It's coming along...

« **Reply #50 on:** April 04, 2008, 09:39:50 PM »

Reworked the impellor, polished the bowl and tunnel ram, reinstalled the engine, painted the swimstep Blue with marine polyeurathane.

Next week. Finish wiring, install gauges and interior.

« **Reply #51 on:** April 04, 2008, 10:29:40 PM »

Looks like nice work. I can't believe how much that hull dwarfs that engine with a TR.

« **Reply #52 on:** April 04, 2008, 10:33:21 PM »

Looking good Speedy, your going to be back on the water in no time.

« **Reply #53 on:** April 05, 2008, 07:45:26 AM »

Thanks! The hull is pretty deep, lots 'o room. I think the engine cover is gonna clear the TR, Stealth mode :-)

« **Reply #54 on:** April 05, 2008, 07:56:43 AM »

Quote from: speedymopars on April 05, 2008, 07:45:26 AM

Thanks! The hull is pretty deep, lots 'o room. I think the engine cover is gonna clear the TR, Stealth mode :-)

Lose the TR then and put a blower on it....Super Stealth mode!

« **Reply #55 on:** April 07, 2008, 05:32:19 PM »

I almost *have* to do that - they didn't have any autometer marine vaccum gauges - but they did have Vac/boost so that's what I got :-)

some vents, the divertor and bowl got installed today.

« **Reply #56 on:** April 07, 2008, 06:23:56 PM »

lookin good speedy

« **Reply #57 on:** April 14, 2008, 04:04:34 PM »

« **Reply #58 on:** April 14, 2008, 04:16:50 PM »

I have a lot of polishing to do next winter, for now, it will have to do. Aluminum plate for MSD very rough fitted and sanded just enough to get the burs off.

Bought a NEW MSD blaster 2 coil - what a bummer. In addition to the big made in china sticker, the paint was already flaking off. Feels like they painted over misted oil...

Thanks to the falling US dollar, I am hoping we start having things made in america again.

« **Reply #59 on:** April 14, 2008, 05:56:28 PM »

Suggestion install push button start button use before you use boat , use when boat is pulled and after you tie down helps to get water out of logs, again at home before you put it away, then once a week to make sure no rust or lock up at home, keeps oil pumped up with out start up. I turn my motor over several times be for I leave home, Wont hurt pump if you don't start it ,Boats set for long time oil drawn of hell you know ,( Separate from ING.) LQQKing GQQD ( I love my push botton starter) Saves me money. AND I dont have a pump.

« **Reply #60 on:** April 14, 2008, 06:54:04 PM »

Great idea. I have an extra button and some space right there. I might as well add a kill switch too, ya never know...

« **Reply #61 on:** April 15, 2008, 07:55:34 AM »

How do you wire this button in? I've got the wiring to do so adding something isn't a problem right now.

« **Reply #62 on:** April 15, 2008, 09:38:02 AM »

I know you have a Ford solenoid on your boat and it is easy at dash run hot wire from wire block, I hope you have a wire block run hot wire to starter button, separate from ING you don't want power on no keys in ING run wire for starter solenoid to starter button not to ING now you can turn motor over and not start it, You test too see if motor will turn over . The main thing
is you can bump starter to relive spring set on motor if it set for a while. I mark drive shaft
and turn motor to different stop on shaft . If you have a point Dis you bump it to ADJ points, And no real
dry starts if you turn motor over be for you start , Don't for get that Ford solenoid is wired like is supposed to be battery one side the starter cable the other side and starter wire to center post on solenoid that is correct way to wire the Ford solenoid separation of power no power
at starter tell solenoid is engaged. And with wire block at dash you play your stereo and
not have to leave keys in ING. or have it on. will post some picturs later

« **Reply #63 on:** April 18, 2008, 07:36:23 PM »

429 - I have a MOPAR so it's a lot cheaper and easier than that! I spent 9 bucks on a moroso pushbutton switch, and wired it in today using a single 14 gauge wire .

I almost had it ready for tomorrow's show at Irvine, but it was not to be. It will probably be done next week. Did lots of wiring, drilled and tapped the transom adapter for the hyd lines, set up the MSD harness, mounted the starter relay... the lights are mostly in, and the interior is modified. I actually have power to the interior / dash / external lights now.

The straight through water injectors are removed, the new to me nickson snails I cut off to make big all the way through, and the 4 inch tips are ready to be installed in the transom ....

« **Reply #64 on:** April 18, 2008, 07:50:21 PM »

Wouldnt it be cheaper and just as easy to pull your coil wire instead of messing around with puttin in a button? Just a thought.

« **Reply #65 on:** April 18, 2008, 08:20:22 PM »

Actually with the button, I have it mounted to the same al panel that holds the MSD 6 and coil. Easily accessable when I'm working on the engine.

The button ONLY controls the starter, so if I turn the key on, I can start it.

If I leave the ignition off, it will crank until I release the button without fear of starting.

The ignition switch works normally, so when I'm in the drivers seat, the button is ignored.

Otherwise if I need to bump the engine over (like when I set timing, adjust valves, etc) I have to crawl out of the engine compartment, over the rear seat, and turn the key.

« **Reply #66 on:** April 18, 2008, 08:29:14 PM »

Thats a cool setup! I was thinking that you guys were talking about putting a button in up on the dash. My mistake

.

« **Reply #67 on:** April 18, 2008, 10:03:57 PM »

I have starter button on dash, I can turn motor over before i start it. In water dont have to walk to back of boat have remote at motor to . to me it is easier to walk up to boat and push starter button , Dont have to worry a bout taken coil wire out, and putting back, Now I am and old timer and I think in the old days you had to have resistance on coil wire or it
would kill power box, Plus i start in gear bush button and go , I can stand by side of boat
and push button dont have to get in boat. I can turn motor over pump water out of ex&Int or start it while on ramp No pump can run dry. My starter button cost $3,00 Pep Boys and
2'' feet more wire. My motor stays dry no rust on cylinder Walls.No water in logs,Run them
hard put a way dry.

« **Reply #68 on:** April 18, 2008, 10:31:05 PM »

This all sounds like pretty good ideas.

« **Reply #69 on:** April 22, 2008, 08:12:47 PM »

more done today this week.

« **Reply #70 on:** April 22, 2008, 08:16:41 PM »

Quote from: speedymopars on April 22, 2008, 08:12:47 PM

more done today this week.

Great job, all most ready for the water.

« **Reply #71 on:** April 22, 2008, 10:06:18 PM »

lookin good, i like the button idea

« **Reply #72 on:** April 24, 2008, 06:06:50 PM »

Coming home tomorrow. Now I can work on it at home rather than at the marine shop, though they don't seem to mind. I fixed some other boat's ignition and wiring problems for them, and stayed out of the way...

I may need to level the carbs, although they don't look that tilted. I love those 4.5 inch tips!

« **Reply #73 on:** April 24, 2008, 06:15:59 PM »

Front - the light is a new LED based model - really bright (2 m visability) and you can see it from about a 200 degree view.

« **Reply #74 on:** May 06, 2008, 08:29:28 PM »

IT'S RUNNING! All I have to do is drill two holes to mount the MSD 6AL box (which is bigger than a 6A, I always thought they used the same one), put my rear seat back in, grab various boat stuff and go get it wet.

I'd love to do it before this weekend - anyone else want to go to elsinore during the week? I'm flexible.

I wish I could try out my single plane with my 850 DP, but unfortunately, due to my bad distributor and a bad floatbowl, the carb cought on fire during a backfire. It was bad enough to where I couldn't get it out and had to hit it with a fire extingusher before it spread to the hull.

Oh well, no damage to the boat, and I know the TR will work better anyway.

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