Hey guys, finally got a bunch of the other stuff done. ignition wired, etc.

When i redid all of my line, i hated the way the water inlet went into the motor by two -8 90's and a T that sat in the bilge, - so i fabbed up a nifty log using two 90's and a peice of aluminum with a -8 nipple on the top to feed both inlets on the front of the motor from the jet pump.

anyways - if i recall - a year ago, when i had the old combo running on the hose, the water would come out at maybe 100-110 deg, warm to the touch - now with this new setup, when the motor on water - intake gate valve wide open, it's spitting out the back but in the 140-150 range by temp of meat thermometer.. too hot?

with the crossover made, am i somehow impeding the flow a little bit, or am i just being too cautious? need to find my IR temp gun.

Mine runs/holds 160 all day long. Sounds good to go to me but I use an engine thermometer, not a meat thermometer.............now that gives me another Idea!

Ray

I'm running ball valves in the inlets and outlets, both wide open, and a pressure releif valve on the intake sided for backup that to my knowledge has never tripped. Ball valve before the header T is about 1/4 closed though, seemed awful wet and was wet at idle. Could be I just wanted to make more noise too.........

From what Tom told me at JBP, and others on here, the pressure is only in the 15psi range from the jet drive anyway, so I doubt that's the problem. I run a valve on the inlet side only to limit water to the engine and force more to the pump when I run it on the hose (about 65 psi on my hose wide open).

For the record, no, lol, 140-150 is not too hot. Honestly, the closer you can get the thing to the 195 it ran in the car, the better! Less wear and tear on the engine that way! But by partially closing the intake valve you have, you will increase temp you see some, but you also are limiting flow to and through the engine which could cause hot spots and areas not receiving enough, or lord forbid, ANY water.

Best way, if you want to increase temp is to add in a pressure releif valve setup on the intake side, then start closing the outlet side a little bit at a time. This way you can kinda force the water to stay in the engine longer, and if pressure becomes an issue, it'll pop the releif valve before it blows an intake or head gasket.

Ray

Thats a good thing, and EXACTLY what it's supposed to do. Prolly need a new ball and spring in mine since I had to close up my valve a bit. I wouldn't worry about where your at. Most of us run around 140-150 or so, I have to since I run mine on this horrible oxygenated shit we call gasoline here in Arizona, and fairly high compression. Lower temps keeps the detonation gremlin at bay (So far). The couple times I've run it on Av or race gas, closed up the outlet side about 1/8 to 1/4, temp went up to 180 or so, and ran like a sombitch!

Ray

Hear you on the wonderful gas we have here in AZ, i usually run a half/half AV/91. The bassett ball/spring is $9 shipped if i recall. the guy that had it before me had a non-stainless one in there from ace.. go figure it was broken in half, couple that with decent cam, and no rev limiter.. the main/rod bearings werent pretty.

now i just gotta wait for UPS to deliver me the lower gaskets for the tunnel ram, a new arm for the butterflys and the rod for the carbs, that and order me some bilge pumps.