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osbo68

  • Karma: +0/-0
won't start when hot
« on: August 01, 2009, 08:21:39 AM »
ok here is the deal... When she is hot she won't start sometimes.. after alot of head ache :banghead: and a little trouble shooting with the multimeter my dad and me have found i'm only getting about 8-9 volts at the coil in the start mode... Once she is running it drops down to 6 like it's supposed to.. So I'm assuming the resister is still good... I have made a little jumper wire with som clips and when she won't start i just hook it from the coil + plus side to the 12 volt side on the resister and she will fire right up.. So am I looking for a loose wire????? Which I can't find or is it something mechanical???? My dad swears up and down it is a loose wire.. Im just not sure about that though... Only happens when it is hot..

Oh and I could be wrong about the 6v at run and 8-9 at start.. it could be the other way around.. But it is still wrong I should have a full12v on the start circuit....    I have a mallory unilite dizzy with an Accel coil... 76' nordic with a 460
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1976 18'3" Nordic Bubble Deck.. Big 460 Oval power..

SLCKREG

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: won't start when hot
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2009, 08:27:54 AM »
Soooo you're saying the starter turns it over fine......she just doesn't want to light?? If you're wondering about spark ,pull a plug(or spare one) and lay it on your valve cover(pluged in of course). Or just keep the motor running :o J/k brotha good luck.
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IRRebel

  • Karma: +16/-0
Re: won't start when hot
« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2009, 08:37:37 AM »
Yeah, should be 12 volt when cranking, 8-9 when running. Sounds like some crossed wires, shorts, broken wires, not necessarily a loose one! Not sure a ballast resistor is even necessary on the Unilite, though. I'm running it with a Hyfire 6AL and ProCoil with no resistor, but might be because of the hyfire. Don't remember, but one manual or the other said the resistor wasn't necessary so it went in the trash (Hate those things). Check the website for directions and wiring instructions.

Ray
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"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways totally worn out shouting 'Holy Shit what a ride!"---Crewcheif22 AKA Keith

Nordie

  • Karma: +13/-0
Re: won't start when hot
« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2009, 08:56:09 AM »
Unilite is a dual point system and does require a ballast resistor had one in my rayson craft...for a little over 100 bucks you could convert and eliminate points and ballast resistor all together...you know simplify things a bit...but as far as fixing your low voltage problem sounds like a wiring issue to me...
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If im not posting..I'm pooping!

crewchief22

  • Karma: +66/-0
Re: won't start when hot
« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2009, 09:25:44 AM »
Unilite is a dual point system  and does require a ballast resistor had one in my rayson craft...for a little over 100 bucks you could convert and eliminate points and ballast resistor all together...you know simplify things a bit...but as far as fixing your low voltage problem sounds like a wiring issue to me...

Unilite is not a dual point.  It has a light and a breaker wheel used as a trigger.

Personally I prefer a magnetic trigger ;D

It sound like you have a breakdown in the wiring.  It could be a poor connection, but you need to be looking at the wires themselves also.
  • Boat #1: '77 Hondo Pantera GT Jet
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"Racing is life!  Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting"    Steve McQueen

The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

osbo68

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: won't start when hot
« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2009, 10:54:48 AM »
As far as the unilite goes it was in it when i got it... And hey it beats points I can say that much for it.... :D As far as spark goes kreg I held the boot with a pair of rubber gripped pliers... good spark at run bad spark at start... that led us to finding the low voltage... And so it appears the general consensus is sometype of wiring issue.. I hate it when the pa is right.. at least on the right track anyways... Dammit when will I grow up and out think him for once...lol.....  Well I guess I'll have to check into the harrness soon... Thx guys
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1976 18'3" Nordic Bubble Deck.. Big 460 Oval power..

GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: won't start when hot
« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2009, 11:15:24 AM »
It sounds to me like you have two resistors inline of eachother.

Waht is the voltage of the coil with just the key on? it should be below 10V, but above 8V. On some wire harnesses I have seen resistor wire used, mostly have seen it on Marine Power engines and Commanders, but I suppose others have used it.

Another question, do you have a 12V boost wire comeing off of the starter solenoid?, If not, it needs to be added.... :thumbup:

Good luck!

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

electrowoman

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: won't start when hot
« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2009, 06:58:54 PM »
With the motor off and the + wire off the coil use your volt meter to read the voltage with the switch in the start and run poss to see if there IS a change.

 Back track from point to point till you find the voltage drop with the switch in the crank possition.  You should have 12 volts in crank if it's wired right.

I'm wondering about the switch it's self if it used to start and run ok before.

Good luck and keep it afloat  :)

Don't forget to pull the starter relay wire so she doesn't crank.....

« Last Edit: August 01, 2009, 08:19:45 PM by electrowoman »
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