SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair => Topic started by: jamiemwedmore1234 on September 23, 2015, 12:01:29 PM
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So since I had to pull the motor and have a cyclinder sleeved I have some down time to do some overhauling .so I pulled all the carpet out going to pull the tanks out .my plan it to rhino line the interior section and bilge coat the back and clean the carpet and glue off the tanks. Got a estimated from a rhino liner place of about 500-700$ to do it in any color.need some input pro,s con,s. Also want to fill in all the unused bolt holes through out my stringers I was thinking of using wood dowels and resin. I plan on leaving the stringers in natural form. And need some advise on stripping the glue off of the tanks planing on leaving them uncovered just a cleaner install
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Dowels and resin is how I filled unnecessary holes in my stringers. I used a random orbital sander to get all the nasty carpet glue off the tanks. I left them at a 220 or 400 grit, I can't remember. They looked good at that point, but you could always polish them out! Flow coating the floors will be way cheaper than $5-700. It'll look better and won't get hot during the summer.
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Pics.
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How do you get glue from the carpet of the haul of the boat?
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Pics.
did you coat the stringers in resin and how was the bilge coat as far a slippery
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Don't rhyno line it bud, that texture will keep dirt and grime in it. Flow coat it and it will look awesome. And it won't cost you a whole lot to do.
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How do you get glue from the carpet of the haul of the boat?
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Random orbital sander with 60 grit.
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did you coat the stringers in resin and how was the bilge coat as far a slippery
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Floors, stringers, transom, and bulk head were all sanded. Repairs were made, then everything was coated in resin. From there everything but the stringers were sanded with 220 before laying down the "flow coat"
It's somewhat slippery, but not as bad as I thought. You have to be careful. Maybe a strip of carpet between the center stringers wouldn't be a bad idea.
One thing I like about the flowcoat is it cleans up nicely. Earlier this summer we hit storms on the way to the river and loaded it up with chairs, ezup, etc. After all that abuse it buffed out easily.
The mess in the pics below rinsed out with soap and water. That was from a storm we hit on rice road.
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How do you get glue from the carpet of the haul of the boat?
Carpet glue eliminator. And it won't sand off your resin.
http://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:WLDWH:AND:number=59201 (http://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:WLDWH:AND:number=59201)
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How do you get glue from the carpet of the haul of the boat?
Carpet glue eliminator. And it won't sand off your resin.
http://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:WLDWH:AND:number=59201 (http://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:WLDWH:AND:number=59201)
and this sum bitch wont touch glass?......or is easy on glass....wont gauge it quickly?
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How do you get glue from the carpet of the haul of the boat?
Carpet glue eliminator. And it won't sand off your resin.
http://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:WLDWH:AND:number=59201 (http://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:WLDWH:AND:number=59201)
i end up using a real soft wire wheel on a grinder and a d/a sander made some good progress
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any pics of that progress?
i take it the wire brush didnt heat up glue to much, making it gummy and just relocated it elsewhere...?
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Real good job all round,lots of work but looks bitch'n dude👍👍
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any pics of that progress?
i take it the wire brush didnt heat up glue to much, making it gummy and just relocated it elsewhere...?
for the most part took the glue right off just got to be careful cause it well eat up the glass
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cool thanks
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Probably end up coating the floor with resin to seal it all up and creat a nice surface for the bilge coat
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and this sum bitch wont touch glass?......or is easy on glass....wont gauge it quickly?
It's relatively easy on the resin. The matrix has silicone carbide in it, which is very hard. But the matrix flexes. It will scratch the resin, but it won't really take off any significant amount of material unless you really hold the wheel in one spot for a long time, and over-heat the resin. Think of it as a really heavy-duty Scotch-Brite pad.
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After about 6 more hrs of prep almost ready for some color
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After about 6 more hrs of prep almost ready for some color
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Looks good. :thumbup:
What color are you going to go with? Are you going to put any carpet back in?
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So far filled about 30 holes 8' of 1/2 wood Dowel screw hole I'll just fill with resin as rar a color either white or yellow haven't decided no carpet
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Pics
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How do you get glue from the carpet of the haul of the boat?
Zep purple industrial degreaser took the glue right off mine
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Zep purple industrial degreaser took the glue right off mine
Off the glass...or tanks...or both?
That stuff says not to use on aluminum. I've done so...turns it black...ish
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Off the glass...or tanks...or both?
That stuff says not to use on aluminum. I've done so...turns it black...ish
I pulled the carpet out of the storage space in my keel. I cleaned it before removing the bulkheads. I couldn't believe it took the glue off so easily.
I wouldn't try it on the fuel tanks. It might only dull the finish or it might turn it black. I've seen it go ways. I have been using it to clean all my aluminum diesel parts, going to powder coat, and it hasn't affected any of them.
My tanks are glassed in and one looks really terrible. Getting the carpet glue off is the least of concerns.
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Sealing everything up with some fresh resin adding some gussets to keep the tanks nice and tight should be ready for some bilge coat by next week
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Today's project rebuild drivers seat
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Sealed up my tank gussets
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Some progress this weekend got the tanks back in and the floor finished now sit and watch paint dry next weekend drop motor back in and get this pig ready for tpm
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Pics
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Well took it out today ran pretty good lost a couple of mph still working on a good tune probably put a set of plugs and play with the timing. Do have some question for the ol timers my motor builder says time it at 32-34 degrees and a good buddy of mine that loves stroker motors says nothing over 30 degrees what do you think and spark plugs I currently running ac r44t is there a better plug to run. Motor is 9-1 496 stroker 4-1/4 stroke crank cam is 264*duration .050 .630 lift valve timing 108*set at 105* carb is hp 950 jets 86 all 4 corners current rpm wide open throttle 5,800 thanks in advance
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Well took it out today ran pretty good lost a couple of mph still working on a good tune probably put a set of plugs and play with the timing. Do have some question for the ol timers my motor builder says time it at 32-34 degrees and a good buddy of mine that loves stroker motors says nothing over 30 degrees what do you think and spark plugs I currently running ac r44t is there a better plug to run. Motor is 9-1 496 stroker 4-1/4 stroke crank cam is 264*duration .050 .630 lift valve timing 108*set at 105* carb is hp 950 jets 86 all 4 corners current rpm wide open throttle 5,800 thanks in advance
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. I run mine at 38 degrees.
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Your engine combination will like what it likes. One timing value is not the magic end-all be-all that every BBC, BBF, or whatever should be set at. You need to time testing and tuning (not at an event) to arrive at your best possible tune.
Once you get your air/fuel ratio under control, you can then start power tuning your timing.
Read through this: http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/reading-spark-plugs.html
And these other good articles: http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/
I also like this one from Circle Track Magazine: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1842-ignition-timing-maximum-performance/
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A little before and after pic. Came bitchen looken now on the the seats and a little trailer restore and I'll be happy
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Looking good! Wish I could say the same about mine lol
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Man this winter overhaul is been going on for a few years now

boats back apart again completely new motor build redid the transom new rigging pretty much a new 1984 boat
at the cost of a new boat.
Motor is 12:8. 496
Dart pro one heads ported/polished
Solid roller cam
Manly crank rods
Dynoed at 885 hp
Nitrous exspress plate
Holly 1050 carb
Pump we’ll have a B/C ss impeller
Jet away
Inducer
A/q shaft.
Bjs pump
Added -10 bungs to the tanks
Eddie built motors did the motor
Derrick Meyer did the glass gel work
B1 racing did pump work
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Lookin killer

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Motors back in new rails and plates now just plumbing and wiring should be able to make next race 🤞🏻 got a couple of trays one under back seat for electrical and one between front seats for bottle and other random things. And new scoop tray.
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looks good! Are you bringing it to the next NJBA race?
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Little update pulled motor and rails back out decided to clean inside of boat up a bit installed carpet had billy ruff fab up a elec box to keep everything watertight. Now everything going back in and start making progress on this deal
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Also polished the intake
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Badass!!! Everything looks killer. I can't wait to see it on the river.
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Looks great!!!
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Some bling
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Duuuuuuuuuuuude!!!
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Very clean! Looks great!
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Looking good buddy!
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All in the detail. So close I can taste it 🤣
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Wow! Killer set up. Looks amazing.
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More progress
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More progress
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Super clean!!! I love it
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