SoCal Jet Boats

Tech Talk => Interior => Topic started by: marty722 on March 16, 2009, 04:19:41 PM

Title: wood
Post by: marty722 on March 16, 2009, 04:19:41 PM

what kind of wood did you guys use? I'm redoing the base and had some pine wood around but it was going in different directions the next day,,,,,

Title: Re: wood
Post by: Mr Plow on March 16, 2009, 06:58:23 PM

Hehe    He said wood ;D

Title: Re: wood
Post by: beerjet on March 23, 2009, 07:16:01 PM

I have always been told to use a cabinet grade plywood.
Birch plywood.
Marine grade is over kill and make sure you sand all the surfaces that will be glassed.
After you cover everything in a layer of resin and glass all your joints it should last another 30 + years.

-beerjet-

Title: Re: wood
Post by: NAFLASH on March 26, 2009, 04:49:33 PM

Plywood. Marine grade is pointless if you gonna glass it or seal it.

Title: Re: wood
Post by: electrowoman on April 15, 2009, 06:04:58 PM

Unless it gets soaked from the bottom  :(

Title: Re: wood
Post by: GT Jets on April 15, 2009, 06:20:11 PM

Quote from: NAFLASH on March 26, 2009, 04:49:33 PM

Plywood. Marine grade is pointless if you gonna glass it or seal it.

For the record, very few people know the reason for "Marine" plywood.

Marine plywood has no voids (areas in each ply that have knots or imperfections have been filled with epoxy or plugged with more wood) and the glue is water proof (most exterior plywood's glue is water resistant, not proof).

Really the only time marine plywood needs to be used is when the plywood is going to be exposed to direct water contact (even if it is coated with resin)

You cannot completely seal wood with just resin, the reason is expansion and contraction, the resin will just crack (like varnish), to better seal the exposed areas of plywood, you should coat the parts with a laminating resin (no wax) and cover with fiberglass cloth (finishing is ok) and recoat with more resin until all of the voids and imperfections are filled, then go over with finishing resin (contains wax to cure the surface). Epoxies are the hot ticket for this because of the product selections available, you can literally choose the viscosity of the resin to be used...

Always use kiln dried lumber if you are going to apply resins, it will actually draw resin into the pores, wet "lumberyard wood" will not pull in nearly enough product to stick well or seal virtually at all....I like Birch for it's straighness and Fir for rigidity (especially over long spans like stringers)

School is out    ;D


GT

Title: Re: wood
Post by: povertyjet on April 15, 2009, 07:03:42 PM

GT is right on, but before you do that, you catalyze a mixture of 50/50 resin and acetone.  This makes the resin very thin and watery and it penetrates very deep into the plywood.  You do this several times to both sides and the edges.  Your regular old Home Depot plywood will last a long time.

p-jet

Title: Re: wood
Post by: GT Jets on April 15, 2009, 07:06:28 PM

Quote from: povertyjet on April 15, 2009, 07:03:42 PM

GT is right on, but before you do that, you catalyze a mixture of 50/50 resin and acetone.  This makes the resin very thin and watery and it penetrates very deep into the plywood.  You do this several times to both sides and the edges.  Your regular old Home Depot plywood will last a long time.

p-jet

Thanks p-jet  ;)

GT