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sportinwood

  • Karma: +1/-0
'78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« on: September 22, 2014, 07:06:26 pm »
I need some opinions here. I now have decent size crack on the left side of the hull, starting about where driver sits. Crack runs about 3' long and follows the strake. My gut feel is there was stringer failure under the floor for this to happen and a couple hard hits on the water cracked it.

So what is an average to fix the crack and possible stringer replacements?

I would only need that work done and I think I can handle the new floor and interior work.

I thought I would never have to worry about a Hallett hull cracking, but its just my luck.

Thanks.
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beerjet

  • Karma: +81/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2014, 07:38:09 pm »
Call around!

-beerjet-

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i dont but im all for stuffin shit in her ass to make her go away :-*

beerjet

  • Karma: +81/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2014, 07:39:04 pm »
Hull is gonna have to come off the trailer and be flipped.

-beerjet-

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i dont but im all for stuffin shit in her ass to make her go away :-*

MorePower

  • Karma: +20/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2014, 07:44:20 pm »
Had the same issue. I had it fixed up and problem never came back...

530-355-5367, his name is Steve. He is a realist and will take care of you.


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  • Boat #1: 1974 18ft Southwind
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sportinwood

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2014, 08:09:01 pm »
What did that cost you? If you don't mind me asking...I just have a wedding coming up and planning on buying a house. So I have to figure out if I can start it now or wait a season.

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sportinwood

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2014, 11:49:44 am »
Can anybody chime in on any reputable shops around I.E. that can do a quality repair on this?
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Roadrunner

  • Karma: +12/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2014, 01:28:41 pm »
Pats Fiberglass in Upland. Don is top shelf. I actually had the exact same repair done. Your right, one stringer was wasted. I had to pull the motor. Don removed the floor, ground down the entire hull, replaced stringers and bulkheads, laid a new hull, installed a new floor, flipped the boat and re gel coated the bottom. GREAT job. Good luck


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In God we trust, all others pay cash.

78Southwind

  • Karma: +7/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2014, 02:45:25 am »
I had Pats Fiberglass fix mine but I caught it when it just starting to crack. It looked like it was caused by flexing at the lifting strake. I talked to Futs about it and he put a bandaid on it so I could finish out the season. Futs told me that I should have the entire engine area from the stringers out reinforced with fiberglass. The crack didn't go all the way threw the hull so they fixed it from the inside. Both sides were reinforced with fiberglass and I haven't had any problems and it's been over 9 years since I got the crack fixed.
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sportinwood

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #8 on: September 26, 2014, 12:45:23 pm »
Well Ive started with the insurance and we will see how that plays out. Regardless, I'll be chopping out the floors in a few weeks.

Any tips on keeping from ruining the edges of hull where it meets the floor? Should it be smooth when done? Or keep some type of lip?

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damfoo

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #9 on: October 18, 2014, 10:30:37 am »
what type of tools do you have to work with? a multi-tool works really well with very little dust etc. and good control. If using a 4" +/- angle grinder with 1/6" thick cutoff blade it will be a little faster but produce a lot of itchy fiberglass dust.  carefully cut the fiberglass along the edge of the plywood angling the blade toward/into the wood cutting just through the surface layer of f.glass. once you have removed the plywood subfloor then you can go back and carefully grind the remaining glass lip down to the hull surface with 36 grit sanding disks. no two ways around it, it's a messy, itchy tedious job. good luck, have fun.
  • Boat #1: 1978 Eliminator, 20' SS,
  • Boat #2: 1981 Syndicate 3/8" runner bottom
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JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2014, 11:10:49 am »
i used a sawzall, believe or not.   i angled the blade back, so that tool itself was almost parallel to the floor with blade going into the glass just enough to cut. much less dust than angle grinder and just about as fast.  difference, at least with mine, when/IF the blade would hit the hull i can feel it....it would kick back.  the grinder wont kick....it may slow down as it meets more material, either way, it cuts it before you realize it.   i just needed to get thru top layer of glass.  my floor was pretty bad so prying it up after glass was cut wasnt too hard.    if you kept the blade at the right angle, you can see the full length of stroke and have a good idea how far down youre cutting....ensuring minimal contact with hull.  i think i tapped hull once or twice, no damage.  what ever lip was left can be cut/grind away anyway you want/can.  at that point you can see where hull is.   with stringers....i cut thru the fillet.  same idea, angle the blade back....or just stick the tip in >:D\  and pryed stringer up, carefully ;)
wasnt easy to use angle grinder on stringers....especially outboard side of stringers.

keep us posted brothaman! good luck.  DONT FORGET THE RESPIRATOR .....thats glass dust youd be breathing....
  • Boat #1: '81 tahiti mini day cruiser
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-JARVIS-

sportinwood

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2014, 11:21:59 am »
Thanks for the information. I'm still waiting for responses from insurance. I'm still saving a few bucks until I dive into this thing, but I'll keep everyone posted once I start tearing into it.

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JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2014, 12:05:06 pm »
If you do have to pull a stringer....you can do so on trailer.... but Hull should be supported off trailer when replacing the stringer. Weigh of Hull can cause it to sag around trailer bunks creating a high spot inside Hull/low spot outside of Hull....which is  bad. Support Hull from corners at transom and up front under keel....off trailer so Hull can "relax" into a more normal state as it would in water. You can place 4-5' straight edge against bottm of hull starting from transom to see if you have a high or low spot, then, you can install stringer. 

This is all assuming you'd do the work of course.
  • Boat #1: '81 tahiti mini day cruiser
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sportinwood

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #13 on: October 22, 2014, 12:38:25 pm »
Well, no good news from my insurance. Time to pinch pennies so I can get back out on the water! I'll keep up with pictures when I start to dig into it. Thanks for all of the input so far.

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sportinwood

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: '78 Hallett - Cracked Hull, Worth the fix?
« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2015, 09:33:24 am »
Just a quick update. Took out most of the flooring and located the crack which luckily is not on the stringer. Now its time to set up a few appointments for quotes.
The crack is where you can see the white strip of fiberglass pealing back.
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