SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: WORD on May 06, 2008, 12:51:52 PM
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I am curently utilizing a t-valve for my headers. I just cant seem to get it to work properly, for one...because I constantly have to adjust my water inlet to the engine and outlet from the engine to accommodate changing water temperatutes throughout the season. If I run a line up my helm and install a valve (on/off), can I eliminate the T-valve?
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The "T" valve is suppose to operate from water pressure not temp.
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Yes, I understand that, but in Georgia at the beginning of the season the water is much much cooler than in late summer, therefore I allow less water into the engine. Towards the end of the summer the water is very very warn, so allow abit more water into the engine. I am doing this to keep the engine running at the same temp year round. Therefore more water pressure coming out of the block to the discharge outlet and to the headers.
I guess I probably dont have to do all of this, I guess what I just really would like to know is, if I can eliminate water going to the headers at idle, via a valve, how important is a T VALVE.
Thanks for the info
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I did it like this:
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.comcast.net%2F%7Egregaw%2FWaterPressure+Gage+001vsm.jpg&hash=983af1b2a100c65518902c0a58c0bd59505fa877)
you can just see the small valve with the red handle up under the plug wires, to the left of the distributer cap.
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Beutifull state you have there WORD, I'd love to go back again someday.
If you have a lot better memory than me and if you get sidetracked a lot less easier than I do, then yes you can ditch the Bassett T. Personaly I'd never try it because that 1 time I forget to shut the valve all of the way off, at 1500 RPM's and below, then I just dumped a lot of water straight into the cylinders of my engine. Most people seem to run both, the Bassett T and the seperate valve.
I've never run it, but a lot of people run water pressure regulators, by-pass valves, and thermostats in real cold water. You might want to research something like that. ???
I noticed you typed that you "constantly have to adjust my water inlet to the engine and outlet from the engine"... do you have a valve on the outlet side?
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I got a Banderlog valve and never looked back.
T.J.
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I got a Banderlog valve and never looked back.
T.J.
Wow, I just looked that up. Whew, kind of steep in price for the time being. I'll just have to settle for my "T" valve and the gate valve.
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I do have a gate valve on the outlet line and the inlet line. I also have a gate valve on the water line to the headers, before the t-valve. The weird thing is I only notice water seeping through the one back left weep hole when at idle. I hope that makes sence?? And of course it is the weep hole that is directly above my starter....already on my third one in 2 years. Anyway, I have already purchased new water lines, thinking that was the problem..but of course not and I have taken the t-valve apart, cleaned it and it appears to be in good working order.
I agree, that would be bad news to forget to close the valve at idle.
Thanks for all the ideas!!
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Josh , one of the best ways to completely control the header water is to run the water all the way to the drivers seat (manual valve) and shut the water off entirley in the five zone. We still run that setup in conjunction with the spring loaded T valve . The banderlog and other electric water valves work very well too Tom
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"CHECK YOUR T VALVE OFTEN!!!" They sometimes get debris in them or sand and fail to open! And if you have through transome exhaust it can be a big problem.
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I use a MSD Window switch to trigger an electric solenoid hook to a T Valve with the guts ripped out. I simply dial in the RPM I want the valve to open and close on the MSD and its perfect.
I bought the fancy digital MSD switch for $100
Solonoid valve costs $45.00
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Excellent, thanks for the all the help and ideas!!!!
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Tom, I am going to order a battery box like the one pictured (group 27) next week. I need one I can mount to my stinger. Do you carry any like this? If so, how much and what colors do you have? I would rather buy from you...if possible
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I use a MSD Window switch to trigger an electric solenoid hook to a T Valve with the guts ripped out. I simply dial in the RPM I want the valve to open and close on the MSD and its perfect.
I bought the fancy digital MSD switch for $100
Solonoid valve costs $45.00
Blue, This sounds like a good idea, where did you find these parts? Sure seems like it would clean up the plumbing. Thanks, Greg
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I just saw the MSD switch at Jegs and Summit
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Sorry, here is a link.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D8969&N=700+115&autoview=sku
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There are a couple different window switches. I got the fancy digital readout to show off. The cheaper $79 will do the same job.
Here is the solenoid $44.99
http://www.gravity-werx.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=87
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DAMN... More wires to run. :banghead: :) I guess I'll wait until I refurbish the hull, later this year. Thanks.
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I do have a gate valve on the outlet line...
I'm surprised no one commented on that ::) , probably because I don't know what I'm doing either :banghead: , I personaly have never seen the engine's outlet water controlled by a gate valve, seems like it would cause problems with too much (possible) pressure in the engine, but if that's the way you've been running it, run it!
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I thought I saw a diagram somewhere that inlcuded a gate valve on the outlet line. I think it may have been on JBP website. If anyone else could chime in on the gate valve, I sure would appreciate it.
Thanks
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It is an open system. The inlet from the pump controls the pressure. With that said..I do not recommend closing the outlet gate valve either to see if pressure will build..no no.
I have a water control valve on the inlet and a gauge on the T-stat housing so I can adjust my water pressure via the knob on the water control valve.
T.J.
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I thought I saw a diagram somewhere that inlcuded a gate valve on the outlet line. I think it may have been on JBP website. If anyone else could chime in on the gate valve, I sure would appreciate it.
Thanks
That is a bassett diagram and boats have been rigged like that for decades . Appearantly some people have figured out a better way to do it .
-beerjet-
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Appearantly some people have figured out a better way to do it .
-beerjet-
Or figured out a way to charge more for something electronic that just gives a more complicated device to break. K.I.S.S.
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Or figured out a way to charge more for something electronic that just gives a more complicated device to break. K.I.S.S.
Mine is basically plumbed like the diagram . Dont have any running issues . Some people want there boats to behave like a brand new cars. I'm behind Greg on this one all the way .
-beerjet-
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Since we're on the same subject, what advantage is there in having a valve on the engine's outlet?
The more I think about it the less I can see as to why it's even there.
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Since we're on the same subject, what advantage is there in having a valve on the engine's outlet?
The more I think about it the less I can see as to why it's even there.
I read somewhere to slow the water down so to control the temperature a little. In CT. the water is cold in the early Summer so I guess adjusting the valve to slow the water down to build a little more heat.
Maybe Tom or Josh can respond.
T.J.
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A gate valve before the T valve is to better regulate water going into your headers . At no point should there be water coming from your headers . I would adjust mine entire engine cooloing system by adjusting the water to my headers . Worked for me . Good luck with all your do hickies and do dads . Not that there is anything wrong with these of set ups , it's just more than I'm willing to work on .
-beerjet-
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Slowing the water down in the block outlet creates pressure. You don't want freeflowing water coming in and out. THere is a good possibility for hotspots and it does not cool at well.
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Slowing the water down in the block outlet creates pressure. You don't want freeflowing water coming in and out. THere is a good possibility for hotspots and it does not cool at well.
True but I have an ajustable Watts type valve so it will "bleed" off the excess pressure in the system. Those who do not have a Watts type valve will have to adjust another way. This is why I have a guage.
T.J.
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great news fellas!!!! I put my boat in the water for the first time in 6 months. A few reasons why. one because of the lake level (TOm, I agree...I am ready for a civil war with AL and FL). But.....I changed alot of stuff on my boat over the wiinter...wiring, plumbing, new brackets, etc... and knock on wood, it ran like a glove (knock on wood). See I am not as fortunate as you Socals, with year round boating (god bless you all). Anyway, the boat ran great.
i guess I need to explain to all why my boat and lake lanier mean so much to me. The picture you see is my best friend in the world, that always wanted to go with me and raise HELL every time I asked him to go to the lake. The only one that would hang around to help me clean up my houseboat after empty caiges are rolling around on the roof. Long story short. He unexpectidly passed about a year and half ago. It was and is bitch to deal with!!!! Anyway.. we dropped his ashes in lake lanier because thats what he wanted. We had a huge ceremony while we did it. But, now, it is so special to go up there and just float.....watch the sunset and drink a few beers with my boy!!!
I hope I am not sound ing crazy, becasue I am not, i can assure you of that. I am just so stoked that everything worked out OK with my boat and I was able to spend time with my boy!!!
Again, I cannot that you all for all of your great ideas suggestions!!!
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sorry here is his PIC,
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TJS Nordic....I am extremely impressed with your boat. absolutely beautiful!!!!
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Tom, did read about my battey box I need?
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Again......even tonight, i had one weep hole dripping water directly above my starter, all other weep holes are dry. Any ideas.
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After reading everyone ideas, i am still confused. Let me ask this....if no water is going to the headers at all, that will just discoler the headers, correct? but i do worry about the right amount of water coming to my engine and the right amount leaqving my engine.
I AM SUCH A ROOKIE!!!!!
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If there is less water coming in the block, isn't there less water going out of the block?
The only thing a valve on the outlet side can do that the valve on the inlet can not do is add more water pressure inside the engine (excepting Banderlogs, by-passes, etc...).
WORD I'm sorry to hear about your bro. Godspeed.
Good to hear about your boat doing well, congrats!
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It sounds to me like you have some clogged nipples (lol). The brass nips feeding the water can go bad,clog etc. If you have alot of water coming out and dripping really fast you have to much flow. Some new smaller diameter brass fittings might be in order.
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are you talking about these, see below??? and is it kinda crazy that the problem is in one weephole
hotrod56cars - Thank you so much for the kind words. Not sure who out there has lost a buddy that close to them, but it is helllllllllllll. (and if you have, I am sooooooooo sorrrry!!!!!!0.. It is so refreshing pulling my boat in the cove where we dropped his ashes, killing the engine, and putting down a few 12 packs with him.
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again i forgot to post the pics
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WORD,
Sorry about your friend. I like how you pay tribute.
Here is the water diagram I follow. I do have a dump valve connected to the T-stat housing. I do not run a basset T-valve. The picture is just a spiltter to both headers. I set the amount of water coming out of the headers with the little adjustable meetering valve where I just get steam. I could make them a little wetter if I need to.
Picture courtesy of banderlog.
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I run a ball valve attached to the stringer just in front of my seat. Totally redneck, but it works. I use it in conjunction with the bassett valve. I eventually want to run one of these billet valves and mount under my jet gate controller.
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=headervalveman
Auto Marine Engineering in Glendora, CA has them too for about the same price. Dad bought one of these years ago and they work really good!!!
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Another cool idea is the LPHV (low pressure high volume) cooling system. It utilizes full unrestricted water flow into and out of the engine, but uses a water bypass regulator set to 12psi to drop the water pressure down, allowing you to be able to run full water volume to the engine without overpressurizing. It also uses a marine thermostat setup to keep temperature constant no matter what the water temp is.
Your header water with this setup is plumbed off of the intake manifold's water crossover. A gate valve goes in between the T valve and the crossover. If the gate valve is set correctly, your headers will shut off at idle and when they do come on you'll have just enough water to create steam coming from the headers. If you have too much water to the headers that also means they're not shutting off at idle with this type of system. Once your header water and your bypass regulator are set, you'll never need to adjust the whole system again...it runs itself. Plus you'll have constant temp readings regardless of your RPM.
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Josh call me I'll "splain" ya how to fix this Bro ! Tom