SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Hulls => Topic started by: Ken on May 20, 2014, 07:37:24 PM
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Anybody ever slice the deck off the hull to get up front to do some repairs?? I'm thinking with some bracing, like when chopping a car (I've chopped a few so I'm familiar with it). I need to repair the hull area where the front tow hoop is, and there is some "bruising" around the nose area and if the deck was off I could get to all the areas super easy. My fat ass can't get forward enough to do the repairs from inside reaching thru the 8" access hole.
Now, I know MOST of you would say "get a new hull if you need to do that much repair work" but a few things.... There are not many hulls available up here in Spokane, Washington, I got the boat complete and running, on a trailer, titled, licensed, and both tanks full of gas for $1100.00 !!
I have MORE time than money, and doing a little bit at a time is fun vs. saving up and buying something expensive and built to someone's else specs./desires/style!
Then after the repairs, I would just place the deck back on, align it to the hull, and glass tape it back together. From what I can see, there is only 6" woven roven holding the top and bottom together!!
There is a significant parting line on the outside that was covered up with the rub rail, so I can cut it apart 100% exactly where the halves were originally mated together.
Just thinking out loud while laying here with my little girl.
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I would NOT go thur the top ! you will just have to cut up what is in your way , But Not thur the top bulk heads can be removed and put back!
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Not a chance in hell would I ever remove the cap from a boat. Its a lot more work than just one layer of roving.
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Well crap, I thought I had a great idea! That's why I "think" out loud, and ASK, before I proceed!!
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There is a fellow in Idaho that did this along with cutting everything made of wood out of the hull.
His boat started life as outboard and he was converting it to V Drive.
His family is very well known for doing top notch work so it's all just a matter of going through the process for him.
I would not hesitate to do if you plan on doing EVERYTHING in hull.
But definitely not for some minor repairs.....
-beerjet-
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What part of Idaho? I'm on the Washington/ Idaho border along the I-90 freeway.
I'm doing the center stringer, the far forward bulkhead, which has a small access hole to get to the front tow hoop, that I physically CAN'T get to, to remove the broken one and replace it, (the only way I see to do it is to cut out a hole on the deck and reach in and do it, but didnt really want to do that ?!? Also the bulkhead just in front of where my feet go.and the floor from the engine rails to that far forward bulkhead.
a pretty fair amont of work.
The bulkheads are attached to the deck and sides only, and the deck and hull are ONLY attached by that 6" roven!! No bolts, no tabs with screws, etc. and like I said the outside where the rub rail was (I'm going to cap it with glass) has the parting line where the two pieces meet not glassed together, and completely visible. Hmmmm I don't know.
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Go to Washington auto collision in Spokane at 16811 sprague and talk to Michael he can have one of his little guys get in it fir you and do it, tell him pops sent you for a discount
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
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What part of Idaho? I'm on the Washington/ Idaho border along the I-90 freeway.
I'm doing the center stringer, the far forward bulkhead, which has a small access hole to get to the front tow hoop, that I physically CAN'T get to, to remove the broken one and replace it, (the only way I see to do it is to cut out a hole on the deck and reach in and do it, but didnt really want to do that ?!? Also the bulkhead just in front of where my feet go.and the floor from the engine rails to that far forward bulkhead.
a pretty fair amont of work.
The bulkheads are attached to the deck and sides only, and the deck and hull are ONLY attached by that 6" roven!! No bolts, no tabs with screws, etc. and like I said the outside where the rub rail was (I'm going to cap it with glass) has the parting line where the two pieces meet not glassed together, and completely visible. Hmmmm I don't know.
I couldn't tell you where they are.
That's how boats are built, top and bottom halves glassed together.
Difference being that all the wood is glassed into the hull while still in the mold.
At least in some cases....
It would be easier to just make the hole in the bulk head bigger and smooth and glass those edges unless you want to knock it out, do the under deck work, and then cut and glass in a new bulk head where it's more comfortable for you.
-beerjet-
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Yeah, when I get to that point I'll probably just cut out the 2 bulkheads, fix the spots I need, and be done with it. I was just thinking of a different way to be more thorough, but if it was a better way, I'm sure lots of people would be doing it that way. No need to "re-invent" the wheel !!!!!
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Yeah, when I get to that point I'll probably just cut out the 2 bulkheads, fix the spots I need, and be done with it. I was just thinking of a different way to be more thorough, but if it was a better way, I'm sure lots of people would be doing it that way. No need to "re-invent" the wheel !!!!!
Keep it simple and get it done!
Good luck and keep us posted.
-beerjet-