SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Interior => Topic started by: KonaCole on December 28, 2007, 09:32:29 AM
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I am looking at stereo equipment online and I am trying to figure out the best place to mount speakers etc. Does anyone have pics that they can post of their stereos?
Thanks
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A brief "low down" speaker placement.
It takes roughly 20' to hear a 20 Hz (very low bass) bass note. So you want the low's (bass) to "bounce around" as much as possible before it gets to your ears. In a boat that's in the bow, usually. If you are using a 10" woofer then the face of the woofer needs to be at least 5" from whatever you are pointing it at. I usually use a down-firing woofer box in the bow. Usually pointing the woofer forward gets most of the sound "stuck" inside the bow.
For mid's and high's it's always far better to use mids and tweets instead of a 2 or 3 way speaker. You want the mids and tweets as far forward and as high as possibele keeping them within 1 foot of each other. In the front I like to put the mids and tweets under the bow just enough to get some water resistance, pointing the left and right speakers at each other rather than at my face. For the rear I usually put them in the sides diractly behind the driver and passenger, hopefully slightly under the sides of the boat to get some water resistance.
In boats and convertible cars you can never have enough power (amp wattage). It takes a lot of power to get the sound as loud as or louder than a big block with open headers!
Sound, or expectations of it, are impossible to describe and can only be heard. All too many times I hear "I just want it to sound good, I don't need everyone else to hear it". For one person that may mean a Kraco cassette deck with the 2 (included) speakers, to others a "good sound not needing everyone else to hear it" means 3000 watts and 12 speakers.
I don't have any pics, I'll try and get "Your Mom" to email me some. His system was done a long time ago and came out very good.
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Let me know what you want to buy I am a dealer for
Pioneer
Memphis
Powerbass
Polk
Eclipse
Planet Audio
Metra
AAMP
Optima
JVC
and some more. I dont do car audio alot anymore but I still order from time to time
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Thanks.
I planned on putting a sub in the bow, but I am kind of stuck on what to go with 10, 12 ??? also I don't want to lose all my bow space as I will be putting skis, vests, etc up there. Also, I am stuck on the rear speaker placement here are a couple of pics.
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So where would you mount a deck? Anyone????????
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So where would you mount a deck? Anyone????????
In the dash?? ???
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Ahh, the deck is my most baffel of all!! I want to keep the pad so, out comes the case of beer and the ideas begin to grow!!!!!
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Just build a panel by where either the drivers or passenger knees sit approx. I will snap a pic for you tomorrow.
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Heres some pics of mine, nothing special just what I had sitting around. :)
rear speakers
[attachthumb=1]
front speakers (the deck is under the steering wheel, dont know why it didnt show up)
[attachthumb=2]
amp and two 10''s
[attachthumb=3]
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Ahh, the deck is my most baffel of all!! I want to keep the pad so, out comes the case of beer and the ideas begin to grow!!!!!
My thought was to modify the pad and put the deck there...center it but inset a bit so pad still stays useful.
Use a full face deck with a flush face so nothing sticks out. ;)
my .02
-Rebel
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Damn bro that's some interior room right there! Nice.
first off... IMO... go with the rear speaker location of propless's except I wouldn't point them up any. For the front speakers go forward about 6 inches from propless's and don't point them up any, if you want to you can point the tweets but I personally wouldn't point the mids. Propless's sub location is a good one however the bass would be (theoretically) 3 db louder if he had pointed the woofer down instead of in towards the center of the bow/dash. To increase a stereo's output by 3db you have to double the power (200 watts to 400 watts) so 3 db is a lot. My personal preference on stereo location would be under the dash in the center, I don't like jet boat's with stereo holes in the dash unless the hole is already there. Once again IMO and no offense meant to propless!
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I don't like jet boat's with stereo holes in the dash unless the hole is already there. Once again IMO and no offense meant to propless!
I don't have a choice unless I want to fill it with plywood and glass. The hole is there and I've got a new stereo so that's where I'm going to put it.
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I don't have a choice unless I want to fill it with plywood and glass. The hole is there and I've got a new stereo so that's where I'm going to put it.
Right. I meant I would put it in the dash if there were a hole already there for it, otherwise I would not cut a hole for it. ;D
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Damn bro that's some interior room right there! Nice.
first off... IMO... go with the rear speaker location of propless's except I wouldn't point them up any. For the front speakers go forward about 6 inches from propless's and don't point them up any, if you want to you can point the tweets but I personally wouldn't point the mids. Propless's sub location is a good one however the bass would be (theoretically) 3 db louder if he had pointed the woofer down instead of in towards the center of the bow/dash. To increase a stereo's output by 3db you have to double the power (200 watts to 400 watts) so 3 db is a lot. My personal preference on stereo location would be under the dash in the center, I don't like jet boat's with stereo holes in the dash unless the hole is already there. Once again IMO and no offense meant to propless!
No offense taken Hotrod ;D. You are right about down-firing the subs, this was just easy and fast (i dont get paid to work on my own stuff). And the reason the highs are where thay are is to get the sound out of the boat. I almost never turn it on when when I'm in it , only use it to supply some tunes for the group when floating around. ;)
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Cole,
Is there a way you can hinge the dash pad and mount it undereneath? That would be a clean look and you woulnt have to worry about water hitting it.
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No offense taken Hotrod ;D. You are right about down-firing the subs, this was just easy and fast (i dont get paid to work on my own stuff). And the reason the highs are where thay are is to get the sound out of the boat. I almost never turn it on when when I'm in it , only use it to supply some tunes for the group when floating around. ;)
Yea, it takes tons of wattage to overcome open headers... and then to have it sound good at the same time (while the engine is running)... Speaking of not getting paid to work on your own stuff, I've got quite a bit of equipment saved up for my F150 that I've had for sevral years, I've never put any of it in except for the deck that has built-in Nav - that I've never took the time to figure out how to use. :P
I asked my friend (aka Your Mom) to email me some pics of his stereo in his boat so you all could get a better idea of what the hell I am writing about (speaker placement), he must have taken the pics with his cell phone after he picked up his cell phone out of a toilet. :D Anyway, here they are...
(These are full size.)
Kind of shows the placement of the front speakers.
[attachimg=#]
same
[attachimg=#]
because I can
[attachimg=#]
sorry the pics SUK ;D
and lastly a new family member at my house ;D
[attachimg=#]
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Thanks for the info. So, components over 6x9's? I am glad I asked b/c I would have probably bought 6x9's for the rear. I was also thinking about 1 12 down firing in the bow.
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Thanks for the info. So, components over 6x9's? I am glad I asked b/c I would have probably bought 6x9's for the rear. I was also thinking about 1 12 down firing in the bow.
There are several knowledgeable installers on this board and a lot of "sound" is theory and opinion.
I would buy cheap seperates before I bought expensive 6 X 9's, but that's only because of the way i like my stereo's to sound. I've never heard a JL Titanium 12 (1) that I didn't like. They do really well with a JL 500.1 I've heard a few systems with one of those Kicker square 12's that I was impressed with also.
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firing down will sound good in the boat. But not on the sand bar. just my .02 I've put two SPL 12's under the front deck, firing at you. But I like four 8's
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firing down will sound good in the boat. But not on the sand bar. just my .02 I've put two SPL 12's under the front deck, firing at you. But I like four 8's
Correct to a point. It will sound better in the boat than at the sand bar with the woofer firing down, but it won't sound bad at the sandbar either. Firing the woofer aft from the bow will have the opposite effect, sound better at the sand bar and not as well inside the boat. There is a lot of personal preference in design. Of course you can have both with carefull planning, one woofer firing aft from the bow and a second woofer firing down. ;D
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HotRod, or anyone... any thoughts on the amount of power to drown out (no pun intended) the open headers?
say in the standard 4 speaker (one at each corner) setup, with a sub (10 or 12) or two, lol...
60watts rms a corner and 400 watts rms on sub? or shoud one go bigger... or maybe just more speakers?
Never done this before but think I might add system to my boat... cars I know well enough, but not boats.
-Rebel
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Ill be running a stero in my boat 2 12s I think
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HotRod, or anyone... any thoughts on the amount of power to drown out (no pun intended) the open headers?
say in the standard 4 speaker (one at each corner) setup, with a sub (10 or 12) or two, lol...
60watts rms a corner and 400 watts rms on sub? or shoud one go bigger... or maybe just more speakers?
Never done this before but think I might add system to my boat... cars I know well enough, but not boats.
-Rebel
I'm thinking at least double. Maybe 150W X 4 and 1000W X 1.
Your Mom has a 300.4 Jl Audio for the mids and highs. It's 75W X 4. On the subs (2 12's, I forgot which brand) he has a Rockford Fosgate, he said it's a 580 but that doesn't make sense to me. He said his stereo isn't loud enough to overcome the noise from the wind (cruising speed) unless your head is turned. It sounds killer at the sandbar, plenty loud enough but it isn't the loudest system out there.
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I'm thinking at least double. Maybe 150W X 4 and 1000W X 1.
Your Mom has a 300.4 Jl Audio for the mids and highs. It's 75W X 4. On the subs (2 12's, I forgot which brand) he has a Rockford Fosgate, he said it's a 580 but that doesn't make sense to me. He said his stereo isn't loud enough to overcome the noise from the wind (cruising speed) unless your head is turned. It sounds killer at the sandbar, plenty loud enough but it isn't the loudest system out there.
It's actually 2 10 inch eclipse entry level woofers. And I believe the sub amp is a kicker not fosgate.
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HotRod, or anyone... any thoughts on the amount of power to drown out (no pun intended) the open headers?
say in the standard 4 speaker (one at each corner) setup, with a sub (10 or 12) or two, lol...
60watts rms a corner and 400 watts rms on sub? or shoud one go bigger... or maybe just more speakers?
Never done this before but think I might add system to my boat... cars I know well enough, but not boats.
-Rebel
I'm thinking at least double. Maybe 150W X 4 and 1000W X 1.
A couple thing to keep in mind here guys, the more power you run (amplifiers) the greater the current drain there will be on the battery and the less time you will have to play the system. The #1 cause of amp failure I have seen was caused by low voltage. So, if you are going to run a system like the ones we are talking about here, and plan on sitting at the local sand bar playing your system for any length of time you will need to run multiple batteries. When I build these kind of systems in boats I always recoment seperate batteries for the system, and either a high current switch or relay to seperate them from the main (starting) battery. Dead batteries when you want to go home SUCKS, and not to many peoply carry jumper cables in there boats ::).
Because of this I always try to run the least amount of power needed to make the customer happy, more power = more current drain = more batteries or less playing time before things start shutting down :(.
Also sticking a bunch of heavy subs and stereo stuff under the bow will NOT help the performance of your boat !
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A couple thing to keep in mind here guys, the more power you run (amplifiers) the greater the current drain there will be on the battery and the less time you will have to play the system. The #1 cause of amp failure I have seen was caused by low voltage. So, if you are going to run a system like the ones we are talking about here, and plan on sitting at the local sand bar playing your system for any length of time you will need to run multiple batteries. When I build these kind of systems in boats I always recoment seperate batteries for the system, and either a high current switch or relay to seperate them from the main (starting) battery. Dead batteries when you want to go home SUCKS, and not to many peoply carry jumper cables in there boats ::).
Because of this I always try to run the least amount of power needed to make the customer happy, more power = more current drain = more batteries or less playing time before things start shutting down :(.
Also sticking a bunch of heavy subs and stereo stuff under the bow will NOT help the performance of your boat !
A very good call Propless!!! Maybe a small Honda generator is in store. :D :D :D
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In the front of my hull, I put 2 10” Kicker L7’s in a ported prefab box, then made a “face” board to make it flush . For highs I used 4 Pioneer 6X9 4 ways (2 under the hull and 2 under the engine hatch. The power comes from 2 amps, 1200 watts for the bass and 800 for the highs. The amps are no name samples ( I used to work for a audio manufacturer. I have 2 batteries to run the stereo and 1 to start the boat separated by a switch. The head unit is a Pioneer DEH-590 IB in a waterproof cover in the passenger side dash with a iPod cable running to the drivers side tucked up to not get the iPod wet. The wiring is 4GA into a power distribution block. I plan to redo the interior and ‘glass in the speakers as well as add a few more to drop the amp down to 2 OHMS to get the max wattage from it. I know people don’t like Pioneer speakers, but I have used them in 4 boats and sell a lot of them and they really take abuse.
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The L7 is a great sub and Pioneer's are usually more efficient (takes less power to make them as loud as...) than their competitor's.
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I have two L7s in my truck and people are impressed when I show them to them after they hear them and they see that they are only 8" woofers!
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YA L7's are like 350.00 each, and made to hit hard.....
ill be working on my day cruiser this spring and will try to photo the process as to what iam doing.....
mp3 / sat radio,2 amps, 2 12" comp vr subs, 3 sets of 6 1/2 components,and room for 8 to party with a roost~~~~~~~~~~~>
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I have two L7s in my truck and people are impressed when I show them to them after they hear them and they see that they are only 8" woofers!
When it comes to the Square subs they always hit harder than a round sub of the same size. The square woofers have the cone space of a one size up round woofer.
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When it comes to the Square subs they always hit harder than a round sub of the same size. The square woofers have the cone space of a one size up round woofer.
the stereo people talked me into the 8"s and I am glad that I went with them ;D
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when i installed my stereo, i was looking mainly for great sound outside of the boat when at the sandbar or the channel. i installed my deck in the dash, because the hole was already there. i put a forward facing sony XPLOD 12( octagon shaped ) in a ported box. 1300w. i installed two 6x9's in front of the driver and passanger buckets. ialso put two more 6x9's under the bench seats that run lenght wise behind the front buckets. the downfall is that they are at the floor. then i installed two 4x6's under the rear jumpseats, also at the floor. i put more speakers with more power to accomidate the poor mounting locations that i had no choice about. i a,m running a 1200w amp, only running to the sub. my stereo, i am proud to say, sounds awsome. my boat does about 78 mph, and i can hear the stereo at wide open throttle. granted i dont have an open engine, it is still a 700HP Papp motor. at the channel you can clearly hear it 5 boats over and understand every note and word. i think that i got lucky with the sound quality considering my crappy options for mounting locations
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Well you guys have motivated me to finish my set of 4 6x9 box for my "roll cage" any one have some bondo left over? After I finish the box for the 6x9's we'll be talking 8 speakers on the "roll cage" 4 in the boat and one 12" JL W3. Sounds bitchin with just the 8-6.5's. Haven't heard it anywhere but from the driver's seat and I took a walk around the block with it playing in the driveway. Around the block it sounded like someone had a concert going on... Looking forward to 12 speakers.
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... any one have some bondo left over? ...
I believe Beerjet has some for sale.
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sounds good. Thanks for the lead Rod. Any hints on the 6x9 enclosure? Should I fill the fiberglass box with pillow stuffing or something?
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Just to let you people know, I buy at wholesale and sell below retail. I sell to people on the Mustang forums that im part of and stand behind what i sell.I dont do installs anymore because i dont have time anymore. But just looking top help you guys out ;)
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What can you do for a JL 500.1?
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What can you do for a JL 500.1?
I'll get back to you
Personally I dont care for JL amps.They had problems with the power supplies and would literally burn up.Theres better out there for less money.
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Let's hear some suggestions. I've had very good luck with JL's actually, they're the only ones I've had that haven't burnt up, besides Sony's. And this is my 5th system.
Sony's are a bit over rated power wise but they're a lot harder to blow up.
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Well i used to work for a amp company and back in 02/03m there were a lot of JL amps going bad.I havent seen any in a while, but it still left a bad taste in my mouth.I run Sounstream,cheap and take some pounding. I can get a 5ch for about $200.00.I also can get Kicker,Powerbass,Sony,Alpine.I tend to use the cheaper stuff becasue people always want the best but are broke, so i get a cheaper brand and they are happy and end up with money for speakers or .....
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I've got an eclipse XA4000 four channel in the boat now for the tower speakers. Paid $125 for it, brand new. Bought a JL 500.1 for $200 brand new my friend has that now. My buddy that I used to get them through moved to San Diego. If you're truly getting them wholesale, I'm just letting you know that I am familiar with wholesale pricing... I am also not in the business of getting things for free. If you do for me, I am all about compensation. Give me some specs. I am interested. Rod, Blue whoever else... If you wouldn't mind contributing, I am looking to get an amp to power a single 12W3v2 in a hatchback style ported enclosure. Speakers are plenty loud, the 1200W peak sony amp just isn't cutting it with its 225W RMS rating. Single or dual channel is more desirable. I guess you can throw in an amp recommendation for a 2-4 channel speaker amp. Something small preferably but comparable to the Eclipse I already have performance wise.
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sounds good. Thanks for the lead Rod. Any hints on the 6x9 enclosure? Should I fill the fiberglass box with pillow stuffing or something?
Pillow stuffing is usually used to slow the air down inside the box, making the woofer "act" like it's in a bigger box.
JL Audio amps had problems when they first came out, I haven't heard of any going bad in several years. Opinions are like... etc... Kicker is a good amp also. IMO
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Well chit, I will just buy some more horsepower and listen to your guys's stereos from a half mile away ;D
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sounds good. Got you covered Dozzr
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I am looking to replace the head unit in my boat. My priorities are reliability and longevity first, money second, performance third. I'm not looking to impress anyone at the sandbar I just want to have some tunes when I am floating. I am only running 4 speakers and I believe the sub has its own amp. Any suggestions from the stereo gurus would be most appreciated.
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I've got a used Pioneer you can have for $20 if you wanna come pick it up.
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I am looking to replace the head unit in my boat. My priorities are reliability and longevity first, money second, performance third. I'm not looking to impress anyone at the sandbar I just want to have some tunes when I am floating. I am only running 4 speakers and I believe the sub has its own amp. Any suggestions from the stereo gurus would be most appreciated.
The company I work for sells all major brands, but sells certain brands a lot more than others. Pioneer makes reliable head units for sure, probably the most reliable of the brands of head units that the company "pushes". Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC, Sony, is pretty much the order of the brands they push. Alpine is NOT what it once was anymore. :'( They're still decent, just not the best. IMO
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Pioneer for sure. Still the most reliable on the market. 2nd to that I would say is Eclipse.
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So whats the best in your opinion Rod? I just ordered the new marine Sony head unit for the boat... They say you can spray it with a garden hose... For my truck I have an older Alpine that I just installed today. Sounds good...
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"Best" is relative to what you're going to use it for. For old school stuff it's easy - Alpine. New stuff... if you're going to have a basic system (2 or less amps) I'd probably have to go with Pioneer. If I were going to build a large system Eclipse's low level (RCA) output levels are really difficult to beat out of a head unit. Alpine decks are still reliable, they are not trash by any means, but I've done more warranties on them than I would like, and frankly their controls feel "cheap" to me.
The company I work for does sell Eclipse but it is definately not a brand they "push". The only times I've ever warrantied an Eclipse deck is when it had motorized faceplate problems, probably because the customer messed with the faceplate while it was moving.
A lot of stereo recomendation is IMO, just like allmost anything else on this planet. I'm researching "best cylinder head combo's for BBC's on a budget" and it is more common to get differring opinions than matching opinions, same with stereo's and their systems.
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I hear ya on the opinion thing. BTW if you guys get a chance check out the new JL 6.5" W3's. THEY ARE INCREDIBLE!!!!! One of those lil things was BOOMING big time today. While I was at the stereo shop picking up the dash kit for my truck they were installing one. I can tell you right now that thing is a match up for almost any 10 I've ever heard! I think I'm gonna put one under the back seat of the boat, on top of it all they're only $130...
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The company I work for sells all major brands, but sells certain brands a lot more than others. Pioneer makes reliable head units for sure, probably the most reliable of the brands of head units that the company "pushes". Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC, Sony, is pretty much the order of the brands they push. Alpine is NOT what it once was anymore. :'( They're still decent, just not the best. IMO
Pioneer for sure. Still the most reliable on the market. 2nd to that I would say is Eclipse.
I have to agree with both of you guys. Pioneer makes a verry reliable deck, that sounds good !! The only problems I have seen with them are displays that dont work (most likely customers fault) and sometimes a loss of ground on the rca output causing massive engine noise. We have also had good luck with the inexpensive JVC and Kenwood decks but IMO the Pioneers sound better. BTW, I should add that our customers are verry good at breaking things and seem to be extra dumb :screwy:(you wouldnt believe the things I've seen :banghead:) .
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I hear ya on the opinion thing. BTW if you guys get a chance check out the new JL 6.5" W3's. THEY ARE INCREDIBLE!!!!! One of those lil things was BOOMING big time today. While I was at the stereo shop picking up the dash kit for my truck they were installing one. I can tell you right now that thing is a match up for almost any 10 I've ever heard! I think I'm gonna put one under the back seat of the boat, on top of it all they're only $130...
A looong time ago I put 4 Polk Audio 6's in a custom box hanging off the deck of a Mustang coupe. Very impressive for what it was.
I have to agree with both of you guys. Pioneer makes a verry reliable deck, that sounds good !! The only problems I have seen with them are displays that dont work (most likely customers fault) and sometimes a loss of ground on the rca output causing massive engine noise. We have also had good luck with the inexpensive JVC and Kenwood decks but IMO the Pioneers sound better. BTW, I should add that our customers are verry good at breaking things and seem to be extra dumb :screwy:(you wouldnt believe the things I've seen :banghead:) .
Portrayal of a customer... "Honey I'm taking the car down to the stereo shop, do you have any more things we can put in the trunk or maybe we can just put the kitchen's trash in the interior instead." Some people man. :mad: "So let's see, the deck puts out 100 watts, the eq puts out 250 watts, the amp puts out 1500 watts, and the speakers put out 60 watts, so that's a total of a 1910 watt system and man it sounds really bad, why?. :banghead: >:D "Yea, I want to buy some tweets, 4 15's, and an amp, how much?" ::)
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Portrayal of a customer... "Honey I'm taking the car down to the stereo shop, do you have any more things we can put in the trunk or maybe we can just put the kitchen's trash in the interior instead." Some people man. :mad: "So let's see, the deck puts out 100 watts, the eq puts out 250 watts, the amp puts out 1500 watts, and the speakers put out 60 watts, so that's a total of a 1910 watt system and man it sounds really bad, why?. :banghead: >:D "Yea, I want to buy some tweets, 4 15's, and an amp, how much?" ::)
WOW , We have the same customers !!! But you forgot the basketball and dirty gym cloths in every trunk :mad:, and I'm not even going to ask why there are dirty dishes under the seats :screwy:.
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WOW , We have the same customers !!! But you forgot the basketball and dirty gym cloths in every trunk :mad:, and I'm not even going to ask why there are dirty dishes under the seats :screwy:.
What's up with pasta on that plate under the seat, who's eating pasta in a car? Gotta love kids, but the back seat loaded with baby barf has to go... that sh!t discolors your clothes!
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What's up with pasta on that plate under the seat, who's eating pasta in a car? Gotta love kids, but the back seat loaded with baby barf has to go... that sh!t discolors your clothes!
And the "wet" baby seat, dirty diapers, etc etc [attachimg=1] !!!! What do these peoples homes look/smell like :o ! Hey rod, why are there melted crayons, and a collection of peanuts under EVERY seat :sly:?
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All that stuff is bad enough but once I had to call a trucker back to the dealership to retrieve his truckers buddy (a gallon milk jug half full of piss) :screwy: :banghead: :mad:
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Hey stereo guys.... I have an 06 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi. Has the Infinity stereo in it. I put in the new/old Alpine head unit yesterday, found out my truck used the Can Bus? adapter, installed it. Now I need the little controller box/wiring for the steering wheel controls. Anyone have any ideas? How bout a price on a 4 channel amp for two subs. Approximately 200 watts RMS per bridged channel x2. Thanks in advance fellers.
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Hey stereo guys.... I have an 06 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi. Has the Infinity stereo in it. I put in the new/old Alpine head unit yesterday, found out my truck used the Can Bus? adapter, installed it. Now I need the little controller box/wiring for the steering wheel controls. Anyone have any ideas? How bout a price on a 4 channel amp for two subs. Approximately 200 watts RMS per bridged channel x2. Thanks in advance fellers.
::) Definately needs a point of view from a retail type of stereo guy. I hate programming those stupid ******* steering wheel controls :mad: What the stereo that's one freakin' foot from the steering wheel is too far away? :screwy: Oh sh!t, it's happening again :sly: :sly: :sly: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :P
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I can program it and get it all together no prob... I just need the part.
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I can program it and get it all together no prob... I just need the part.
Does your Alpine have a remote ? If not it wont work. You need the remote to program the adapter.
Check whatever adapter you find to be sure it will work with your deck. Some remotes have different frequencys and wont work. The instructions always have a list of decks that are incompatible.
Does your truck have a center console ? The adapter has a small transmiter eye that will need to be mounted somewere and aimed at the deck. If not, sometimes you can get lucky and find the perfect place to bounce the signal around enough for the deck to get it (most of the time >:().
This is just my own experience with the Peripheral brand adapters we sell and others may be different, but IMO duct tape a stick to you finger if you cant reach the deck, or use the Alpine remote :sly:.
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What he said. ::) We use Peripheral as well.
When your battery goes dead and you need to change it, will the programming/memory for the remote hold? If it doesn't, where did you leave the complicated (to me) instructions at because you're going to have to go through it all again. When/if that happens, how many times did the company that made the adaptor revise their product and change the programming instructions because you can't find the instructions that came with it? The remote for an Alpine has many different functions. Your steering wheel control has a few very basic functions. I've never installed one of those steering wheel remote adaptors that the customer was 100% happy with. I've probably installed 3 or 4 of them (in my line of work the customer has to prove one was stolen in order for it to get installed, or pay full pop retail +). But yea, it can be done. :screwy: I'm done being on the soapbox with this one.
Propless, can you get him a price qoute and the part or... "06 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi. Has the Infinity stereo", which Alpine do you have UNDONE? :banghead:
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Propless, can you get him a price qoute and the part or... "06 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi. Has the Infinity stereo", which Alpine do you have UNDONE? :banghead:
I'll check on it when I get to work. We might have it in stock.
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I don't want the remote. The truck has the built in steering wheel controls. The wiring on the back of the head unit has what's called a ?CAN-BUS? adapter which has provisions for a box to hook up the wiring for the steering wheel controls.
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Undone,
I checked today on the adapter and found that there are two that might work for you depending on the model # of your deck .
Heres a link to one on Ebay that will plug into your Can-Bus adapter and plug into the back of some Alpine decks (there is a list of compatable decks), This one is easy to install and not to bad to program. http://cgi.ebay.com/PERIPHERAL-PESWIAKJC-STEERING-WHEEL-CONTROL-JVC-KENWOOD_W0QQitemZ260213046047QQihZ016QQcategoryZ50552QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
If your deck is not on that list you will need to use the P.I.T.A adapter hotrod56cars and I were talking about before. And you will need a working Alpine remote to program the P.I.T.A adapter. Btw, the Ebay price is less than what I can get it for (thay know I dont own a Dodge truck, so no cost price >:() Also here is a link to Peripheral if you want to check out the other adapters. http://www.peripheralelectronics.com/
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Whats the deal with Pyle Audio? Is this stuff junk?
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Hey stereo guys.... I have an 06 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi. Has the Infinity stereo in it. I put in the new/old Alpine head unit yesterday, found out my truck used the Can Bus? adapter, installed it. Now I need the little controller box/wiring for the steering wheel controls. Anyone have any ideas? How bout a price on a 4 channel amp for two subs. Approximately 200 watts RMS per bridged channel x2. Thanks in advance fellers.
I work for PAC, we make the steering wheel retention pieces.For your truck being a can bus, you will need 2 parts(MSRP $80 each), the SWI-CAN and a SWI-JACK(for Alpine) or SWI-X if your head unit doesnt have a wired remote input on the back.We also make the C2R-CHY($169) to retain the factory amps in your truck.
I would use either a 2 channel amp or monoblock for your sub.We also make a plug and play add a amp kit for your truck too.
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PAC is the shit! (Shit in a good way). I used thier stuff to intagrade my Ipod into both of my cars. Self installed and very easy to do and works great!
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PAC is the shit! (Shit in a good way). I used thier stuff to intagrade my Ipod into both of my cars. Self installed and very easy to do and works great!
Thanks, we do our best to be above Metra,Scoshe,Peripheral and the others :P
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I've got the c2r-chy. Stereo sounds good, not super loud but sounds good. I was under the impression that I would only need one more part from you guys... However I've decided to listen to Rod and the boys and screw the steering wheel remote simply because I am more than capable of reaching 1 foot.
Boat is the loud one...
Just put a new head unit in last night. I've heard some good stuff about the marine sony's so I bought the second to best on ebay for $134. I just need to figure out how to turn the sub output on instead of rear speakers.
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Whats the deal with Pyle Audio? Is this stuff junk?
its not all junk, just lower priced gear, i have heard some good sounds from there products, not bad for swapmeet prices, you just have to look into you application of the product..
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If it don't make the boat faster , it don't go in the boat! :sly:
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its not all junk, just lower priced gear, i have heard some good sounds from there products, not bad for swapmeet prices, you just have to look into you application of the product..
Pyle Audio is owned by Pyramid. Pyle used to be a good brand but I would stay away
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Pyle Audio is owned by Pyramid. Pyle used to be a good brand but I would stay away
Pyle, years and years ago, great stuff. Not so much anymore. IMO
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If it don't make the boat faster , it don't go in the boat! :sly:
LOL............... So no boat sodas in the boat ??? ??? ???
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LOL............... So no boat sodas in the boat ??? ??? ???
Actually for every 5 boat soda's drank the boat is 3 mph faster, bring a lot of boat soda's.
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LOL............... So no boat sodas in the boat ??? ??? ???
I don't think drinking in a 110 mph + boat is a very smart idea!
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Actually for every 5 boat soda's drank the boat is 3 mph faster, bring a lot of boat soda's.
Rod, you bring a keg or two ;D