Stringer Question?

« **on:** March 28, 2010, 05:03:08 AM »

I'm about to start epoxying in my stringers with West Marine Epoxy and I would like to epoxy them into place and let them set and harden so they don't move around when I start reinforcing layers of fiberglass, Directions say if it sets during layering i just need to sand the new surface before reapplying a new started layer. I want to let it set before the first layer and I read and heard and remember from years ago that restarting can make bubbles from temperature differences caused from the heat when curing. So my question is.

Can I epoxy my stringers to the floor on all contact points only, using no covering material, flair the seams, Let dry/set/harden over night, Then the next day cover all the wood with all the layers of fiberglass woven roving, mat and cloth that i will be using? With Out any curing problems? Like cracks or bubbles or warping from heat changes?

And does anyone have a preferred method of layers, Looks like the factory put down woven roving first, then mat then cloth, I'm thinking Two layers of those 3 in that order??

Thanks for your time and information it is much appreciated. Roy

« **Reply #1 on:** April 18, 2010, 06:38:10 PM »

Roy-

Here is my 2 cents..

Is your bare hull totaly clean from grease, oil and other build of of boating crap from the years? I would preasure wash the crap out of it (hull or areas of repair).. After degreasing and washing it I would sand or grind the areas you are geting reading to fiberglass with 40grit or so. Before glassing get yourself a couple gallons of acetone, this will be used to wipe and clean the areas your are preparing for glassing and after grinding, its also great for clean up of tools ect..

I have mixed feelings about the west marine resins, I would go spend the money on a 5 gal pale of a good boat yard polyester resin and a pint of MEKP. MEKP is the catalist for the resin. I would mix the resing/MEKP to gel in 20min.

I would suggest getting some 2408 or some good 6" Biaxial fiberglass. You can tab your stringers in with this or go with a good 2 part epoxy like Plexius or weldon and tab them in with that. Either way let set for 24 hours. If you use the resin/fiberglass and you wait more than 24 hours before getting on the glassing again I would suggest sanding your tabs before you start glassing over your repairs. Then you can start your layering, I would continue to use the Biaxial mat for your stinger application, biaxail is a lot stronger and eaiser to work with in my opinion than the roven mat.

Also here is a tip... if you are using a marine ply or a composite for your stingers I would use a gringer or a router to "round the tops" of the stringers so your glass will flow over the tops of the stringers. Wet glass has a hard time covering and sticking over and around 90 degrees or corners of your substrate, you will tend to trap a lot of air.

Good luck..

Lee

« **Reply #2 on:** April 18, 2010, 06:42:39 PM »

I would go with 3 layers of 2408 in the back of the boat around the motor mounts, I would go with 3 layers to about mid ship and then transition to 2 layers fwd. Make sure you go with about 3-4" overlap on your glass, that will insure a good bond to the hull.

River Roy

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