I need some opinions here. I now have decent size crack on the left side of the hull, starting about where driver sits. Crack runs about 3' long and follows the strake. My gut feel is there was stringer failure under the floor for this to happen and a couple hard hits on the water cracked it.

So what is an average to fix the crack and possible stringer replacements?

I would only need that work done and I think I can handle the new floor and interior work.

I thought I would never have to worry about a Hallett hull cracking, but its just my luck.

Thanks.

Hull is gonna have to come off the trailer and be flipped.

-beerjet-

What did that cost you? If you don't mind me asking...I just have a wedding coming up and planning on buying a house. So I have to figure out if I can start it now or wait a season.

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Pats Fiberglass in Upland. Don is top shelf. I actually had the exact same repair done. Your right, one stringer was wasted. I had to pull the motor. Don removed the floor, ground down the entire hull, replaced stringers and bulkheads, laid a new hull, installed a new floor, flipped the boat and re gel coated the bottom. GREAT job. Good luck


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Well Ive started with the insurance and we will see how that plays out. Regardless, I'll be chopping out the floors in a few weeks.

Any tips on keeping from ruining the edges of hull where it meets the floor? Should it be smooth when done? Or keep some type of lip?

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i used a sawzall, believe or not.   i angled the blade back, so that tool itself was almost parallel to the floor with blade going into the glass just enough to cut. much less dust than angle grinder and just about as fast.  difference, at least with mine, when/IF the blade would hit the hull i can feel it....it would kick back.  the grinder wont kick....it may slow down as it meets more material, either way, it cuts it before you realize it.   i just needed to get thru top layer of glass.  my floor was pretty bad so prying it up after glass was cut wasnt too hard.    if you kept the blade at the right angle, you can see the full length of stroke and have a good idea how far down youre cutting....ensuring minimal contact with hull.  i think i tapped hull once or twice, no damage.  what ever lip was left can be cut/grind away anyway you want/can.  at that point you can see where hull is.   with stringers....i cut thru the fillet.  same idea, angle the blade back....or just stick the tip in \  and pryed stringer up, carefully
wasnt easy to use angle grinder on stringers....especially outboard side of stringers.

keep us posted brothaman! good luck.  DONT FORGET THE RESPIRATOR .....thats glass dust youd be breathing....

If you do have to pull a stringer....you can do so on trailer.... but Hull should be supported off trailer when replacing the stringer. Weigh of Hull can cause it to sag around trailer bunks creating a high spot inside Hull/low spot outside of Hull....which is  bad. Support Hull from corners at transom and up front under keel....off trailer so Hull can "relax" into a more normal state as it would in water. You can place 4-5' straight edge against bottm of hull starting from transom to see if you have a high or low spot, then, you can install stringer. 

This is all assuming you'd do the work of course.

Just a quick update. Took out most of the flooring and located the crack which luckily is not on the stringer. Now its time to set up a few appointments for quotes.
The crack is where you can see the white strip of fiberglass pealing back.