SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair => Topic started by: SuperJet on October 11, 2010, 11:19:01 PM
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So tonight when i got home from work i decided to pull the rubrail off my boat and see just what i was getting myself into. Well long story short the removing turned into literally ripping off the railing and i can clearly see what needs to be done. My hull is a 1978 Sanger SuperJet at 18' and my question is how much resin do i need to cap my hull? i plan on using epoxy resin so i know it will be costly and since i am running on a limmited budget i dont want to buy more than i need to. This is not my first time with firberglass work so there will little waste as far as unused resin, i just dont want to spend money on materials that will go unused. Also it seems that the general concensus for resin is to go with the west systems set up. so i am thinking of going with them is there anything i should get in conjuntion with the resin and hardener? i have read about spheres(cant exactly remember) and understand they really control viscosity and kick time but are they a necessity? Any info is very much appreciated and I am kinda looking for some quick responses since i am planning on ordering the supplies to start this thing this week.
Thanks Again
RC
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Why buy it all at once? Start with the quart kit... :thumbup:
Cab-O-Sil is your friend (ground up fiberglass) and check in to TAP plastics, they sell epoxy resin too... :thumbup:
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=27& (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=27&) For their Marine Grade resins...
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=44& (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=44&) For their Cab-O-Sil...
Good luck!
GT
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I,m curious why you are using epoxy? It is much more expensive ( as you know) than Polyester. It's also a different material than the original and I don't know if they bond well together. Also once you have ground the cap area and glassed it and block it out, what are you using for a sanding primmer, Epoxy or a good automotive Polyester. fresh epoxy and new poly might not work. I'd save time and $ sticking to poly. PS If you are just filling the crack I wouldn't. The typical cap is about 4" wide and requires quite a bit of grinding in order to get though the seam down to the glass they bond the top & bottom together with. They do that so you don't have any pockets of air that will eventually cause a crack. As I recall B&K boat repair used like two layers of 6oz. mat and ground that out prior to priming. Glass fillers were not used. If you do need a filler the cabasil is a good way to go. The spheres you peek of are Microballons and they are fine but you need a bunch of it to get the resin thick. Sanger is a great looking boat when it's capped have fun and good luck.
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FWIW you will have little to no adhesion problems with the epoxy resins, but must be marine grade, in some cases the epoxy sticks better to old poly resin than poly itself, you have to remember that the old poly is hardened and somewhat oxidized, so it is really no longer a chemical thing... ;)
In other words, the polyester does not know it's polyester, the epoxy only knows to bond well to the roughed up surface.
I literally have never heard of anyone have an adhesion problem with a properly prepped surface.
Advantages....
Does not stink.
Longer, more controlled pot life.
More viscosity and cure time options.
Incredible shelf life.
Super easy clean up.
Strong as hell.
And lastly, very easy to work with (almost idiot proof)... :thumbup:
GT
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does not stink isnt that a disadvantage????? ;D
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Why buy it all at once? Start with the quart kit... :thumbup:
Cab-O-Sil is your friend (ground up fiberglass) and check in to TAP plastics, they sell epoxy resin too... :thumbup:
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=27& (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=27&) For their Marine Grade resins...
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=44& (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=44&) For their Cab-O-Sil...
Good luck!
GT
GT
thanks for the info and links i will deffinately look inot the link you provided. also i think i am going to go the route you suggest and only buy it a quart at a time. i think i will also get me some cab-o-sil since it will save me time in cutting up large ammounts of mat and making my own. again thankyou for the help.
RC
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I,m curious why you are using epoxy? It is much more expensive ( as you know) than Polyester. It's also a different material than the original and I don't know if they bond well together. Also once you have ground the cap area and glassed it and block it out, what are you using for a sanding primmer, Epoxy or a good automotive Polyester. fresh epoxy and new poly might not work. I'd save time and $ sticking to poly. PS If you are just filling the crack I wouldn't. The typical cap is about 4" wide and requires quite a bit of grinding in order to get though the seam down to the glass they bond the top & bottom together with. They do that so you don't have any pockets of air that will eventually cause a crack. As I recall B&K boat repair used like two layers of 6oz. mat and ground that out prior to priming. Glass fillers were not used. If you do need a filler the cabasil is a good way to go. The spheres you peek of are Microballons and they are fine but you need a bunch of it to get the resin thick. Sanger is a great looking boat when it's capped have fun and good luck.
WIzard i am useing the epoxy for a few reasons, one is that it is water proof where as poly isnt so i can leave it bare and if i gets wet i wont really have to worry about the water and drying it out when i go to work it again. also i am using for the strength aspect, it is to my understanding that epoxy resin has more strength than polyester.as far as what it takes to cap the hull.... i know exactly what it takes to do it and do it right and have no doubts i will do it properly. like i said i am no stranger to fiberglass. as far as the paint is concerned once all the capping is done i will be having the boat re gelled white from the outter strakes up and over and the onlr reason i am doint this is becauise i have/want to have the deck re gelled because the origional is cracking and a friend of my dads own/opersates a boat repair shop and is giving me a killer deal on the gel work other wise i would use a good sanding primer and paint the boat just as i would any of the cars that i work on.
RC
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does not stink isnt that a disadvantage????? ;D
Hey Farmer I agree having no smell is a severe disadvantage ;D
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Hey little late, but wanted to check with you on how your capping job turned out lookin to do mine soon to
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Hey little late, but wanted to check with you on how your capping job turned out lookin to do mine soon to
The cap came out great. I actually have the boat at the gel coaters right now