SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair => Topic started by: Tahiti Tiger on January 17, 2008, 04:30:46 PM
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Dare I say it? There was a nice article on HB about replacing a rotting transom. My transom is only rotting on the right corner of the boat. But it is my understanding there are no patch jobs. My stringers knock on wood are perfectly fine. So my plan is to pull the engine, pull the Berkeley aluminum housing off, and remove the saddle tanks. Then I will take my trusty die grinder and cut the inner fiber glass off. From there I will remove the rotten wood, and us a putty knife to remove the good wood :o. I have a nice little right angle air sander that uses roloc disks that I will use to clean up with.
OK I have the removal part planned out pretty good, but how the heck to I get it back together? My original plan was to use a synthetic like foam core, or etc. But a rep at Fiberglast pretty much told me that was a bad idea, even for a jet boat transom. So I am thinking of staying with 1" marine plywood.
Now this is how I THINK it is supposed to be done, correct me if I am wrong. Using stiff cardboard or thin 1/4 plywood, make a template of the transom. Then cut out the 1", and fit as needed. From there I glass a single layer of cloth to the 1" marine plywood, and seal the edges. Once cured (next weekend) I basically put a thick coat of rosin (mixed to cure slow), all over the transom, and slip in the new glassed plywood. Apply many clamps, and wait for it to cure. Once that is done, I can then apply more cloth as needed around the edges, the top deck seem, and the stringers.
So does this sound like a good attack plan?? Please advise or correct as needed. If I am totally off tell me now LOL. A fiber glass shop wanted $1500 to replace the transom, and I just don't have that kind of spare coin. :'(
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I think 1/2 " is good enough and its less weight ;)
2sav
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I think 1" is overkill....3/4" will work fine and is probably what was originally in there. oldrigger can chime in to confirm.
As far as your process...I am not sure of the reason to glass the wood before putting it in. I would put it in then resin/glass it.
I never got a straight answer as so what to use to bond the wood to the trasnsom...so I am not 100% sure what to use.
Check out the wriedt stinger project thread here: http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=11.0 (the transom stuff starts on page 2)
we replaced the transom pretty easily....we made some financial shortcuts like not buying the marine wood. It was $85 for a 3/4" sheet.
Also, putting the wood in was a challenge because it wouldnt fit, so we made 2 pieces (45 degree cut horizontally).
Also, undercut your hole for the pump so it overlaps it a bit...then go back and fine cut/sand. It will make it easier so you dont have to line it up durring install.....the same for your through transom exhaust ports.
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who needs wood ??? no wood here
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/DSC04580.JPG)
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who needs wood ??? no wood here
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/DSC04580.JP)
Aint got wood on mine either
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If my transom wood was not newly replaced I would have yanked the old stuff off and left it. I think the wood is handy to mount things to but that is about it. Look at a fountain,dcb,etc with a heavy outdrive bolted to it....no wood there either
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If my transom wood was not newly replaced I would have yanked the old stuff off and left it. I think the wood is handy to mount things to but that is about it. Look at a fountain,dcb,etc with a heavy outdrive bolted to it....no wood there either
They have a very thick transom and it has some sort of core in it.
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T Tiger,
Hey, if it was me and it was just a little ol tahiti tiger and it was just one little soft spot in the transom, I'd cut out that one bad area, get the glass in the transom now showing, smooth, cut a piece of ply to fit back in there, feather back the existing glass on wood surounding the hole, bond in the new piece with 2 or 3 oz of mat, fill what little gaps there should be with some cab-o-sil, sand it smooth, cover with some mat and cloth and be done with it. If you want, you can then cover the transom in one nice layer of mat and cloth to make it nice and then gel it.
A jet boat doesn't need the wood on the transom for anything but to hang shit, like wire looms and stuff like that
If the rest of the transom wood is good, fok it. :)
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Thanks for all the advice :D
And Brad that is definitely a good idea about the pump hole, I never even thought about that LOL. As for why worry? Well my MSD, and my fuel/water separator are mounted to the transom. So I do need it LOL. Now there was a hidden agenda to this as well. With the new transom in place I could take my 4" hole saw WITH pilot bit and cut out the ports for my Rewarder TT headers :D
I also know why the transom rotted too :( Underneath the aluminum strip is the seem for top and bottom. Well when the boat is sitting, and the lake gets a little choppy water seeps in on the right corner :(. I looked inside and the top deck is securely glassed to the outside of the transom. I have sat in the boat with a garden hose and watched it. I run water over the right corner and it comes out around the inside of my right exhaust outlet. :( luckily this only happens in very choppy water while the boat is sitting.
I have also thought about capping the hull too.
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I think those Tahiti Tigers are good looking boats, but I think they look a lot better capped.
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the same exact thing was the verdict for the death of the transom in the wriedt....it was leaking at the cap seem.
post some pics of your project and dont be afraid to ask lots of questions....theres many here willing to help with sound advice.
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I have also thought about capping the hull too.
Do it! The ol Tiger's really looks clean with a cap. :)