Berkeley 12JC pump...need advice plz (1975 Sanger Super Jet)

« **on:** January 17, 2016, 09:07:52 PM »

New member here. I'm installing a new impeller and wear ring. Can I separate the bowl from the suction body? I want to leave the suction body bolted in the hull. Thx, Rick

« **Reply #1 on:** January 18, 2016, 06:38:08 AM »

I believe that because of the Sanger design it is necessary to remove the engine and pump assembly to access the bowl hardware.

I'm sure one of the Sanger guru's will chime in soon with an update.

Welcome to SCJB

« **Reply #2 on:** January 18, 2016, 06:56:29 AM »

I can say the pump ain't coming out the transom lol. But hey if you can get at all the bowl bolts don't see why you can't do it how your thinking. But other wise your probably gonna have to pull the motor and remove the whole pump as one. I recently gutted a Sanger and found the round hole to be a bad engineering idea.

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« **Reply #3 on:** January 18, 2016, 08:34:35 AM »

Quote from: Hammer3909 on January 17, 2016, 09:07:52 PM

New member here. I'm installing a new impeller and wear ring. Can I separate the bowl from the suction body? I want to leave the suction body bolted in the hull. Thx, Rick

You can do it, but you'll learn some new cuss words in the process.

The Super Jet does not use a transom adapter, so it's really difficult to get to the bowl bolts.

I normally change out the cap screws with stainless Allen head bolts, this way you can use a ball type Allen socket and get them out without pulling the whole world apart.

You are more than likely going to have to pull the engine and pump, at least the first time. It's good to go through the entire pump the first time anyway, new bearing, seals, packing, inspect the shaft and so on.

An ounce of prevention as they say.

GT

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« **Reply #4 on:** January 19, 2016, 12:06:48 AM »

Thx for the replies, gentlemen. I think I can make it work, I removed the 2 bowl cap bolts at the bottom yesterday (hardest ones to get at). Another question, any ideas on how to remove the stainless trim ring? A lot of silicone on it from previous rebuild. Btw, I agree, round transom hole was a bad idea...

« **Reply #5 on:** January 19, 2016, 08:23:47 AM »

Quote from: Hammer3909 on January 19, 2016, 12:06:48 AM

Thx for the replies, gentlemen. I think I can make it work, I removed the 2 bowl cap bolts at the bottom yesterday (hardest ones to get at). Another question, any ideas on how to remove the stainless trim ring? A lot of silicone on it from previous rebuild. Btw, I agree, round transom hole was a bad idea...

Slow and steady.

Remove the bolts/nuts from the back and start with some really small chisels in the bottom (marks won't show as much at the bottom)and get it started. White gas (camp fuel) does a great job at softening the silicone (keep a fire extinguisher near by).

Once you get it started, it should pull off pretty easily. I use a chemical spray bottle for the gas. Don't try to get it all with one shot. The last one I did I had six chisels and a small prybar in it before it started to come off.

Use a piece of piano wire or a single stand guitar string to cut the sealant around the bowl. Use the camp fuel or WD 40 on the string to help it along. I use old pieces of broomstick to make handles for the string (wire).

Use some old credit cards or pieces of that clear packaging plastic to prevent marring the paint/gel with the chisels.

Good hunting

GT

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« **Reply #6 on:** January 19, 2016, 08:32:12 AM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 19, 2016, 08:23:47 AM

Slow and steady.

Remove the bolts/nuts from the back and start with some really small chisels in the bottom (marks won't show as much at the bottom)and get it started. White gas (camp fuel) does a great job at softening the silicone (keep a fire extinguisher near by).

Once you get it started, it should pull off pretty easily. I use a chemical spray bottle for the gas. Don't try to get it all with one shot. The last one I did I had six chisels and a small prybar in it before it started to come off.

Use a piece of piano wire or a single stand guitar string to cut the sealant around the bowl. Use the camp fuel or WD 40 on the string to help it along. I use old pieces of broomstick to make handles for the string (wire).

Use some old credit cards or pieces of that clear packaging plastic to prevent marring the paint/gel with the chisels.

Good hunting

GT

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Holy MacGyver!!! Lol

« **Reply #7 on:** January 19, 2016, 08:38:05 AM »

Quote from: FordLover on January 19, 2016, 08:32:12 AM

Holy MacGyver!!! Lol

Lol,

I have probably done two hundred Berkeley pumps, the Super Jet is challenging because of the potential to damage the beveled edge of the transom ring and the gel coat.

I hate it when they are put together with 5200. That stuff is unreal.

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« **Reply #8 on:** January 19, 2016, 04:35:39 PM »

I just took a screw driver and wacked away at it from inside the boat side to side top to bottom. In the holes the bolts came out of. Popped right off

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« **Reply #9 on:** January 20, 2016, 02:37:25 AM »

Hey Rick. BTW welcome. I grew up 2 miles from Sanger's original shop. I love the smell of fiberglass in the mourning. Sanger's. ....luv em all!

« **Reply #10 on:** January 20, 2016, 06:01:36 AM »

Good morning, I have 1986, Sanger, stock 454, with Berkeley jet. ?
I have a short riding plate, been testing on the water, still not happy. Can anyone help with this thank you. JGM

« **Reply #11 on:** January 20, 2016, 06:24:35 AM »

Quote from: Johnnymac on January 20, 2016, 06:01:36 AM

Good morning, I have 1986, Sanger, stock 454, with Berkeley jet. ?
I have a short riding plate, been testing on the water, still not happy. Can anyone help with this thank you. JGM

Start a thread, describe what you have going on and what you have done to try and solve it.

GT

« **Reply #12 on:** January 22, 2016, 11:21:26 PM »

Quote from: vwagon13 on January 20, 2016, 02:37:25 AM

Hey Rick. BTW welcome. I grew up 2 miles from Sanger's original shop. I love the smell of fiberglass in the mourning. Sanger's. ....luv em all!

Cool man, my step-father bought his 1975 Super Jet directly from the factory new. I can't remember if Sanger Boats had already moved to Fresno by then...

« **Reply #13 on:** January 27, 2016, 12:30:41 AM »

Hello again, GT Jets...I'm having difficulty removing the tiller shaft holding the nozzle in place, any suggestions? Should it go up or down? Rick

« **Reply #14 on:** January 27, 2016, 08:34:04 AM »

Quote from: Hammer3909 on January 27, 2016, 12:30:41 AM

Hello again, GT Jets...I'm having difficulty removing the tiller shaft holding the nozzle in place, any suggestions? Should it go up or down? Rick

Either.

Clean everything really well with Parsons ammonia, let it sit on there for as long as you can keeping it wet.
You can use a stainless steel brush to clean off the excess corrosion. Let it dry.

Spray it down with a good penetrating oil. I really like Aerokroil and PB Blast.
Use a brass hammer or a brass drift punch and tap it up and down freeing it up.

Pay attention to to the Woodruff key. If someone used a steel one instead of stainless, you may be in trouble.

Good luck

GT

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« **Reply #15 on:** January 31, 2016, 07:32:44 PM »

Thx GT, the top woodruff key is clear as I have been tapping the shaft in an upward motion. Is there also a woodruff key on the bottom of the shaft? Rick

« **Reply #16 on:** January 31, 2016, 07:59:40 PM »

Quote from: Hammer3909 on January 31, 2016, 07:32:44 PM

Thx GT, the top woodruff key is clear as I have been tapping the shaft in an upward motion. Is there also a woodruff key on the bottom of the shaft? Rick

The shaft will have a key both on the tiller arm and the nozzle.

If that makes sense.

GT

« **Reply #17 on:** February 02, 2016, 11:06:12 PM »

Thx Gt, that makes sense. Shall I push the shaft out in an upward or downward motion? Rick

« **Reply #18 on:** February 02, 2016, 11:14:02 PM »

Quote from: Hammer3909 on February 02, 2016, 11:06:12 PM

Thx Gt, that makes sense. Shall I push the shaft out in an upward or downward motion? Rick

Up is probably best, less chance of breaking something.

I normally take the stubborn ones and drill and tap them 1/3 of the way down with 1/4" x 20 and use a slide hammer.
But I'm super impatient when doing them. I use an air chisel with a brazed over pin punch attachment a lot.

Slow and steady wins the race, but brute force gets you more new parts. Lol

GT

« **Reply #19 on:** February 28, 2016, 08:52:10 PM »

Another question, GT. I've removed all the bowl bolts but the bowl is being stubborn. Any advice? Rick

« **Reply #20 on:** February 28, 2016, 10:54:36 PM »

Quote from: Hammer3909 on February 28, 2016, 08:52:10 PM

Another question, GT. I've removed all the bowl bolts but the bowl is being stubborn. Any advice? Rick

The previous builder may have used silicone on the gasket.

Do you have the transom ring off?

If so you can remove it a few different ways. You can make a couple 1/2 threaded rods and "push" the bowl off using the rod through the holes into the bowl and a pry bar off the base of the intake.

Or remove the end plug in the outlet of the bowl and make a puller to use that.

I have also used air pressure or a grease gun to pressure them off with the oil holes, just keep squirting grease until hydraulic pressure pushes it off.

This only works if the bowl seal in in tact or the bowl bushings are at least in decent shape.

Good luck. Don't break the flange on the suction housing.

In this particular case, slow and steady wins the race.

GT

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