SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: BCouey on January 08, 2016, 09:13:04 AM
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this is off the intake I just popped out of my tx19 project, looks kinda hokey to me and it's a cast material. The cast part almost makes me think it was some kind of production or standard aftermarket part that was available off the shelf. I'm also curious about the five bolts across the back and the position of the other four bolts. The shoes I have in my other boat have bolt holes much closer to the front tips of the shoe which seems like a better mounting method.
Is the this type of shoe here garbage or can you buy solid new replacements that would work at triple digit speeds? Otherwise I have a stock berk intake I can have machined for mpd or someone's shoes and run that. Or I'm considering low pro
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this is off the intake I just popped out of my tx19 project, looks kinda hokey to me and it's a cast material. The cast part almost makes me think it was some kind of production or standard aftermarket part that was available off the shelf. I'm also curious about the five bolts across the back and the position of the other four bolts. The shoes I have in my other boat have bolt holes much closer to the front tips of the shoe which seems like a better mounting method.
Is the this type of shoe here garbage or can you buy solid new replacements that would work at triple digit speeds? Otherwise I have a stock berk intake I can have machined for mpd or someone's shoes and run that. Or I'm considering low pro
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Here's the pics
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The shoes I run in my current boat look just like this one from B1's website
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The differences are between a back cut, flat cut, and tapered cut shoe. That primarily determines ride plate depth and how much lift will be generated.
Then there is biting edge depth (relative to the keel) and opening size, which influences the amount of water the pump receives (and to a lesser degree, lift).
That shoe may be perfect for what your boat wants, or you can fine-tune it.
Cheers,
Joe
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The differences are between a back cut, flat cut, and tapered cut shoe. That primarily determines ride plate depth and how much lift will be generated.
Then there is biting edge depth (relative to the keel) and opening size, which influences the amount of water the pump receives (and to a lesser degree, lift).
That shoe may be perfect for what your boat wants, or you can fine-tune it.
Cheers,
Joe
Thanks for the info Joe! This shoe is just so beat up and had so much pososity in the material, plus I would like to have the option of trying other shoes on for tuning. Does it look like something interchangeable with a shoe someone still makes or a custom one off? Since the bolt pattern is so differant than what I'm used to I was thinking of swapping intakes to use someone's shelf shoes on this. I also plan on setting the intake at 5 degrees versus the 2.5 it was at so id imagine I need to start from scratch with the shoe?
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Thanks for the info Joe! This shoe is just so beat up and had so much pososity in the material, plus I would like to have the option of trying other shoes on for tuning. Does it look like something interchangeable with a shoe someone still makes or a custom one off? Since the bolt pattern is so differant than what I'm used to I was thinking of swapping intakes to use someone's shelf shoes on this. I also plan on setting the intake at 5 degrees versus the 2.5 it was at so id imagine I need to start from scratch with the shoe?
You will first need to take a few measurements with your shoe installed on your boat to establish a baseline. From there, we can make a recommendation.
Basically, every shoe we make is custom for your application. We would either transfer the holes from your intake or, if there are no issues with the hole pattern, from your shoe. The opening can usually be transferred from either. Ideally I would like to have your shoe while making the new one. Your existing ride plate will also be compatible with the new shoe.
For someone who wants to spend time tuning their boat, we recommend one or more shims.
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That custom shoe I had machined out or a chunk of aluminum I got from k and h metals ran over 300.00 said and done.
Dollars?!?!?!
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I closed the intake down with a custom shoe I had machined to about 13.5" from 14.5" with minimal gain.
13.5 is the standard intake opening size. A half inch change in opening size ROUGHLY corresponds to 1/16" change in biting edge depth.
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Dollars?!?!?!
Sorry, that was out of line
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Sorry, that was out of line
No your good man. Yeah it was a little pricey having it made one off by a machine shop
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13.5 is the standard intake opening size. A half inch change in opening size ROUGHLY corresponds to 1/16" change in biting edge depth.
Gotcha, makes sense.
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