has anyone seen something like this??

« **on:** July 20, 2014, 05:10:22 PM »

good day gents. So. 81 tahiti day (or mini day) cruiser. floor was bad. stringers bad also. motor supports appear ok. my question is of the section under the motor. looks like its an added piece to the hull...like a pan. its delaminating on one corner and where the water should drain is about half inch higher than the hull .....so water will never FULLY drain from hull. same goes for just in front of intake housing, water collects there as well. so is this "pan" under the motor typical? bottom of hull looks original...for what thats worth. id like to fix the area where its delaminated....the left corner in pics.
any suggestions as to what can be done to get all the water to drain.....at least all of it from under the floor? under the motor i can soak up if need be. thanks.

« **Reply #1 on:** July 20, 2014, 06:22:46 PM »

Quote from: JARVIS on July 20, 2014, 05:10:22 PM

good day gents. So. 81 tahiti day (or mini day) cruiser. floor was bad. stringers bad also. motor supports appear ok. my question is of the section under the motor. looks like its an added piece to the hull...like a pan. its delaminating on one corner and where the water should drain is about half inch higher than the hull .....so water will never FULLY drain from hull. same goes for just in front of intake housing, water collects there as well. so is this "pan" under the motor typical? bottom of hull looks original...for what thats worth. id like to fix the area where its delaminated....the left corner in pics.
any suggestions as to what can be done to get all the water to drain.....at least all of it from under the floor? under the motor i can soak up if need be. thanks.

Hate to do this to you, but that is not a pan, but where the glass was laminated to the quarter stringers and it has broken loose from the outer layers of the hull.

Motor needs to come out, stringers removed and start from scratch. You will need to thoroughly clean and grind all the surfaces and rebuild the interior structure of the hull.

The first thing I would do is to inspect the bottom of the hull very carefully and look for cracks at and around the strakes.

I have a sneaky suspicion you are in for one hell of a project.

Chances are that the wood in the motor mounting stringers is rotten as well..

On the positive side, if the hull is not cracked all the way through,, this is a perfect time to go full stringer, you will be 90% there...

Sorry for the crappy luck.

GT

« **Reply #2 on:** July 20, 2014, 06:24:10 PM »

Hey! your a newbie..

Welcome to the forum. There's guys on here have done this project you have before you several times... You are in good hands.

GT

« **Reply #3 on:** July 20, 2014, 07:17:18 PM »

thanks GT! not sure where the line is drawn as far as 1/4....3/4...or full stringer boats go. but what you see in the first pic....is not the end of my stringers. at least i dont think. ive attached a few more pics. these were taken before removing the bulkhead just in front of motor and the floor on the sides of the motor where rear seats go. ive since washed the inside, but still have more degreasing to do. this is my first boat....but ive been glassing for many years....im not intimidated by the work. ive searched and read posts/threads on here and other forums for some time now. lots of good info!
bottom of the hull does not show any signs of cracking. but i will double check. a few spots where its been dinged and previous owner has 'repaired' and gel has been rubbed thru from beaching on the keel towards the bow. topside, deck has few....if any stress cracks. 21 foot boat, berk jc, ford 460. i too would not be surprised if motor mount stringers were toast...same for transom. im up for the work.
that corner is the only spot that seems to want to lift....if i pry at it. i didnt put my back into it...cause i can see the hull flexing under the 4 foot pry bar...something would have to give and i didnt want to find out what. here are a few more pics....let me know if this is still considered a 1/4 stringer boat....center runner goes up under the deck....12' long, outer runners are 8 1/2' long. motor stringer is approx 50" long. thanks to all for the help!

« **Reply #4 on:** July 20, 2014, 07:27:53 PM »

Quote from: JARVIS on July 20, 2014, 07:17:18 PM

thanks GT! not sure where the line is drawn as far as 1/4....3/4...or full stringer boats go. but what you see in the first pic....is not the end of my stringers. at least i dont think. ive attached a few more pics. these were taken before removing the bulkhead just in front of motor and the floor on the sides of the motor where rear seats go. ive since washed the inside, but still have more degreasing to do. this is my first boat....but ive been glassing for many years....im not intimidated by the work.

You have a quarter stringer dealio there... The motor mount stringers end right at the floor. a full stringer deal will have continuous beams running all the way to the dash bulkhead. Those skinny little pieces of runner on the stringers location are simply there to have something to mount the floor to. Pretty common.

Quote from: JARVIS on July 20, 2014, 07:17:18 PM

ive searched and read posts/threads on here and other forums for some time now. lots of good info!
bottom of the hull does not show any signs of cracking. but i will double check. a few spots where its been dinged and previous owner has 'repaired' and gel has been rubbed thru from beaching on the keel towards the bow.

Yeah, dealing with one right now where the keel glass in the bow area has virtually rubbed through... Easy money.

Quote from: JARVIS on July 20, 2014, 07:17:18 PM

topside, deck has few....if any stress cracks. 21 foot boat, berk jc, ford 460. i too would not be surprised if motor mount stringers were toast...same for transom. im up for the work.

Sure, you say that now LOL...

Quote from: JARVIS on July 20, 2014, 07:17:18 PM

that corner is the only spot that seems to want to lift....if i pry at it. i didnt put my back into it...cause i can see the hull flexing under the 4 foot pry bar...something would have to give and i didnt want to find out what. here are a few more pics....let me know if this is still considered a 1/4 stringer boat....center runner goes up under the deck....12' long, outer runners are 8 1/2' long. motor stringer is approx 50" long.

Your best bet I still say would be to start over. That delamination literally cannot be fixed properly without removing it all...

Quote from: JARVIS on July 20, 2014, 07:17:18 PM

thanks to all for the help!

You are the one that has to fix it...

Good luck and looking forward to see the progress...

GT

« **Reply #5 on:** July 20, 2014, 07:46:15 PM »

1/4 stringer! got it!

so those floor supports....should they be replaced if wood is bad? seems like an obvious question to me....but it there only to support floor....how critical or bad would it be to leave as is? theres some delam by where the motor is....but rest of glass feels pretty solid, no soft spots. there are a couple areas that look like screw hole damage. i can remove the areas where glass has separated and lay new glass...even wrap a layer over runners...??

i intended on grinding the area by motor that has separated....at least as far back as the delam goes....fair....and lay new glass.
is this not sufficient? prying up on that corner seems risky...glass didnt want to come up....you know....

« **Reply #6 on:** July 21, 2014, 06:52:55 PM »

Quote from: JARVIS on July 20, 2014, 07:46:15 PM

1/4 stringer! got it!

so those floor supports....should they be replaced if wood is bad? seems like an obvious question to me....but it there only to support floor....how critical or bad would it be to leave as is? theres some delam by where the motor is....but rest of glass feels pretty solid, no soft spots. there are a couple areas that look like screw hole damage. i can remove the areas where glass has separated and lay new glass...even wrap a layer over runners...??

i intended on grinding the area by motor that has separated....at least as far back as the delam goes....fair....and lay new glass.
is this not sufficient? prying up on that corner seems risky...glass didnt want to come up....you know....

I'm just going to sound off here, you are free to do what ever you want, but really want you to get my entire two cents worth.

These are just my opinions and I'm telling you what I would do with as much why as I can interject...

Looking at blown up versions of your pictures, this thing is de-laminating all over the place. It also seems that there is a large amount of yellowed/whitened glass. This is either what the industry calls a "dry lay up" or a "hot mix", either way it is going to keep happening to you and likely will cause you do do this job twice. (My pet peeve)...

You will likely be able to simply peel this glass loose and end up with a very fibrous and almost dusty surface. This is not good.

I would cut the remaining stringers and keel out, replace all the wood, potentially even build it with full stringers.

Once this boat is done, your done, you have piece of mind, a quality boat with no hidden issues, the pride that you did it yourself with some help and will enjoy several years of boating with a sound hull..

If you Band Aid it, you will always have in the back of your mind that there will be a problem, always nervously checking it and never really have a good feeling about selling it..

I totally understand where you are coming from and don't get me wrong, but I would hate to see you phone it in and have it bite you right in the ass... I have done it and learned from it and trying to prevent you from making the same mistakes I did... Have I said I hate doing crap twice?

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Look like a cool little boat.

GT

« **Reply #7 on:** July 21, 2014, 10:46:21 PM »

fully understand you and your two cents

in regards to the yellow/white glass...i understand this is a sign of dry glass or hot mix....what color should i be looking for when grinding back for fresh, usable glass? or am i looking for solid build up with no loose, dry fibers? im asking cause....i thought i knew what i was looking for....and im learning i was wrong. if its white...its dry....and thats bad. thats the whole boat! soon as ive degreased it.....thats the color i was left with.

i appreciate the advice

« **Reply #8 on:** July 21, 2014, 10:54:57 PM »

Quote from: JARVIS on July 21, 2014, 10:46:21 PM

fully understand you and your two cents

in regards to the yellow/white glass...i understand this is a sign of dry glass or hot mix....what color should i be looking for when grinding back for fresh, usable glass? or am i looking for solid build up with no loose, dry fibers? im asking cause....i thought i knew what i was looking for....and im learning i was wrong. if its white...its dry....and thats bad. thats the whole boat! soon as ive degreased it.....thats the color i was left with.

i appreciate the advice

I would be more than a little shocked if you could sand down through he yellowed glass. What you are looking for is a semi smooth surface that when wiped with acetone gets dark.

Once the grinding/sanding is done, the surface will be prone to oxidization really quick, so it is important to cover your work to protect it from the suns harmful rays.

You will be able to tell right away when you have gotten to good glass.

One little trick I use to ensure everything is decreased before starting to apply new glass is to use hot water and Dawn dish-washing soap to clean it up, then rinse really well and let it dry for at least a day. After that, wash it down with some MEK or Acetone.

Good luck. You got this.

« **Reply #9 on:** July 22, 2014, 12:57:40 AM »

.....i can hear the "Rocky" theme song already....

« **Reply #10 on:** July 25, 2014, 02:17:10 AM »

GT JETS

so that we are on the same page.....is this what you're suggesting?

« **Reply #11 on:** July 25, 2014, 02:28:26 AM »

pardon the double post.....trying to make image larger.... $:-\$

« **Reply #12 on:** July 25, 2014, 08:49:55 AM »

Tits LaRue

If I am able read the typing in there, I would switch from 3/4" plywood to 1/2". 3/4" is way overkill.

Also, pick up enough light mat to cover the bottom of the plywood before it is installed, resin alone does very little to protect wood from moisture.

The mat will add strength once done on both sides that will increase the overall load bearing capacity to a 1" plywood... Unless you cruise with five fat bottom girls, you should be gold... LOL

GT

« **Reply #13 on:** July 25, 2014, 10:23:00 AM »

haha....maybe one big booty girl....maybe.

ive sent a pm asking about a materials list.

i can switch from 3/4 to 1/2 inch ply...no problem. the sheath the ply....i was going to use 3/4oz mat....top and bottom.
next week is D-day.... ill start grinding, removing all glass etc. ill try to keep a photo record....and post...so that all may laugh at my pain...

...i mean view the progress.

« **Reply #14 on:** July 25, 2014, 10:29:56 AM »

Quote from: JARVIS on July 25, 2014, 10:23:00 AM

haha....maybe one big booty girl....maybe.

ive sent a pm asking about a materials list.

i can switch from 3/4 to 1/2 inch ply...no problem. the sheath the ply....i was going to use 3/4oz mat....top and bottom.
next week is D-day.... ill start grinding, removing all glass etc. ill try to keep a photo record....and post...so that all may laugh at my pain... ...i mean view the progress.

If you're gonna use that shitty home depot ply, make sure you sand the surface real good with some 80 grit to knock the coating off so the grass it resin will stick.

-beerjet-

« **Reply #15 on:** July 25, 2014, 11:18:44 AM »

copy that!

i may have a line on some baltic birch...$40/sheet 1/2 inch. havent decided yet.

« **Reply #16 on:** July 29, 2014, 01:46:11 AM »

GT, i sent you a PM...

« **Reply #17 on:** July 29, 2014, 04:52:57 AM »

Quote from: JARVIS on July 25, 2014, 11:18:44 AM

copy that!

i may have a line on some baltic birch...$40/sheet 1/2 inch. havent decided yet.

$40 for a 4x8 sheet?

-beerjet-

« **Reply #18 on:** July 29, 2014, 10:43:44 AM »

Quote from: beerjet on July 29, 2014, 04:52:57 AM

$40 for a 4x8 sheet?

-beerjet-

yes....40-42 per 4x8 1/2 inch sheet baltic birch ply. at least it was when i checked last. its been a few since...

JARVIS

has anyone seen something like this??

GT Jets

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

GT Jets

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JARVIS

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GT Jets

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JARVIS

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

GT Jets

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

JARVIS

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

GT Jets

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

JARVIS

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

JARVIS

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

JARVIS

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

GT Jets

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

JARVIS

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

beerjet

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

JARVIS

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

JARVIS

Re: has anyone seen something like this??

beerjet

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JARVIS

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