What's up everyone! Had a quick question. Previous owner installed a wedge with thick side up. Well theres one gasket and its between the wedge and nozzle. This gasket blew to pieces and i have water shooting up under acceleration.  Being a noob lets say I take the wedge off, do I need a gasket between the nozzle and I guess you would call bowl? With no water leaks? And if I leave the wedge on should there be two gaskets on both sides of the wedge? My pump is a dominator and I think its a early 12 s. No ribs where it say dominator. Hard to read but the only pump numbers I see under the inspection plate is 042393757... what dominator.actor do I have ??
 

Really! So i think I will remove the nozzle and  remove what's left of the gasket and reinstall with no gaskets. Oh and I will flip the wedge too.

Wedge might have been installed that way for a reason.  Possible porpoising issue or ski boat.   Do you have a droop, diverter or angled pin?

This boat has a very bad problem getting squirrelly at high speeds. Lets say you had car lanes on a lake... you will be hauling ass and all of a sudden you change 3 lanes left or right sliding .then the boat grabs the water causing the boat to almost flip... yes I know it sounds crazy but very true. So the previous owner installed the wedge thinking keeping the bow down will help prevent left to right sliding. He also installed a bigger rudder or fin on the nozzle. All those did not help... pump does have a ride plate... seems to do it too with jetavator up. Last owner gave up. What do you think lol?

Interesting ....if you have your jetavator and its down the bow is tends to stay down... kinda acts like a trim tab right? Wouldn't the wedge so the same with thick side up? Not saying your wrong tho just learning here

I should have said wedging the snoot down is what lowers thrust, not pointing nozzle down.

This is basic theory behind all droop snoots, lower thrust and get the boat bow of the boat out of the water.

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Me fix.

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I have a small bolt on skeg/fin in front of the intake grate. My hull once on plane would run very loose and porpoise even with fin but would steer okay. Now that I have the straight snoot(further thrust)....it runs/steers more solid and doesn't seem to bounce over chop.

ok heres the pics of my pump, i just noticed that my "ride plate" if it is one is angled pretty far up? on a 19 formula should it be even or some what angled down? also, my steering wheel prob has 4 inches of play before it starts to turn the nozzle of the pump. to me that is not normal at all. what do you think? and my steering cable is a rotary type which i dont know if you can adjust. the problem with my boat is at high speeds it gets out of control left to right. 2012-05-12_15-54-53_103.jpg (0 kB - downloaded 436 times.)

I would like to replace the bowl gasket because its torn... I cannot decide if i want to keep the wedge yet... I'm leaning on keeping it with thick side down instead of up. So the steering nozzle is off... ride plate screws to bowl .. the ones you adjust ride plate are out... 6 of of 8 bowl bolts are loose and i I'm afraid of breaking something loosing the other two. These two bolts are the ones where the angle iron is to adjust ride plate. Should i loosen them and hope for the best? Opinions? Maybe there's thread lock on the bolts? all I know is I will have a heart attack if i brake the bowl or something

That's the first Dominator insert pump I think I've seen. Pretty much the same as a Berk JE/JF but with a split bowl.

Ride plate looks a little "cranked way up" there to me, which probably isn't helping, but what kind of power you hitting this thing with?

One thing the regular style intakes have are stabilizing fins under the boat. The JE, and yours obviously, don't have those and can get quite squirrely when enough HP is applied. Berk used to make add-on fins that are attached to either side of the intake opening under the boat and bolted through the hull. Might be some floating around out there, but would probably sooner find an honest politician with the name Obama. So that's out without having someone like Nick whip up custom ones.

It does appear they were trying to force the bow down with that wedge, ride plate adjustment and probably ran the diverter down as well. This would actually inflate the problem, not correct it. This would force the bow down and effectively make the back of the boat feel "light". This isn't a car, it steers from it's ass, different physics and it's keester needs to remain firmly planted in the water. I would lower that rideplate so it is even with the keel to start, flip the wedge around as you planned, and play with diverter settings first. You'll probably end up with a sweet spot with the ride plate in the 1*-2* range up as already indicated before you are done. This is simply a try, test, try again, test again scenario, but sould get you a good starting point.

I would also consider a loader to replace that intake grate.

Ray

Edit: Tha tis a nylon wedge, should be grooved on mating surfaces and no gaskets needed. I habitually use a thin coat of sillycone, however.

   

I forgot to mention its a stock mkv 454 from marine power... roughly 300 hp