SoCal Jet Boats

Tech Talk => Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair => Topic started by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 06, 2007, 04:12:12 PM

Title: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 06, 2007, 04:12:12 PM
Here is a pic before

Here are some yeserday

One coat of resin went on after painting stingers and is sanded waiting on the sun.


Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ralph Brunt on February 06, 2007, 04:22:50 PM
DAMMMMMM-IT Jim you do nice work why dont you move closer to me so you can work on my boat ;)
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Brad @ SCJB on February 06, 2007, 04:25:05 PM
what did you use to paint the stringers? just ordinary rattle can paint? that really cleans it up
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 06, 2007, 08:00:32 PM
what did you use to paint the stringers? just ordinary rattle can paint? that really cleans it up

I used Duplicolor rattle can. The stuff does not get efected by the resin, being I resin over the paint.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 06, 2007, 08:20:15 PM
Getting proper level to set the intake;

Intake set in with Sea-Goin Poxy Puty;

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: hotrod56cars on February 06, 2007, 09:19:32 PM
I think I already know why, but rather than looking stupid...

Why did you paint the stringers?
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 06, 2007, 09:28:31 PM
I had to do a lot of repair on the stringers, and I also wanted them to look different, contrast than the rest of the hull. They also looked like crap.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: hotrod56cars on February 06, 2007, 09:44:04 PM
That's what I thought.  ;D
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: beerjet on February 06, 2007, 10:45:37 PM
How hard would it be to put full length strigers in a boat . A friend of mine did it . I was just thinkin I'll leave it to a profesional.

-beerjet-
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 06, 2007, 10:53:51 PM
Most boats don't get their strength from the stringers. The full stingers are actually better for mounting things to. As far as true strength, it is a combonation of everything. The boat that you see about is very week. It has tons of cracks in the gell and the thick glass shows threw the gell. As far as what I have done to this boat it has made it stronger but I bet that Saguaro is 10 times the boat as this POS.
I am going to add some kickers to mine in line and tied into the stringers (Engine Box) for mounting my seats.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Brad @ SCJB on February 06, 2007, 11:10:34 PM
what? no splatter paint?!?

I just dont understand why most boat manufacturer do that 80's splatter paint in the engine bay.........i was at the boat show and couldnt believe that every new boat had it....didnt matter if it was a $40k or $140k boat....they all had that same tacky engine bay that looked like the 80's threw up in it.

whats next? the return of the 90's day glow?
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: hotrod56cars on February 06, 2007, 11:32:24 PM
Not that I know WTF I am talking about...

The length of the stringers has to have some effect of the strength of the hull. Every single manufacturer can't be lieing. I know my two Rogers hulls have different max. HP ratings and the only difference is one foot hull length and full length stringers vs. 3/4 length stringers. The stringer length has to change the "cattey-corner" (technical term  :D ) strength/flex of the hull.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 06, 2007, 11:42:12 PM
Actually this boat had the worst I have seen, tortional flex. Once I repaird the bullshit bulkhead panel and turned it into a rib it fixed the tortional twisties. You could pick up the right rear 4" and it would flex 5"at the bulkhead. I have no idea what I am talking about, being I used to build real boat out of wood like the Ark that Noah had. By the way stringers tie the ribs together and plastc (glass) boats in general don't have them. Except for the top boat builders of the time.

Here are some pics of the intake install and spoon or bubble;

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: hotrod56cars on February 06, 2007, 11:45:53 PM
Yeah... uh... what was it again... oh yeah... tortional flex... uh huh, that's what I said... we got to stop with the technical terms otherwise no one will know what we're talking about.  8)
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 08, 2007, 06:34:17 PM
I have about 2 coats of Sea Goin Poxy Puty to do to get the entry smooth.

More pics to fallow;
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Brad @ SCJB on February 08, 2007, 07:14:58 PM
what did you use to paint your pump? looks brandy new!

keep those pics coming!
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 08, 2007, 10:59:44 PM
what did you use to paint your pump? looks brandy new!

keep those pics coming!

I used to use the Duplicolor white engine paint, really good stuff but you have a real long layover between coats (looks & Durable like powder coat). I have been using the Pure/Linen White Duplicolor rattle can paint. I can't wait to get a permit for spraying  paint. I use it on all the pumps I do.

Here are more pics of the intake install and spoon or bubble;

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 09, 2007, 05:17:24 PM
Well I am off to pick up some flat black paint.

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Brad @ SCJB on February 09, 2007, 05:24:14 PM
i always wondered....when people do blueprinting on the bottom of their boat....why do they use flat black?

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 09, 2007, 06:56:14 PM
Usually the black color that you see is speed coat, a graphit spray. I am using it ,Flat Black, to help find highs and lows.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 09, 2007, 09:53:47 PM
Black paint;

Black paint working;


Ready for speedcoat;

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on February 10, 2007, 02:04:14 PM
Intake entry done !

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Brad @ SCJB on February 10, 2007, 04:13:15 PM
looks good jim!
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on March 17, 2007, 01:37:41 AM
Stringer washers & new stainless 3/8" allen bolts
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on March 17, 2007, 01:41:19 AM
More

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on March 17, 2007, 01:45:18 AM
Pull the engine again !!!

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 05:41:14 PM
those motor mounts are sweet. look nothing like mine.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ralph Brunt on April 12, 2007, 06:51:52 PM
Pull the engine again !!!

(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hotboatpics.com%2Fpics%2Fdata%2F500%2F16883Pict1918-med.jpg&hash=6aa252ba5da599d706d81006c5e851b35d3633c8)
look here bow tie boy, you post another pic of that, :P oh well you get it
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: hotrod56cars on April 12, 2007, 07:16:01 PM
those motor mounts are sweet. look nothing like mine.

I think yours might be homemade, ?   ???
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 07:41:01 PM
ya pretty sure they are. check my other post to see pics. where do i get a set of nice ones. this might be a factor in my vibration issue.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 07:44:53 PM
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/vr4tony/pictures050small.jpg

ok i will bring the pic here. as you can see i have two post type motor mounts that mount to the side of the motor and that is it. they bell housing mates up the the jet drive to hold the back in place. this seemed not right to me when i was putting it back together. but this is my first boat and i did not know about this page. i wish i would have i probably would have done some things differently. any ideas would be great to hear.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: hotrod56cars on April 12, 2007, 08:09:30 PM
Glenwood Marine is still in business, new mounts. http://www.glenwoodmarine.com/

eBay for used mounts.

Guardian Marine and Glenwood Marine mounts are the same. Nicson Marine engine mounts are very similar but a little different. There's several others out there (now defunct, I think). There's a set of mounts that you commented earlier on in a different thread that you liked, they looked like Glenwood type mounts. The mounts on my Cheby are Guardian.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 08:24:47 PM
that is what i am looking for. i like the cast aluminum mounts with the rubber mounts. the bad thing is that i would have to cut apart my new floor to get them installed. i think i am going to change the ujoint first and if that does not cut it this is the way i will go.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: hotrod56cars on April 12, 2007, 08:32:39 PM
I tried to find the pic I saw of your stringer's/floor, I couldn't find it. You shouldn't have to cut anything, the front mount is about 1 1/4" thick, it's flat, and "sticks out" less than the pulley/altenator.

I looked at a Tahiti one time to buy and it had a Panther pump also. It's engine mounts looked homemade as well. Now I'm wondering if Panther engine mounts are supposed to look that way...   ???
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: hotrod56cars on April 12, 2007, 08:34:04 PM
that is what i am looking for. i like the cast aluminum mounts with the rubber mounts. the bad thing is that i would have to cut apart my new floor to get them installed. i think i am going to change the ujoint first and if that does not cut it this is the way i will go.

Those cast aluminum mounts don't use any rubber.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 08:36:02 PM
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi15.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa399%2Fvr4tony%2Fpictures050small.jpg&hash=e11739af257d8cbdc3a3e67c45c7df8b14febfe8)

here is a look at it those two posts are the only thing that actually hold the motor in place. the rear bell housing sits against the jet drive and that is it. does not seem right to me
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: h2oicon on April 12, 2007, 08:41:59 PM
aqua man, is that a flyin chev or ford in the pics for motor mounts
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 08:47:59 PM
chevy 454
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: fast ass ford on April 12, 2007, 08:58:37 PM
its right my freinds kona has the same mounts and it works fine . im always in blythe  mayflower should hook up and party  ;D
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 09:02:01 PM
that would be sweet. our trailer is in macintry park or how ever you spell it. it is right off intake road by then about 7 miles down on the left.

we are going again in about 3 weeks.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: fast ass ford on April 12, 2007, 09:05:32 PM
been their place rocks will be there memorial from the 19 to the 28th  if your going will meet and DRINK always go to blythe nowhere else  >:D
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: hotrod56cars on April 12, 2007, 09:08:49 PM
It doesn't look like you'd need to cut your floor at all for those cast aluminum mounts. But if other people are using the mounts similar to yours without any problems...
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 09:10:56 PM
i will be there we can meet at the goose flats or what ever that little cove is called. or meet at macintire i am kind of new to the area down there but we bought a trailer and the boat stays there. maybe you can help me with my vibration problem. we have about 5 trailers there within the family. have you ever seen tyler out there in the boat called the MOODY BLUE?? he is my neighbor and in the fam..haha

hope to see you out there.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 09:13:58 PM
It doesn't look like you'd need to cut your floor at all for those cast aluminum mounts. But if other people are using the mounts similar to yours without any problems...

ya if these mounts are fine that would be great. but like i said this is my first boat and everything is good except my vibration problem. i am not going to be able to get to the boat for about 3 weeks so i am trying to get all the info i can before i start shotguning the problem..
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: fast ass ford on April 12, 2007, 09:22:34 PM
if tyler runs a cp then yes if not then no  ???  ill ask  my buddy if his has any vibes and let u know  and would be more than  happy to help on your boat as long as the BEER is flowing  ;D we usaully ? hang out and the second sand bar above mayflower its where evrybody go to race  but ill go anywhere to party
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 09:25:15 PM
have you seen the name of my boat.haha the beer is always flowing. tyler floats a schiada with a twin turbo 460 in the back. it is a sweet boat.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: fast ass ford on April 12, 2007, 09:27:09 PM
 :D oops nope havent seen it yet  but if it has a ford then it hauls ASS >:D
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 09:29:22 PM
ya it hauls ass last season we had it up around 100mph when we floated an exhaust valve and sent it thru the motor.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: fast ass ford on April 12, 2007, 09:33:10 PM
ouch that blows  litteraly  :-X
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: AQUAHOLIC on April 12, 2007, 09:42:22 PM
ya i almost bought the boat off him since he blew the motor he was going to give me a great deal. he is done with the speed he wants a nice hallet. so the moody blue is for sale if anyone is interested. it is probably one of the nicest boats on the river.. i will post some pics later.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: fast ass ford on April 12, 2007, 09:47:03 PM
tell him dont sell the schiada its better than a hallet but to each his own do u know how much and is it still blown or is it fixed and is he willing to seperate ?
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: old rigger on April 19, 2007, 08:42:02 AM
It doesn't look like you'd need to cut your floor at all for those cast aluminum mounts. But if other people are using the mounts similar to yours without any problems...

He will have to cut the floor away if he switches to the glenwood style mounts. There's a floor that that runs from the lifting strake and butts to the stringer. That will have to be removed, or an acess hole cut into it, to have access to the bolts holding the feet in. Normally this area has the floor on top of the stiringer, or none at all. Never to the center of the stringer. Kinda strange.  :)


(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi15.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa399%2Fvr4tony%2Fpictures050small.jpg&hash=e11739af257d8cbdc3a3e67c45c7df8b14febfe8)
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Brad @ SCJB on April 19, 2007, 09:46:34 AM
looks to me that floor was put in after the fact without much planning involved. the outside of the strings arent even accessable thus rendering them useless to mount (bolt) anything to them.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: old rigger on April 19, 2007, 10:18:22 AM
bingo

Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on September 07, 2007, 12:40:44 AM
These are some pics of placing the engine to get proper driveshaft angle before drilling. The small blocks and plywood give a flat surface for the engine to sit on and help creat the proper clearance.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on September 07, 2007, 12:50:13 AM
You can see that the pan is very close to the intake, about 7/16". The problem was the intake had to be set abit high to be flush with the keel.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on September 07, 2007, 12:54:42 AM
Engine removed again so I could drill the intake for the through bolts for the loader.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: GAWnCA on September 07, 2007, 04:53:45 AM
Engine removed again so I could drill the intake for the through bolts for the loader.

Nice photos and it'll help me when I do the repairs while my engine is getting rebuilt.  My bolts going through the stringers are carriage bolt that have been sucked up so far that they are almost buried in the wood.  Those will get pulled, plugged and glassed over.  Then I'll put aluminum backing plates so this won't happen again.

Do you have any good suggestions as to how to make sure I get any oil removed from the wood without replacing the stringers before I glass them in?   Nice work!  Greg
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: The Chaz on September 07, 2007, 10:45:55 AM
They make stringer washers to keep the bolts from getting "sucked in" I think you can even get powder coated ones to add to bling factor O0
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: GAWnCA on September 07, 2007, 11:27:11 AM
They make stringer washers to keep the bolts from getting "sucked in" I think you can even get powder coated ones to add to bling factor O0

Too bad the previous owner didn't use some sort of washer but not one on the stringers.  So now I get to deal with making it right.  What else is new.  :)
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: beerjet on September 07, 2007, 02:28:26 PM
Nice photos and it'll help me when I do the repairs while my engine is getting rebuilt.  My bolts going through the stringers are carriage bolt that have been sucked up so far that they are almost buried in the wood.  Those will get pulled, plugged and glassed over.  Then I'll put aluminum backing plates so this won't happen again.

Do you have any good suggestions as to how to make sure I get any oil removed from the wood without replacing the stringers before I glass them in?   Nice work!  Greg
In my opinion the best way to fix your problem would be to get some flat 1/4" thick by 4" wide and span it the length of the motor + maybe 4" past each side . Drill it and then use the stringer washers . Similar to a rail kit . It disributes the weight of the motor across a larger span on the stringer . Alot of times people fix shit with a band aid and here we are fixing a band aid . This all only assuming your stringers aren't rotten on the inside .

Great thread too Jim . Very informative and a great lesson . ;)

-beerjet-
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: GAWnCA on September 07, 2007, 03:40:05 PM
Quote from: beerjet
In my opinion the best way to fix your problem would be to get some flat 1/4" thick by 4" wide and span it the length of the motor + maybe 4" past each side . Drill it and then use the stringer washers . Similar to a rail kit . It disributes the weight of the motor across a larger span on the stringer . Alot of times people fix shit with a band aid and here we are fixing a band aid . This all only assuming your stringers aren't rotten on the inside .

Great thread too Jim . Very informative and a great lesson . ;)

-beerjet-

Well, I can go get some 1/4" x 4" x 8' aluminum plate and that will give the 3' needed to span the motor mounts plus 4" in each end.  I'll post some motor mount photos in a few minutes.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: GAWnCA on September 07, 2007, 04:00:52 PM
Motor mount stringer condition:

(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fgregaw.home.comcast.net%2Fmotor_mounts_001ss.jpg&hash=104341ec4dbc60bb12264ec06f333069fac32376)
Rear mount shows a little wood damage but I think to get through the rest of this summer, the 1/4" plate, as suggested above should give enough support for the few more runs I might make.

(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fgregaw.home.comcast.net%2Fmotor_mounts_002ss.jpg&hash=d4a2848f30c56944c21116bcf58216c6cf906eb0)
Front mount stringer condition looks good.

I wonder if that dry rot repair stuff would help out.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on September 07, 2007, 06:31:11 PM
I bet that is a factory install on the carriage bolts. I have seen that quite a few times.

The best way to handle this is to, drill out the rotted wood and install a hard wood dowel. It is important to make sure you do not have any black or soft wood remaining after drilling. You will then grind out a divet that is aproximatly 1/2" - 3/4" larger than the dowel hole. This way you can lay two layers of fiber glass cloth to help secure the repair. Now to install the dowels you will want to make up some resin and completely saturate the dowel and install, you should have to tap the dowel in with a hammer. Now the new engine mount bolts need to have a long shoulder that extendes the width of the stringer and the foot of the mount with the stringer washer in place. This way the slight movement of the engine does not cause a sawing action from the threads, causing oval holes. Bergeron Marine has some very nice stringer washers, that come in many different diameters and colors. I use the real large diameter washers on the thin stringer boats or on the high HP applications. After you do the repair it should last two of your life times as the one that we are discusing has lasted probably 25 years already. Remember this is not a race boat, it is a lake/river hot rod.

Here are a few pics of the dowels installed and one of the bilge prior to work.
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: 2savage4you on September 07, 2007, 06:54:40 PM
Is this the one you were telling me about ?


2sav
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED on September 07, 2007, 07:00:42 PM
Here are a few more pics;
Title: Re: Boat repair
Post by: GAWnCA on September 07, 2007, 07:18:21 PM
Here are a few more pics;

Thanks Jim,  That looks easy enough.   ::)  Easy for me to say, huh???  :)  Since It's been a long time since I did any glass work.  First thing is to get the motor out and to the shop and then clean the crud out of the bilge!  Simple Green, Tide and Dawn dish soap should do the trick.
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