SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair => Topic started by: RTriebess on March 12, 2010, 05:25:22 PM
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Do you thin it before you spray if so what ratio? Thanks
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i dont have any idea :-[ so i will be watching this thread :thumbup:
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Do you thin it before you spray if so what ratio? Thanks
You have to be careful when thinning gel coat, the viscosity is sensitive and will effect the finish hardness and curing times, I would recommend getting a hold of these guys http://www.duratec1.com/dp07.html . The mold repair products they have are awesome and work very very well, Duratec offers an additive for spraying gel coat that I picked up for doing White Trash II and it seems pretty straight forward.
Use MEK for thinning, not Acetone, never more than about 25% and in a well ventilated non explosive environment, MEK and Acetone are extremely combustible and will explode if exposed to an open flame. And as always, use a respirator with an organic vapor cartridge. :thumbup:
GT
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Any spraying tips. I sprayed with a gravity feed gun about 25%-35% mix with aciton and it was a real rough finish had to sand smooth. I want to spray my inside transom and stringers and engine compartment but don't want to have to sand after. I had a painter buddy spray the bottom of another boat and it turned out great. no sanding after he finished. I have a 2.2 tip in the gun, spraying at 20 psi tried various air pressure and it didn't seem to change how it came out. Thanks
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Any spraying tips. I sprayed with a gravity feed gun about 25%-35% mix with aciton and it was a real rough finish had to sand smooth. I want to spray my inside transom and stringers and engine compartment but don't want to have to sand after. I had a painter buddy spray the bottom of another boat and it turned out great. no sanding after he finished. I have a 2.2 tip in the gun, spraying at 20 psi tried various air pressure and it didn't seem to change how it came out. Thanks
Sprayed gel coat comes out extremely orange peeley without a flow additive like the Duratec, the best tip I can give is a large tip with as low of pressure as you can get away with and the highest possible viscosity. Once sprayed, re spray the surface with PVA mold release, this keeps bugs from sticking and shortens cure time because of the insulating factor it provides.
I have never been able to surface spray gel coat with having to color block and polish it, just too damn rough.
Good luck, I am going to be shooting my Carrera when the weather warms up (it's 37* outside right now) :screwy:
GT
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Bump, Any news on any of these projects? I'm at this stage and need information on gel coating or rattle canning my stringers and transom.
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Bump, Any news on any of these projects? I'm at this stage and need information on gel coating or rattle canning my stringers and transom.
LOL, I am seeing the sun here for the first time in weeks today... :thumbup:
Just gotta get some stuff to dry out a bit. ;)
I can't wait... 8)
GT
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LOL, I am seeing the sun here for the first time in weeks today... :thumbup:
Just gotta get some stuff to dry out a bit. ;)
unforuntently
I can't wait... 8)
GT
Being From Pittsburgh I know all to well about weather putting a damper on things (Punn intended) :banghead: :mad:
Good luck with the Blue Skies and the boat. :thumbup: ... Roy
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The best way to thin gel is with Styrene. You can thin up to 25%, I would not suggest thining your gelcoat with MEKP, this will make your gel hard and brittle... Adding more MEKP will also make your pot gel way faster than you intend.
Mix your MEKP to gel in 20-25 minutes.
Spray your mixture with 60-80psi and your a good heavy primer tip in your gun, I have very good luck with a 2.0 out of a Sifon feed gun.
Spraying gel is totaly diferent than paint... Just cover your piece well, because you will be knocking it down with a DA and wetsanding anyway. Then get ready to buff..
Keep Aceton and pipe cleaners handing for fast and speady clean up for you gun....
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The last post was for spraying gel for a finished surface like hull and deck running surfaces "not bilge".
For bilge areas I always buy the gelcoat mixed with wax or you can always add the "wax" this is the same process, but you will not sand or buff this gelcoat.. bilge grade gell is always a flat finish when finished. If a a gloss is desired on a uneven surface I prefer a singe stage paint with a hardner added..
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For bilge areas I always buy the gelcoat mixed with wax or you can always add the "wax" this is the same process, but you will not sand or buff this gelcoat.. bilge grade gell is always a flat finish when finished. If a a gloss is desired on a uneven surface I prefer a singe stage paint with a hardner added..
Thanks for the replies/help. I'm interested in a gloss transom and bilge area and thinking about this "Single Stage Paint with a Hardner added". What's the pros's and con's, best products? Best procedures to spray? They make it in a rattle can??.lol.. Thanks again... Roy.
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Dupont makes some good suff, I like their Nason product line of single stage urathane paint. Finishmasters, the dealers of Dupont paint can color match anything..
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that nason shit suck i painted a school bus with it just because the customer was a cheap ass.i do not recommend this stuff at all.
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Other than maybe brush marks....is there any reason why you couldnt brush on duratec? I need to do something with the inside of my 2 outer sponsons.
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Other than maybe brush marks....is there any reason why you couldnt brush on duratec? I need to do something with the inside of my 2 outer sponsons.
Duratec will brush OK, just not sure how you will control runs....Why not spray it? It is as much work either way..
I stated using MEK, not MEKP, leave out the peroxide, it kicks slower and flows longer....Use the same amount of hardener and get it warm quick, don't forget the PVA to keep the dragon flies from landing in the fresh gel.... ;)
GT
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Other than maybe brush marks....is there any reason why you couldnt brush on duratec? I need to do something with the inside of my 2 outer sponsons.
Ive got some used carpet that will fit right in there, pm me your address and I'll send it right out. ;D
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I need to buy spray guns, If I buy a cheap harbor freight 3 pack that comes with gravity feed guns 1 for primer and 2 mains that tips can be changed/bought, Think they would work a couple times spraying gel and this MEK you speak of?
I have not had that kind of spray gun in my hand for over 2o years, If a repair deserves better then rattle can I just drop it off at a buddies body shop. But I want to do every bit of work on my boat accept the
actual engine build So I need walked thru this by the hand like a bitch with a knot in my T-Shirt. ;) :)
So can you walk me threw this step by step from purchasing every product to completion, I want glossy black on my bilge/ stringer area. (is that mixed black at home or paint store)
I first wanted to just rattle can it but since I'm doing everything else the right and expensive way I might as well attempt to do this the right way even if done wrong. :banghead: I'm having fun so thats all that matters. 8)
Thanks again for all the information and help, It's greatly appreciated .. Roy
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Duratec will brush OK, just not sure how you will control runs....Why not spray it? It is as much work either way..
I stated using MEK, not MEKP, leave out the peroxide, it kicks slower and flows longer....Use the same amount of hardener and get it warm quick, don't forget the PVA to keep the dragon flies from landing in the fresh gel.... ;)
GT
I just hate tapeing chit off....plus everytime I shoot...I keep looking out the blinds for the epa to come fine me more than my boat is worth. One I could do now...the other I would need to gut my boat for. I dunno. And no Proppy... I don't want carpet.lol
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Sounds like cakeman is an inexperienced painter... sersiously the nasons product line is a very good quality paint for marine use.. we used all the time for blending and color matching for repairs on gel.. the paint will wet sand and buff to a great shine, and will not yellow and go opaque like some clears will when being surmged for a prolonged peroid of time.. Finishmasters at least in FL, is first class operation in my opinion..
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Go with GT Jets! Duratec 50/50 gel. 5 cc MEKP at 72 degrees. 1.5 tip HVLP easy easy easy....
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Sorry, 5 cc per 1/2 pint......
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Couple of questions about gel. How much product to completely refinish a boat? It seems to cost less than paint per gallon. I was looking at the Duratec line, they offer nice colors. How hard is it to do graphics with it since it is so thick? It seems to be spray-able with a cheap (Harbor Freight) gun??? It looks like the main downside is tons of sanding to get a smooth finish. Being that it sprays so thick, do you have less overspray issues than paint? I've done some minor spray projects, never done anything this big, is it fairly simple for a beginner to do?
I'm seriously thinking of re-finishing my boat myself in the next winter or two. I want to change color to orange base with purple graphics.
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Was gonna spray the inside of my hull with it...decided to brush and roll with 1/2 nap(6"roller). You can cut it down with acetone to spray and lesson the amount of hardener for length of time to spray. I brushed the first coat with 2.5cc hardener per 1/2 qt which is half the amount required. Then second with same hardener and 10cc of surface seal....came out sick.
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I used 5% styrene for a thinner. For the first two coats (one light and one heavy) I ran 35% OrcaAirDry as a additive and then for the final, I blew it on with 50% OrcaAirDry. This eliminated the need for PVA or Wax. Worked really nice and easy. My only issue was that I kept getting too close and had a hard time staying back the 12" to 18" that I was instructed to and caused myself some extra work.
MEKP for the Catalyst.......................john