do it!!! I'm sure there is a video of it. There is no sense in pulling them to fix just The threads.
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Yah! Let's get you on the water. See what you have,for a motor. And the big one not have the wife up your ass. Lol we've all been there!!!
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Sure !!! if you go with me!!!
You tell me! I'm always up for road trips. You'll have to ask my wife tho!!!
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Good!!! Now on the carb get yourself a couple of those white terry towels and knock out the carb!!! Use a nice big flat surface to do the carb!!!
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I have a whole bag of the terry cloth rags from Costco ... I already have a spot set up in my garage to work in the carb...
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Just because your luck seems to suck... A couple pieces of duct tape over the carb. holes on the manifold while the carburetor is off... don't want a Doe Doe bird dropping a walnut in there or somethin'... ;)
GT
By golly gee i think I may have found my carb problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hafaW1uLE-4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hafaW1uLE-4)
Ok so I pulled the fuel bowls off and instantly found one of the orange things that assist the float in the rear bowl gone... Front bowl had it but the rear did not. The gaskets looked like they had been replaced recently... So I was careful not to damage them... Took Carmen cleaner and sprayed every hole I could see. I did some small particles get sprayed out... Then I took the screw out of the top of the rear fuel bowl sprayed it out and saw no particles of any kind but I did spray everything out before I put it all back together... The I did the same with the front fuel bowl and the needle under that screw in the needle there was a small piece of rubber that was keeping it from closing fully... At it was the front bowls in the carb where the butterfly is that was filling up with fuel...
I do have one question... The metal piece that my finger is on holds the butterfly open(I believe it's the choke) is the butterfly supposed to be one all the time? If not how is it activated? I have a Mr Gasket air scoop that has butterfly's that open when I hit the throttle...I assume that the choke was stuck open because of the air scoop but please correct me if I'm wrong
Pics
Front fuel bowl
Rear fuel bowl
Front needle I found the rubber
Piece of metal I'm asking about for the butterfly's
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I do have one question... The metal piece that my finger is on holds the butterfly open(I believe it's the choke) is the butterfly supposed to be one all the time? If not how is it activated? I have a Mr Gasket air scoop that has butterfly's that open when I hit the throttle...I assume that the choke was stuck open because of the air scoop but please correct me if I'm wrong
Pics
Front fuel bowl
Rear fuel bowl
Front needle I found the rubber
Piece of metal I'm asking about for the butterfly's
That looks like someone's bassackword attempt at a mechanical choke. It's all bent up and I can't imagine it is very affective. I honestly don't believe a choke is needed because girls don't wear bikinis anywhere it is cold engine to need one. If the girls where you boat are members of the Polar Bear club, I might have the parts for an electric choke from the last carb I took great care in milling the choke shroud off. I can check my inventory of obsolete carburetor parts if you are interested.
That is called a mechanical choke and the rod should be adjusted so the very top butterfly is 100% open. You don't need a choke on a jet boat, a couple shots with the throttle when you fire it off and you're fine...
GT
I'll go out and start it tomorrow. To see if it idles/ runs.. Didn't want to piss off my neighbors at 9pm.
ROFL... If i had to fire it up at 2am I would
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Talk about an impressive response time!?. The truth.
An undocumented worker tried to cut a hole in my roof to break in. Cops don't show!
Multiple shots fired down the street. Cops don't show!
I fired my boat inside my shop at around 11pm. The zoomies blew the insulation off the 16' ceiling so I shut down quick. The cops were here before we stopped laughing.
HOLY $HIT IT IDLES... Had to replace the seat and needle for the float... Now i just need to time it... It purrs at 1k Rpms at about 4-6 BTDC but I read you have to take the RPMS up above 2500..and re time it there too... am I wrong
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No you set it where it works for that motor . Not all motors are the same. If it runs good leave it till you get it in the water . You may have to adj in the water.
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Proper boating etiquette would require waiting until 2am to test fire. ;-)
It may not have been 2am but it was 9:15 and my neighbors came running to see what the noise was... Guess they've never heard a straight piped 454 before... They have now
One more thing...
Don't ever let anyone tell you that the two best days of a boat owner's life is the day you buy it and the day you sell it.
Glad you had a positive outcome.
I'm glad I had you all to helpmeet out and didn't bash me too hard for all the stupid questions
Don't ever be afraid to ask.
One thing that I have been stewing over that has me concerned: you said the carb filled up with fuel? Where did the fuel go? Down the intake? You might consider changing the oil.
Cheers,
Joe