SoCal Jet Boats
Classifieds => Engines / Engine Parts For Sale => Topic started by: bubba15 on January 11, 2017, 07:35:46 PM
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Want to know what type of oil you guys might be running in a stock 454 motor. Just got my engine running after the starter issue from last week and after buying the boat. The oil in there currently is a bit milky looking, like it could be some water in there. When I went to fire it up, it was smoking out of the valve cover breather cap, and a bit out of the exhaust too. Guessing this could be a little blow-by from the piston. What oil, if any, would eliminate this problem and provide good lubrication.
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If a flat tappet (non roller) cam, I would try to use a 15w40 with ZDDP in the 1200-1400ppm neighborhood.
Shell Rotella T, Chevron Delo 400, etc.
Unless your independently wealthy, then use Joe Gibbs or Amsoil Racing oil.
GT
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If a flat tappet (non roller) cam, I would try to use a 15w40 with ZDDP in the 1200-1400ppm neighborhood.
Shell Rotella T, Chevron Delo 400, etc.
Unless your independently wealthy, then use Joe Gibbs or Amsoil Racing oil.
GT
8 bucks a quart... hardly costly.
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8 bucks a quart... hardly costly.
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Depends on how often "the oil is a little milky"...
Knowhatamean?
GT
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I buy the 2.5 gallon Delo 400 for $22.
That's $2.20 a quart...
Just for perspective.
But I do agree with you.
GT
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Oil was milky when I bought it. This will be the first oil change before I take it out and run it. If the oil returns to its milky color, I'll know something else is up, maybe some water leaking into the sump. But as far as the smoking exhaust, that could be worn out piston rings or cylinder wear?
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Oil was milky when I bought it. This will be the first oil change before I take it out and run it. If the oil returns to its milky color, I'll know something else is up, maybe some water leaking into the sump. But as far as the smoking exhaust, that could be worn out piston rings or cylinder wear?
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As much as I hate to say it. Watery oil can promote rust. Rust can damage the cylinder wall.
I personally would start with a compression and a leak down test before running it to get a baseline.
Just an opinion.
GT
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I buy the 2.5 gallon Delo 400 for $22.
That's $2.20 a quart...
Just for perspective.
But I do agree with you.
GT
I run valvoline vr1 50wt. I have just a hydraulic cam. This stuff sounds like a pretty good deal. Might consider it for the next oil change.
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I run valvoline vr1 50wt. I have just a hydraulic cam. This stuff sounds like a pretty good deal. Might consider it for the next oil change.
I get it from a Chevron wholesaler in town. Retail is only $32. ($3.20 a quart). Look on the Internet for wholesalers if you have a business license or a contractors license they will likely give you at least jobber.
I'm a cheap ass when it comes right down to it. Lol
GT
Perfect for breaking stuff in and troubleshooting reversion issues.
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On the older boat we run the Vr-1 (20w-50) and the cheapest retail place I find it is O'reilly, they always have it on sale for $4.99 a quart. That's cheaper than most places if you need it right away. And on the newer boat, Indmar suggests Pennzoil Marine 15w30 so, I just stick to that and I always get it from Amazon. They usually have a 2 gallon deal for like $44. Free shipping.
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On the older boat we run the Vr-1 (20w-50) and the cheapest retail place I find it is O'reilly, they always have it on sale for $4.99 a quart. That's cheaper than most places if you need it right away. And on the newer boat, Indmar suggests Pennzoil Marine 15w30 so, I just stick to that and I always get it from Amazon. They usually have a 2 gallon deal for like $44. Free shipping.
Don't take this the wrong way, but I wouldn't run Penzoil in a lawn mower that I didn't own.
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GT is correct! have you ever pulled a motor apart that used penzoil youd never use that oil again . it looks like tar!!!
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GT is correct! have you ever pulled a motor apart that used penzoil youd never use that oil again . it looks like tar!!!
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Ya know, Ive always taken GTs advice....... I guess Ive never asked him about oil :banghead: And not to say I don't believe what you are saying, but when I usually drain it, its pretty clean still and last time the valve covers were off it was super clean inside. Now mind you, its a cruiser that spends its life around 3800 rpm and its only got 130 hours on it since 2004 lol. I have no problem making a switch though. Just stuck with it out of habit since Indmar told me to run it. Thank for the advice though, both of you.
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Depends on how often "the oil is a little milky"...
Knowhatamean?
GT
If it's milky... then fix the milkification situation... continuing to run milky oil, even if you change it every trip, will not be so cool on the bearings. Water makes a poor engine lubricant. Then run good shit.👍🏻
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If it's milky... then fix the milkification situation... continuing to run milky oil, even if you change it every trip, will not be so cool on the bearings. Water makes a poor engine lubricant. Then run good shit.👍🏻
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Totally agree.
That being said, it would be a good idea to ensure you're not pouring $80 worth of oil in a potentially hurt engine. That was the entire premise of the comment.
Low use cruisers and weekend boats that get used five or six times a year, run the correct but inexpensive stuff. There's no real reason to run high dollar, ultimate oil in something that is going to turn 4,000 rpms for five or six hours a year.
If you run balls out often, or expect to use it every weekend, all in on the oil budget.
I've been known to dose up some store brand garbage with some ZDDP additive and some Lucas and run the shit out of a fresh motor. I feel they "cut in" better. Could just be the feeling of saving $50 or $60.
Lol
GT