SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: jetjunky101 on November 05, 2011, 10:06:54 AM
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well i want to refresh my berk 12jg this winter. i dont really have any problems with it other than some knocking some times and think some seals could be leaking...so i dont need a race or high performance pump ...but sence i'm gona refresh it ,i would like 2 do some added things 2 it while its apart. any info would be grate... and if anyone knows someone in norcal that rebuilds pumps that would be awsome...and i've herd alot of prices on the cost but...really , what would it cost 2 do a basic freshin up on a berk.... and i was thinkin of doing it myself.. but what are the pros and cons? i know the tools are like 300 or 400 bucks 2 do the job right
thanks in advance
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Subscribed, been thinking about this too. More for just price of mind.
Sent while on the run, or sitting at work bored
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About 20yrs ago I rebuilt 2 Berks in my garage with no prior experience working on them and without purchasing expensive tooling. I now see where there are "how to" rebuild videos on Youtube and at least one of the online aftermarket jet boat parts store has some rebuild videos. I'd try it first before I'd pay to have it done! Good luck!
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i think JBP is close to you...
Jet Boat Performance
Phone:
(805) 466-4719
Fax:
(805) 462-0956
Address:
6937 Sycamore Road #B
Atascadero, CA 93422
Email:
jetboatinfo@sbcglobal.net
jetboatperformance.com
I 100% agree with this, Tom will help you out no matter what your doing, Do it yourself and buy a rebuild kit and parts from them or have them do the complete rebuild and they will help you and answer ANY questions you may have, GREAT people to deal with, I live in Pennsylvania and Tom and his family has helped me and treated me like a next door neighbor long time friend of the family to the point that I now consider him a family friend and I never even seen or met him. I won't even think about dealing with anyone else about jet boat parts before calling Tom.
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yha yha .thanks guys...i got 2 get over a bad expierence from a few years ago when i first got my boat.. :-\
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well...im gona give it a shot ...rebuildng it myself....ill see how it gose... :sly:
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I dont think I have expressed this enough guys, but this is a tech site - not a shop directory.
No offense to Tom/JBP....or any shop anyone here wants to plug....but when people come here asking questions "how do I....?" ....telling them to go to a shop right off the bat does nothing for the site. This site is here to help people with their DYI stuff....not just tell them to call a shop. If that was the case I would just have a Jet Boat shop directory on the front page and thats it.
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The rebuild is not that bad, I followed the Berk manual on their web site and it worled great. Just ask if you have any questions, the one thing you will need is the deep socket for the impellor nut. I made one out of a socket that I cut in half and welded a piece of tube between the two for the depth I needed.
I have never worked with Tom at JBP but he sounds very helpfull if you need him. I did though purchase my rebuild kit from CP Performance, the kit came with everything plus an impellor. CP Perf. is pretty much Berkeley I would imagine you're getting good parts and not the cheap stuff, make sure not to get the cheap stuff! This whole job cost about $500 with making the tools and all, it's worth a shot to try. Again, follow the specs in the Berk manual and ask if you are not sure.
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thanks very much.. and i did not mean an any way that Tom or JBP do bad work !!! was just sayin i had a ruff time with tryin 2 find someone that could help me with my boat...and yes i know CP perf. very well ...and i have already got the rebuild kit from them...sooo..gona start the rebuild as soon as i can so im ready 4 next season....
SCJB.......is the S***
thanks.....really
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well i want to refresh my berk 12jg this winter. i dont really have any problems with it other than some knocking some times and think some seals could be leaking...so i dont need a race or high performance pump ...but sence i'm gona refresh it ,i would like 2 do some added things 2 it while its apart. any info would be grate... and if anyone knows someone in norcal that rebuilds pumps that would be awsome...and i've herd alot of prices on the cost but...really , what would it cost 2 do a basic freshin up on a berk.... and i was thinkin of doing it myself.. but what are the pros and cons? i know the tools are like 300 or 400 bucks 2 do the job right
thanks in advance
In addition to doing R&R and Bench overhauls we regulary "coach" folks thru these jobs , If you have some basic mechanical skills and feel confortable attempting to do the work were here to help , we take tech calls 7 days a week , we also suggest you check out the jet drive overhaul tutorial available on our website , This work is fundamentally simple there are a few tricks and "pitfalls" and lots of folks find sucess and enjoy douing the work themselves Tom
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thanks tom ...i appreciate it...if i run into problems i will sure give you a call....
thanks agin
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In addition to doing R&R and Bench overhauls we regulary "coach" folks thru these jobs , If you have some basic mechanical skills and feel confortable attempting to do the work were here to help , we take tech calls 7 days a week , we also suggest you check out the jet drive overhaul tutorial available on our website , This work is fundamentally simple there are a few tricks and "pitfalls" and lots of folks find sucess and enjoy douing the work themselves Tom
really tom?....(shakes head) i give up.
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LMAO...right on brad...i think i can find all the help i need from this awsome site ...wish i knew it was here 5 years ago :banghead: but now i do ...and all the help i have got from all the members has been so helpful.... :thumbup:
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really tom?....(shakes head) i give up.
Does anyone else find this thread mildly humorous?
Anyway, hope the pump rebuild works out smoothly. Only part of the rebuild I could help you with is removal of the transom bezel and removing the pump from the boat. I used plastic wedges, sharp putty knives and whatever else I could. I'd rather put one in than take one out...
Edit: In fact, I bet rebuilding the pump once it's on the bench is easier than removal and replacement..
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good ...im gona do all the demo...so save me some $$$$ ..the bench work mabe another thing.?? so ill see...either way it will be worth it
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I think most rebuild places don't want to see any boats in their lot.
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here it gose :thumbup:
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some more
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really ...? is all that silicone needed...i found the reason i was haveing some leaks...some ding dong b4 me cut the transom and the bowl seals 2 get them around the cabels :screwy: guess thats why there was like 10 tubes of silicone used
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For the most part everything looks pretty good, I'm sure that impellor nut should come off fairly easy. The only spots you should use silicone are around the transom cover and around the bowl where the transom cover slides over. Looks like you should be able to turn this one around pretty quick, let's see more on the progress.
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There should be little to no silicone neccesary if the correct seals, gaskets and packings etc are used and I'd Mic your pump sahft looks fairly well worn from the pics Tom
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Tom- Do you guys run the gasket between the transon adaptor and the the transom? What's the trick to get it to seal properly?
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yha evrything looks better than i've seen....or what i thought it would look like :sly: but i think it still needs some work :thumbup: well i have a few months 2 get it back 2gether....i got a good start so ...im happy 8)
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worn bowl bearings
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i've tryed all the redneck ways 2 get the impellor nut off still with no luck :banghead: any ideas ? mabe have 2 break down and buy the $80 socket :-\
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The socket really helps but it's expensive if you are only going to use it once, I bought a craftsman socket and had cut it in half. I cut down a piece of tubing the depth I needed and welded it between the two halves, this is pretty easy as long as you have a welder at home and the supplies readily available.
Have you tried putting heat to the nut? I'm scared to ask how you are holding the shaft when breaking the nut loose? I ended up cutting mine off before I had the socket but if you are going to attempt this you must be VERY CAREFULL not to touch the shaft or threads with the cutoff wheel. A bit of antisieze helps for reinstallation.
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yha i dont want 2 damage anything ...so...i tryed a strap wrench :screwy: with no luck ..damit .. and i have a welder but ...2 cut a socket :sly: that seems very hard 2 do without a band saw or something...i dont have anything like that at all... :banghead: well i guess im gona have 2 figure somethin out ...or just buy the right tools :thumbup:
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i give up :banghead: ordering tools :thumbup:
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Where in Cali are you? This might be something Tom @ JBP can help you with, if not you may just be better off picking up the socket. While your at it maybe look into the spline socket to hold the shaft while you wrench on the nut. This for sure was the hard part for me as well, once the nut comes off the rest should go smooth. You will probably need a 3-jaw puller for the imp. or the actual imp. puller tool.
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just took mine off 2 weeks ago . I had to use my cutting torch and a lot of heat then an 1 13/16ths wrench with a 4 foot baar to get it off then a 3 jaw puller for the impeller. Harbour frieght should be cheap for the wrench good luck and no worries with heat
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yha tom is a couple hours away..but just tryin 2 do this myself...gona try harbor 2marrow after my safety class :beer:
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new ?...what kind of paint should i go with or should i powder coat? and dose anyone know what it mite cost 2 powder coat?
thanks
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I bought the white appliance paint from homo depot to paint mine. Came out great and is lasting a long time. Hell of a lot cheaper than powder coating :beer:
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X2 on the appliance paint, cheap and easy.
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X2 on the appliance paint, cheap and easy.
Agree with the paint , although most of out new Jet drive Castings are powder coated, this is done in tightly controlled conditions , we typically use epoxy paints to recoat and restore as we have encountered problems with "job shop"re-powder coated bowls and suctions in the past , our foundry cheif engineer recently explained that it not so much the re-coating but rather the temps and perhaps poor control by the individual coater that could create casting distortion and thus alignment or fitment issues Tom
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Tom- Do you guys run the gasket between the transon adaptor and the the transom? What's the trick to get it to seal properly?
Missed this earlier but that question , honestly depends on the situation , if properly installed the original bowl O'ring and transom adaptor gasket on berk type application works very well , this is especially handy if one is planning to make impeller changes right away , the silicone "install" is more permanent and definately "dicey" to remove and clean , it (silicone) also seals well when everything is clean and done correctly Tom
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thanks 4 the info :thumbup: but im doing this on a hella budget so i went the paint way
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Looks like new, any luck with the impeller nut?
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yha when i went 2 harbor on sat. guess what was right across the street...a boat shop..well they have those wake things >:D haha but the guy that dose the shop work use to race jets ..so he has the tools :thumbup: so hes gona help me out ...i just have 2 get back over there sometime this week...but with thanksgiving....i mite have 2 wait till next week
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yha well that sucked... :banghead: strike 2....i was thinkin the dude was gona help me out and then i get there and he was gona charge me an hr fee ...that just so happens 2 be the same price as the tools :banghead: man i know times are tuff but....
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Did you end up ordering the tools? Probably better off having what you need in your tool box and get the experiance first hand by doing it yourself.
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I just broke two pumps apart yesterday. Since I didn't have a wrench or socket that size, I used the handy cutting torch. In about 2 minutes I had cut alternate sides of the nut and then a good whack with a hammer/chisel and it popped right off. Sure I have to buy a new imp nut now but it beat the hassle of trying to get the nuts off the conventional way. Do you have access to a cutting torch?
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you still have to tighten up the new one
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That's true but its easier to tighten up a new nut then break free an old one. On mine, they were both buggered up, matter of fact one had been welded on so I assume someone had tried something extreme to either get it off or tighten it up. The rebuild kits come with new impeller nuts so no real loss.
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no cutting torch..and the nut is in good shape ...looks like no one has ever evan put a wrench on it soo...im just gona order the tools cuz this is only my 1st boat and i'm very sure i will have another soon :thumbup: if the wife lets me :beer: but thanks for all the info and ill post up some more pics of the progress soon...
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ok so....i know its been a while....but money is hard 2 come by these days ...and with the holidays and all...but heres an update....just got yesterday...finaly :thumbup:
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now i have the tools...is heat the best way not 2 damage anything ...or is there a better way?
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I had to use heat and alot of it, and a 6 foot cheater bar to break mine loose just make sure to hold the driveline end tight ,you should be fine :thumbup:
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cool ....thanks :beer: ill see how it gose....
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well....some penetrating oil and a cheeter bar.....done... ;D...that was easy...
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ok sooo now i have my pump all apart...what should i be lookig for with the ware ring? should this be replaced ? and i have a standard A cut alum. impeller thats in good shape no dings chips ...nothing..so how do i size a new ware ring? thanks for any help
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ok sooo now i have my pump all apart...what should i be lookig for with the ware ring? should this be replaced ? and i have a standard A cut alum. impeller thats in good shape no dings chips ...nothing..so how do i size a new ware ring? thanks for any help
Assuming you have a non sholdered wear ring there is no real accurate way to measure it (especially once removed) without sofisticated tools, you can use a dial caliper to span and measure the impeller skirt and get some idea of what you might need. If your commited to replacing the W/R anyway the impeller should measure (standard) 7.225+ or- (if perfect) , if much undersize you'll need to machine it to say .005 under or .010 etc and the go back with a oversize W/R to compensate Tom
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Assuming you have a non sholdered wear ring there is no real accurate way to measure it (especially once removed) without sofisticated tools, you can use a dial caliper to span and measure the impeller skirt and get some idea of what you might need. If your commited to replacing the W/R anyway the impeller should measure (standard) 7.225+ or- (if perfect) , if much undersize you'll need to machine it to say .005 under or .010 etc and the go back with a oversize W/R to compensate Tom
thanks tom...so is it nessary 2 replace the wear ring.if theres no damage..or should i be ok with this one and just replace seals packing glad...ect..
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heres a little paint pic.. :thumbup:a little brown 2 match
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That looks great, really wish I would have repainted mine when it was apart.
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there she squirts.... 8)
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:beer:
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Looks great, that wasn't so bad now was it?
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nope ...wasnt bad at all ...the worse part was waiting 2 be able 2 afford the right tools.. :thumbup:
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what a pain in the a** to put in with out scraching anything :banghead: and newly powder coated swim step brackets...
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what a grate feeling.. :thumbup:
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Strip of masking tape around the bowl and run a tight bead of silicone around it and call her good! Nice work.
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Thanks for this thread :thumbup: JJ :D
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Wondering why you didnt change the thrust bearing when you had it that far apart?