SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Fabrication => Topic started by: Flusher on December 14, 2014, 03:46:26 PM
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Looks like some of you are into some hard core rock crawlers. I am looking for suggestions for steering on my ’96 Grand Cherokee. It is currently sitting on a Rubicon Express long arm suspension with about 8-inches of lift at the spring. The front axle is a high-pinion king pin Dana 60 from a SRW ’79 F-350. The steering box is a 4-bolt YJ that has been drilled for hydraulic ram assist steering.
My question pertains to: I originally intended to use a Currie Enterprises Correctlync heavy-duty tie rod but my ZJ has outgrown the stock style Jeep stuff and the Correctlync has been reallocated to my XJ. I have been thinking about using a full-hydraulic steering double acting \ double rod hydraulic cylinder as the drag link with a heavy-duty tie rod, all utilizing F-350 (or larger) tie rod ends
I am looking for some hard core ideas with minimal fabrication (if possible). I just want this project concluded as quickly and easily as possibly without skimping.
Lastly, does anybody in the 4WD world ever consider or alter Ackermann? One thing I have noticed is, the tires scrub a lot when turning. Wanting to convert to hi-steer arms, this would be a good time to adjust that, but I simply don’t have the time to develop this on my own in addition to design work and machining of everything.
Thanks in advance,
Joe
P.S. Sorry I don’t have any cool pics to share right now, it is buried in the back of my shop after the move.
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hey man,
in regards to ackermann... are you asking how get around scrubbing of the tires while turning?
from what ive read, 4wd applications, benefit from having some sort of differential between front/rear axles. reason being, in a turn, front wheels spin at different rates than rears do as each wheel is in its own radius in a turn therefore spins faster or slower than other wheels. perhaps thats why its not recommended to drive on pavement in 4wd. without the diff, scrubbing of the wheels happen. some 4runners have this diff between front/rear...and an option to lock it when offroad. i could be babbling stuff you already know....disregard if so....
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There's a lot of steering upgrades for the jeep just one I don't recommend is th
The one from rugged rig I have it and don't like it especially for street use. I don't recommend full hydraulic if you plan on driving it on the street do to its not dot approved and don't want any cops nailling you on that I would do custom or one off the shelf with hydraulic assist just my .2
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My mall crawling skills are good enough that I can still articulate the steepest of parking curbs in 2ND.
I did notice the scrubbing more while negotiating parking lots during tight turns. With less traction in the dirt, it's less noticeable but I can't believe it isn't hurting off road traction. I just don't think the stock geometry is correct. Guess it is the road racer in me that worries about scrubbing of speed in a rock crawler, but I'm also thinking of tire wear.
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There's a lot of steering upgrades for the jeep just one I don't recommend is th
The one from rugged rig I have it and don't like it especially for street use. I don't recommend full hydraulic if you plan on driving it on the street do to its not dot approved and don't want any cops nailling you on that I would do custom or one off the shelf with hydraulic assist just my .2
I was thinking of in addition to the tie rod from the steering box to the knuckle, utilizing a full-hydraulic steering cylinder to connect the two knuckles together instead of using a drag link. That way, I would have both mechanical and hydraulic steering
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ok...can you switch between 2wd and 4wd? and if so....do you still notice the scrubbing in 2wd?
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If your just worried about the tires rubbing when you turn you can UN-bolt the steering stop and add some washers to it doesn't rub but you way loose a little bit of sharp turning radius . That what I did in my xj
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ok...can you switch between 2wd and 4wd? and if so....do you still notice the scrubbing in 2wd?
It was brutal in 4WD, even with an open diff D30. I haven't driven it with the new configuration yet. The D60 has locking hubs where the D30 didn't. I have a Sure Grip diff that I really want to install in the front D60 combined with a Detroit Locker in the rear 14-bolt.
I noticed the same thing while driving my Suburban. It manifests itself in the need for slightly more application of throttle, while at full steering lock compared to when the wheels are straight, to achieve the same speed, albeit a very low speed. Pushing it around my shop is even more noticeable.
Thank you for all the replies.
Cheers,
Joe
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If your just worried about the tires rubbing when you turn you can UN-bolt the steering stop and add some washers to it doesn't rub but you way loose a little bit of sharp turning radius . That what I did in my xj
The tires don't rub the body or suspension, but they leave marks on the driveway.
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hmm...sounds like the product of manufactures attempting to boast about having the tightest turn radius.....wheels turned too far.
i can especially see that in a suburban being a longer vehicle with a longer wheel base....and it being an inconvenience to make a U turn into a 3 point turn.
if that isnt the case....i can see where your interests are with ackermann mods....hmm....
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Hey Joe! Pm me your # I can get you in touch with my buddy that works for rebel offroad he has been doing custom fab work for a long time. He can tell ya would work for ya!
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