SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Hulls => Topic started by: Carn6x25 on February 24, 2016, 07:41:30 PM
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I have a 79 sleek craft rebel I'm in the process of redoing everything my question is how to get a little more speed and fuel efficiency out of it. With the original setup it had a 454 325hp, Berkeley 12jc-a pump that is wore out,and a place diverter. I'm refinishing the gel coat now, pumps out(needs complete rebuild), the new motor is a 475hp 454, basset headers, MSD pro billet distributer, and MSD ignition box, 9qt oil pan with baffles and windage tray, tunnel ram and two 600 holleys. My real question is what else do I need? Impeller size, load grater, inducer, I'm at a loss and who to get the pump work done by. The boat with the old motor gps was 61mph. If you want to see pictures I'm at Instagram CARN6X25 thanks any help is greatly appreciated
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I have a 79 sleek craft rebel I'm in the process of redoing everything my question is how to get a little more speed and fuel efficiency out of it. With the original setup it had a 454 325hp, Berkeley 12jc-a pump that is wore out,and a place diverter. I'm refinishing the gel coat now, pumps out(needs complete rebuild), the new motor is a 475hp 454, basset headers, MSD pro billet distributer, and MSD ignition box, 9qt oil pan with baffles and windage tray, tunnel ram and two 600 holleys. My real question is what else do I need? Impeller size, load grater, inducer, I'm at a loss and who to get the pump work done by. The boat with the old motor gps was 61mph. If you want to see pictures I'm at Instagram CARN6X25 thanks any help is greatly appreciated
Tightening up the pump is a huge step in the right direction
So you added 150 hp and now you are looking to go faster and get better fuel economy?
You don't want much do you? Lol.
Where are you making your estimated horsepower?
GT
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Dyno was 479hp at 4950
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Dyno was 479hp at 4950
That's fukkin stout. Let me play with the numbers after dinner.
GT
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I'm new here do you just go to actions and you see my reply
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I'm new here do you just go to actions and you see my reply
Are you on a 'puter or the app?
GT
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That's fukkin stout. Let me play with the numbers after dinner.
GT
I'm not new to horsepower I drag race cars, boats are all new but I don't want a drag boat just a fun runabout
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I'm not new to horsepower I drag race cars, boats are all new but I don't want a drag boat just a fun runabout
Nearly 500 horses at 5k is the holy grail. FYI.
GT
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Nearly 500 horses at 5k is the holy grail. FYI.
GT
Like I said I know how to make power but using it in a boat no clue. It's a full roller 11.5to1 ported oval port head 454
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Like I said I know how to make power but using it in a boat no clue. It's a full roller 11.5to1 ported oval port head 454
Where are you at in Montana?
I'm moving to Bozeman next week. Where are you running your boat up there?
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That's fukkin stout. Let me play with the numbers after dinner.
GT
Dinner is after 8pm? That is too late for you mister. You should be in bed by 8 at your age.
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Where are you at in Montana?
I'm moving to Bozeman next week. Where are you running your boat up there?
I live in Malta my brother lives in Bozeman though
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Dinner is after 8pm? That is too late for you mister. You should be in bed by 8 at your age.
Lick my wrinkled balls.
Working my ass off and just got home a little while ago.
GT
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Dinner is after 8pm? That is too late for you mister. You should be in bed by 8 at your age.
Still up. not a problem. I'm up late most of the time
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So here is where my head is at.
You are getting close to the limitations of an aluminum impeller, but I would install a cleaned up aluminum A impeller (unless your wallet can support a mag-bronze or even a stainless). I would also recommend a quality loader grate and trim it to be 1/4" to 3/8" above the keel line.
A bowl stuffer never hurts and not all that costly, it will make the pump a little more responsive and snappy.
Ultimately, that hull would respond very well to a back cut shoe, ride plate and a short droop. It will help get some hull free from the drag of the water.
You're looking a 75 mph boat right in the face if set up correctly.
Weight must be aft and kept add light as humanly possible.
Good luck with the project.
GT
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Can you explain the limitations of the aluminum impeller?
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So here is where my head is at.
You are getting close to the limitations of an aluminum impeller, but I would install a cleaned up aluminum A impeller (unless your wallet can support a mag-bronze or even a stainless). I would also recommend a quality loader grate and trim it to be 1/4" to 3/8" above the keel line.
A bowl stuffer never hurts and not all that costly, it will make the pump a little more responsive and snappy.
Ultimately, that hull would respond very well to a back cut shoe, ride plate and a short droop. It will help get some hull free from the drag of the water.
You're looking a 75 mph boat right in the face if set up correctly.
Weight must be aft and kept add light as humanly possible.
Good luck with the project.
GT
I was thinking stainless A also. I bought some parts from performancejet I thought I may send my pump to them to have it rebuilt or I will do it myself don't know yet though. I can't do a droop with my pump it's a 12jc but the ride plate I for sure. What do you mean by back cut shoe is this machine work you can do at home. Who do you suggest getting the loader grate from I see a lot of different types and places to buy them. Thanks for the help.
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Can you explain the limitations of the aluminum impeller?
Once You get onto the 500-550 hp range, it's a good idea to go stainless steel or mag bronze because of the aluminum being prone to distortion and cavitation burn.
Stainless is more rigid and less likely to experience a catastrophic failure.
GT
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Once You get onto the 500-550 hp range, it's a good idea to go stainless steel or mag bronze because of the aluminum being prone to distortion and cavitation burn.
Stainless is more rigid and less likely to experience a catastrophic failure.
GT
That figures! My naive ass wasnt thinking about that. Well shit.
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I was thinking stainless A also. I bought some parts from performancejet I thought I may send my pump to them to have it rebuilt or I will do it myself don't know yet though. I can't do a droop with my pump it's a 12jc but the ride plate I for sure. What do you mean by back cut shoe is this machine work you can do at home. Who do you suggest getting the loader grate from I see a lot of different types and places to buy them. Thanks for the help.
All you would need to do to utilize a droop would be a simple bowl swap. A two piece bowl is quote literally the input difference between a JC and a JG pump.
A shoe is a part that is cut into and installed at the rear of the intake of the pump replacing the cast in and rounded part of the ramp. It is also the point at which the ride plate will be mounted.
Back cut simply means it is machined at a slight angle as compared to the keel line basically forcing the hull to "ride back" on the plate, I'm thinking 2° back cut is a good starting point, this means the rear most portion of the shoe is 2° "higher" than the front.
It will allow you to fly the bow more than with a stock intake and make it "adjustable" by replacing the shoe. The intake will need to be machined for this modification.
As for a loader, they are a little bit of a trial and error thing, stay away from the ones marketed as a "ski loader", there are literally dozens of choices out there and there really is no "best" as all boats want something a little different. A good pump guru can (or should)be able to point you into the right direction.
Joe, aka FLUSHER can likely make a recommendation and possibly even be able to facilitate getting you what you need. Also would be a good source for getting a pump built and providing any insight and machine work you may want to persue.
GT
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All you would need to do to utilize a droop would be a simple bowl swap. A two piece bowl is quote literally the input difference between a JC and a JG pump.
A shoe is a part that is cut into and installed at the rear of the intake of the pump replacing the cast in and rounded part of the ramp. It is also the point at which the ride plate will be mounted.
Back cut simply means it is machined at a slight angle as compared to the keel line basically forcing the hull to "ride back" on the plate, I'm thinking 2° back cut is a good starting point, this means the rear most portion of the shoe is 2° "higher" than the front.
It will allow you to fly the bow more than with a stock intake and make it "adjustable" by replacing the shoe. The intake will need to be machined for this modification.
As for a loader, they are a little bit of a trial and error thing, stay away from the ones marketed as a "ski loader", there are literally dozens of choices out there and there really is no "best" as all boats want something a little different. A good pump guru can (or should)be able to point you into the right direction.
Joe, aka FLUSHER can likely make a recommendation and possibly even be able to facilitate getting you what you need. Also would be a good source for getting a pump built and providing any insight and machine work you may want to persue.
GT
Wow thanks for the info its been helpful gives me some options thanks a lot