SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: SeemsLegit on September 05, 2015, 02:17:12 PM
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I was noting some play in my Speed grate before i put the boat in the water last time. Now its gone, Im wondering what would be a good replacement and price for a new one. Also should i get just a grate or something with a loader on it. Its on a 75 Southwind 19' with a 460.
-Jon
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It sounds like you got lucky that the grate didn't end up destroying the impeller. :thumbup:
You will likely feel a difference by going to a loader. There should be some good recommendations coming soon, but being a holiday weekend it might take a while.
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Thanks, yeah i wanted to go to Lake Elsinore this weekend but i think i lucked out when i lost the grate and figured not to push my luck. I just know i don't know enough to find what i need and bow to the better knowledge of people that been doing this for a while.
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Sorry for being lazy and not reposting here. Read through this: Loader question http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=24448.0
Loader question
You can get by with simply taking the rock grate out and leaving it out.
You will get the best all around performance from a loader.
If you tend to frequently suck up rocks, a rock grate is probably a better choice.
Let us know what you think and your questions and we will go from there.
Cheers,
Joe
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I'm going to go with the SS Loader for my 12J-C. it'll be good for what the motor is putting out now and it still should be fine when put some work into the motor after deployment. Thanks for the help -Jon
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Do you know why the grate had play? Were the screws just loose or are the threads messed up on the intake? Make sure they're able to stay tight.
Read the link that Joe (Flusher) posted . He had a post in there about thru-bolting the loader.
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Yeah it had play and the only reason i knew it was gone was because one of the thru bolts had water coming thru it. When i went to reseal it it pulled right thru. so the front side two are able to be thru bolted and the backside 2 and into the drive itself. when i get the new one in, I'll epoxy the mounting surface, (got Hysolv 608) and red Loctite the bolts. I'm a 1000% sure dude before me didn't take the time with it, just because of numerous things that i find wrong with the boat at every turn.
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oh TrollerDave, yet they were old rusted and broken. it might have been the original, not too sure about that. but crappy hardware was the culprit.
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Just to be sure we are all on the same page here:
The four bolts that secure a rock grate are 1/4-20UNC and are blind holes from the factory. That means they do not go all the way through to the inside of the boat.
To install a loader, they need to be drilled through and tapped for 5/16-18UNC.
If they have been drilled and tapped through, a loader might have been installed at one time. If so, please verify that the threads in the intake are sound.
I would not recommend Loctite, a loader is something that you will need to remove frequently for inspection and replacement of the fasteners. I can tell you that it really sucks when you break or cam-out (strip the hex or slot) a bolt and need to drill it out.
If I wasn't abundantly clear in my other posts, allow me to reiterate: If the loader or the fasteners that hold it fail, the boat will flip!
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oh TrollerDave, yet they were old rusted and broken. it might have been the original, not too sure about that. but crappy hardware was the culprit.
Before you put epoxy and the red Loctite on, just know that you'll want to be able to remove and replace that loader.
Just in case you suck up a rope or weeds; to inspect the loader; try a different loader... etc.
You want the loader secure, but able to be removed with out destroying the rest of the jet.
Even with the right hardware, be sure to check your loader bolts before each time you use your boat.
Like crew chief said, " you got lucky".
It could have been bad if you were at speed and that grate broke and got sucked into the jet. And not just for your impeller.
This is from Flusher's post (#49 in the other thread).
ANOTHER WORD OF CAUTION!!! LOADERS, AND THE ATTACHING HARDWARE, NEED TO BE CHECKED FREQUENTLY! Loaders are the one part where upon failure, the WILL crash. There is a tremendous load being placed on the loader, the bolts holding it, and the intake itself. You should inspect your loader frequently for cracks that might form, in the verticals, just after the loader pad where it attaches to the intake. Corrosion is another issue and if not kept in check, can render a loader unsafe. The intake should be drilled and tapped all the way through to 5/16-18UNC 2B. Inspect the torque on the fasteners every trip. Only grade 8 fasteners should be used to attach the loader. Stainless steel fasteners are between a grade 2 and a grade 5 for strength and should not be used to attach a loader. At least the rear two fasteners should have nylon locking nuts installed on the inside of the intake. Install nylon locking nuts on all four fasteners if there is no interference with the oil pan. Replace the fasteners every season to avoid corrosion fatigue. Use a lot of anti-seize to facilitate easy removal of the fasteners.
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Forgot the picture again
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i did have a loader on it before, it was like the one in the picture just a lot rustier. Now (check this out)!!!!!!!!!! only 1 of the holes is drilled thru all the way and not tapped. and the others have clear sealer inside of it. I am severely doubting the mechanic ability of the dude that had this prior. Back on the subject at hand, i have everything to tap and fix this the right way; I'm glad everyone is so active here and willing to help. the inlet is not cracked and the holes aint waller'd out so with all the right tools i should be able to knock this out in an afternoon.
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Is the engine still installed? Is it a rear sump oil pan? One of the most common oops is drilling into the oil pan.
Just thinking, the intake doesn't actually need to be tapped. The Miersch intakes aren't and require nuts installed on all four bolts. Also makes removal/installation a two-person job.
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engine is still in also its a front sump. the flex plate is right above the front set of holes and the aft set is right behind the flex plate by a few inches. Getting someone to come by to help isn't a problem for me. should i just drill all 4, make them all nuts and bolts? or maybe the aft 2. the only one thats drilled thru is the aft right side.
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I'm not really recommending that, I'm just saying that you could. It wouldn't be unprecedented.
Every one I have done was tapped or damaged holes wear repaired with inserts. I would recommend tapping.
Since you have clearance, install nuts on all four.
Good luck,
Joe
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all 4 it is. Thanks Joe, i'll send photos when i get it done and show y'all the progress.
-Jon