Bassett T valve...

« **on:** May 19, 2009, 06:57:51 pm »

Got a T valve and curiosity got to me to open it up and check it out

Did so and it was empty

So I take it I need a ball and spring

Where to buy these items

and is that all I need

From what I have read it could have been nasty if I ran it without them

« **Reply #1 on:** May 19, 2009, 07:22:00 pm »

Yep the ball and spring act as kind of a ghetto pres. regulator, to keep the headers dry at idle. I would think you could get parts from bassett, or Tom(jbp). Worst case sinerio(sp?) a new valve is only 75.00 bucks or so. If you run it the way it is your oil could turn into a milkshake.

« **Reply #2 on:** May 19, 2009, 07:43:58 pm »

Call Tom or Rex marine, yeah you need a spring and ball.

Ray

« **Reply #3 on:** May 19, 2009, 08:05:38 pm »

I ordered the spring from Rex last year for 7.99, But it ended up costing me 52.66 because I did not tell them " not to ship it overnight" wich took three days anyway. I will always order from Toms shop now....

« **Reply #4 on:** May 19, 2009, 10:05:39 pm »

Quote from: jjpp250 on May 19, 2009, 08:05:38 pm

I ordered the spring from Rex last year for 7.99, But it ended up costing me 52.66 because I did not tell them " not to ship it overnight" wich took three days anyway. I will always order from Toms shop now....

Geeezus are you serious??

76 nordic if you bought it new someone "owes you" if not we have the kits in stock Cheap Tom

« **Reply #5 on:** May 19, 2009, 10:52:08 pm »

Werd!

Dude you got ass-phucked on that ordeal!

Ray

« **Reply #6 on:** May 20, 2009, 07:52:18 am »

Thanks guys for the info. Tom I will be giving you a call.

« **Reply #7 on:** May 20, 2009, 05:22:27 pm »

Mark-

Glad you got it all worked out, I guess we can all learn a lesson from this to always look at the used stuff you buy before you just bolt it on. If I remember correctly the guy you bought that whole setup from had a Rex header control valve installed so the T was probably gutted to suit his needs.

Anyone that just jumps the gun and assumes people are getting f-ucked need to make sure they have all the facts before they put people on blast.

End

« **Reply #8 on:** May 20, 2009, 05:28:45 pm »

Skip you hit the nail on the head

And for me, hell I didn't even know about the spring and ball till I read it somewhere here. Thanks Bud

« **Reply #9 on:** May 20, 2009, 05:43:36 pm »

I run a v-drive w/ a bassett "T". I've noticed my impeller going bad, yes Ray I have an impeller, in the water pump so I either remove the spring and ball or turn the spring upside down so I get enough water I dont screw my headers up. I have also cavitated a jet pump and blued the shit out of a set of headers, shoulda pulled the ball, limping back to the ramp. NOW the ole lady constantly watches the water in the headers.

« **Reply #10 on:** May 20, 2009, 06:20:14 pm »

Hd you talkin cavitating a jet by going over a wake with the throttle floored

With the short bit of time how would you blue your headers

Enlighten me please

« **Reply #11 on:** May 20, 2009, 06:33:10 pm »

No, got a little rock stuck in the impeller...it dont take much.

« **Reply #12 on:** May 20, 2009, 06:36:00 pm »

Gottcha, Thanks

« **Reply #13 on:** May 20, 2009, 11:27:22 pm »

Quote from: Luckie Stiff on May 20, 2009, 05:22:27 pm

Mark-

Glad you got it all worked out, I guess we can all learn a lesson from this to always look at the used stuff you buy before you just bolt it on. If I remember correctly the guy you bought that whole setup from had a Rex header control valve installed so the T was probably gutted to suit his needs.

Anyone that just jumps the gun and assumes people are getting f-ucked need to make sure they have all the facts before they put people on blast.

End

I was referring to the $52.99 for the ball and spring kit, Skip, lol

Ray

« **Reply #14 on:** May 25, 2009, 10:27:45 am »

did I read it correctly, that if you run a ball valve (header control valve) and you still have a t valve, you can take the internals from the T valve out and just run it off the ball valve? Because on my setup I have a hose coming from the top of the manifold, going foreward to a ball valve that I mounted right by my seat, and then it goes into the bassett T valve and goes into the headers. Can I remove the guts from the T valve and use the ball valve to control it? because I am worried that there may not be enough pressure to put water thru the headers because I have 2 dumps, one going out the side of the boat and one going out the back from the T stat housing. I also have the little reducing fittings where the water lines connect to the hard lines on the headers.

« **Reply #15 on:** May 25, 2009, 10:53:22 am »

As long as you never forget anything that may work. Hell half the time I can't even remember to turn the bilge pump off if the motor is running. I would think with 2 dump lines you prolly will have issues getting enough pres. to the headers with the bassett. If it were me I'd eliminate one of the dumps and use the bassett valve, and use the ball valve with it as an extra precaution(at idle).

« **Reply #16 on:** May 25, 2009, 02:19:26 pm »

you think even with one dump there would be enough pressure to make it all the way foreward, thru the valve, back, thru the T valve and then thru the restrictors and into the injection lines?

« **Reply #17 on:** May 25, 2009, 02:31:53 pm »

Yeh I'd think so, thats how mine is, except I have no valve presently up by the seat. I'm just using the bassett valve to control the headers. Not real sure what restrictors you're speaking of though. If you don't have enough a valve on the dump line will cure that. I know lots of guys don't like to do it that way(even though that's what Paul Bassett reccomends). I have a valve back there and I think it's one turn shut from wide open to get may headers wet at the right r's. I have a water pres. gauge so I can make sure I'm not over pressuring things.

« **Reply #18 on:** May 25, 2009, 05:35:24 pm »

Alright Maddog my turn to chime in..

...I'm running my basset valve with the spring and ball in it and I also run a header valve up at the seat... I only have one dump line on mine... I turn on my valve at about 2000 rpm to medium... I do not run it on high and have plenty of steam coming out of my headers.. They are definetly hot but not hot enough to blue them... Not sure if that helps or not.. If you have a good head of steam coming out of your headers with 2 dump lines you will be fine... Be very careful of closing any water valves on your dump lines as you can blow head gaskets that way.... Good Luck

« **Reply #19 on:** June 15, 2009, 06:08:25 pm »

Get rid of it and put a ball valve in line with it by your seat...you dont need that junk

« **Reply #20 on:** June 18, 2009, 05:35:52 pm »

Quote from: dodgedoctr on June 15, 2009, 06:08:25 pm

Get rid of it and put a ball valve in line with it by your seat...you dont need that junk

I ball valve it too... works fine and much cheaper, lol

Rebel

« **Reply #21 on:** June 18, 2009, 06:12:14 pm »

Quote from: rebel on June 18, 2009, 05:35:52 pm

I ball valve it too... works fine and much cheaper, lol

Rebel

YEP that's cool watch your tachometer, and open the valve at 2k and every time you go below 2k make sure you turn it off. That sounds better.

« **Reply #22 on:** June 18, 2009, 08:07:05 pm »

Quote from: osbo68 on May 25, 2009, 05:35:24 pm

Alright Maddog my turn to chime in.. ...I'm running my basset valve with the spring and ball in it and I also run a header valve up at the seat... I only have one dump line on mine... I turn on my valve at about 2000 rpm to medium... I do not run it on high and have plenty of steam coming out of my headers..

This is sound information .. We always plumb the supplied T-valve along with a seat or otherwize mounted "positive shut off" ,be that a lever ball valve or billet water control , the T valve with (if working) be the failsafe for the forgetfull ... we recommend all headers go "dry" below 1500 "ish" especially with anything above a stock cam ! Tom

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