SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Hulls => Topic started by: OC2Vegas on January 18, 2008, 11:11:54 AM
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Is there a post somewhere about removing the rub rail and fill in the gap and holes the "correct" way as to not get cracks in the paint later on.
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Is there a post somewhere about removing the rub rail and fill in the gap and holes the "correct" way as to not get cracks in the paint later on.
Good question, i have the same just didnt want to ask it ;)
2sav
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Good question, i have the same just didnt want to ask it ;)
2sav
Chicken Sh#t
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i would think Kitty hair its bondo with alot of fiber glass in it i used it to fill some holes in my boat and not cracks have apeared YET .its a pain in the ass to work with though good luck guys just my.02
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Here is some good info that jrork posted on his thread here: http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=1689.0
Through the advice of a number of folks on this board and others, I came up with a plan on how to cap it for good. I used West System epoxy for the entire project and though spendy, it’s really nice stuff.
I took my 4” grinder with a 80 grit flapper wheel and ground into the seam and out approx 2” to 3”. Then I took my little air angle grinder and fine tuned it a bit with a 40 grit speed lock and then finished it with 40”grit on my DA. Right about now is when my wife had to hide the guns cause I just took a cool looking boat and ground the shit out of it……..
Wiped everything down real good with acetone and then wetted the seam out. I followed that with some narrow fiberglass tape and laid that into the seam. They suggest all kinds of tricks to work the bubbles out but I found my finger did the best. I followed that with multiple layers of epoxy mixed with some Colloidal Silica and wider runs of tape till I had only a slight groove left. I filled this in with some epoxy mixed with microballons and smoothed that out. Hot Damn! That looks good.
Ignore my hands in the picture. I put them there so get some contrast so you could see the shape. As far as the ripples, thats just water. This thing is smooooooth.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi63.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fh157%2Fjrork%2FIMG_7333.jpg&hash=755963e179281bf2cb435bcf758d7b837e6c4bff)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi63.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fh157%2Fjrork%2FIMG_7334.jpg&hash=4bb5a86929d7ae6cafa26836062cbc873665bfee)
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Here is some good info that jrork posted on his thread here: http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=1689.0
I was going to suggest the same link! You beat me to it Brad.
:) Greg
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I've always wanted to ask John how many layers of glass tape(cloth) 3, 4 , 5? and what oz. I would think you could use glass resin instead of epoxy. I know epoxy is stronger it's just more $. On one of the links someone put up on my flowcoat thread, it said put epoxy on top of glass no problem but not the other way around. I can only assume if you were goin to re gel you'd want to use polyester resin not epoxy??????
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Old School Caps are done this way... Get inside and lay up some extra glass 3-4 inches each side of the seam just to make sure you don't grind through from the outside. Then grind down the outside 2-3 inches each side of the seam making sure you completely remove the joint ( down to the glass originally used to join the hull and deck together. Then glass in a cap 4-6 inches wide over the seam with probably two-three layers of 6oz. mat. under a layer of glass cloth. Once well worked out remove the cloth and brush down any hairs with some extra resin. Apply a final coat or resin with a finisher additive to let it kick off properly. After a good set, grind to shape sand it down then use only a skim coat of bondo to fill the imperfections and sand the whole thing down with a long flat sanding board. Mask and use a good thick polyurethane sanding primer build it up pretty good then sand most of it off with progressively finer wet-or-dry until your to about 400 grit. Re-mask and paint. or if your a real glutton for punishment gel coat it. Then color sand and buff. This will assure that if you ever flip your boat doing mach 2 the recovery team can retrieve the remains by snagging the intact cap with a grappling hook. On second thought take it to B&K Boat Repair and have Ken do it.
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Thanks for the info guys...Wonder where Tom is?
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Thanks for the info guys...Wonder where Tom is?
i just talked to him....sounded like he had a really busy day.
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i just talked to him....sounded like he had a really busy day.
Making or Drinking More BEER??? ;D ;D ;D
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Old School Caps are done this way... Get inside and lay up some extra glass 3-4 inches each side of the seam just to make sure you don't grind through from the outside. Then grind down the outside 2-3 inches each side of the seam making sure you completely remove the joint ( down to the glass originally used to join the hull and deck together. Then glass in a cap 4-6 inches wide over the seam with probably two-three layers of 6oz. mat. under a layer of glass cloth. Once well worked out remove the cloth and brush down any hairs with some extra resin. Apply a final coat or resin with a finisher additive to let it kick off properly. After a good set, grind to shape sand it down then use only a skim coat of bondo to fill the imperfections and sand the whole thing down with a long flat sanding board. Mask and use a good thick polyurethane sanding primer build it up pretty good then sand most of it off with progressively finer wet-or-dry until your to about 400 grit. Re-mask and paint. or if your a real glutton for punishment gel coat it. Then color sand and buff. This will assure that if you ever flip your boat doing mach 2 the recovery team can retrieve the remains by snagging the intact cap with a grappling hook. On second thought take it to B&K Boat Repair and have Ken do it.
Wizard is spot on but I will add one extra thing that I was told to do by a number of folks on the evil board. After grinding back the glass, take acetone and thouroghly (sp?) clean the area you will be glassing and then mix a coat of resin/hardener and "wet out" the area first before you start laying the fabric. I will also add that if you want you can add some Collodial Silica in the last batch of resin and it thickens it up so it doesnt run off your boat. I built a dam of tape to hold the stuff in there so it didnt run but it still got away from me a couple places.
Good luck and if there's anything I can do to help (besides actually doing it ;D) plz let me know. I've never done it before and it turned out really nice so if I can do it, anybody can......john
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Here's my .02. I have done alot of work with paint and fillers from back in my autobody days and also trial and error on my Kona. First I was told to use mar-glass (bondo with kitty hair). It is stronger then standard bondo but has no flex in it what so ever so as your boat is hitting wakes and such it can stress cracks, so I filled my bump with mar and did some light sanding and sat on the side rail after a while I heard it split what I found is if you sit on the inner edge it pulls the seam apart causing the crack. So I cut a few triangles to releave some of the load and glassed them about 10in apart to the side and top and filled the rail and did some light sanding now I can stomp, sit, make love on the side with out cracking hope this helps Daniel
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I asked John Miller about removing the rub rail on my 1975 Miller and here's what he had to say...
The alum molding is there just to cover the seam, not for strength. However, if you do remove it and just fill the seam it will crack. You have to grind a V into it about an inch wide and lay in fiberglass mat strips, then fair it in and paint the trim.
Now this is for the Miller so I don't know about other makes.
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sounds like thats pretty much the consenses on removing it, is to grind the "V" into it.