Droop won't fit over pointed plug on bowl?

« **on:** August 19, 2015, 04:12:07 PM »

How do I fix this? I certainly don't want to have to notch the droop. Is there a different plug I can get that isn't pointed?

Garrett

« **Reply #1 on:** August 19, 2015, 04:25:45 PM »

Sure can... Call a few places like performance boats or cyclone marine for a used one first. I sold a modified split C with a shallow plug in it. Some have removed the divider in that style droop. The one you want has a large slot across the top where the pointed area is on yours. Looks like a place to put a large flat head screw driver.

« **Reply #2 on:** August 19, 2015, 04:36:27 PM »

My buddy called Tim Place, he said get the shorter nut or notch it. Looks like it's getting notched.

Garrett

« **Reply #3 on:** August 19, 2015, 04:40:49 PM »

If you cut the plastic tip off you'll have a big hole an the oil will come out there.

« **Reply #4 on:** August 19, 2015, 04:44:18 PM »

No, the divider in the droop. I already checked my other plug and it's hollow. Not going to dump all this brand new oil out. I will just notch the divider. At least it will never be seen.

Garrett

« **Reply #5 on:** August 19, 2015, 04:48:19 PM »

This is the style plug you want... call around or post a wtb this style plug.

« **Reply #6 on:** August 19, 2015, 04:55:21 PM »

I just checked my spare aggressor 9 aluminum plug with zerk to a berk bowl... fits. Someone has a used one for ya.
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-15603-bowl-plug-w-zert-o-ring.aspx

« **Reply #7 on:** August 19, 2015, 04:57:06 PM »

Just cut the divider, it will be fine.

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« **Reply #8 on:** August 19, 2015, 05:24:00 PM »

Divider already cut. Going to get some longer bolts then it's going on. Tomorrow is coming up quick. Thanks for the help guys, couldn't do it without the info I get on here

Garrett

« **Reply #9 on:** August 19, 2015, 05:49:23 PM »

Quote from: SSpeeDEMONSS on August 19, 2015, 05:24:00 PM

Divider already cut. Going to get some longer bolts then it's going on. Tomorrow is coming up quick. Thanks for the help guys, couldn't do it without the info I get on here

Garrett

No bolts. It should be studded with stainless threaded rod.

JMO

GT

« **Reply #10 on:** August 19, 2015, 05:54:19 PM »

Well they're stainless bolts, not good enough? I have some stainless studs that were on there but figured I would get new ones

« **Reply #11 on:** August 19, 2015, 06:59:14 PM »

I run ss bolts with allen head on my snoot with 2* wedge. If you plan on removing it alot then studs are the better choice.

« **Reply #12 on:** August 19, 2015, 07:11:19 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on August 19, 2015, 05:49:23 PM

No bolts. It should be studded with stainless threaded rod.

JMO

GT

x2

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« **Reply #13 on:** August 19, 2015, 07:19:19 PM »

Quote from: SSpeeDEMONSS on August 19, 2015, 05:54:19 PM

Well they're stainless bolts, not good enough? I have some stainless studs that were on there but figured I would get new ones

A stud is several times stronger than a through bolt. FYI

GT

« **Reply #14 on:** August 19, 2015, 07:30:25 PM »

I'm going to try to get some tomorrow morning. May have to make a run to mcmaster. Not sure where else has it.

Garrett

« **Reply #15 on:** August 19, 2015, 07:37:28 PM »

McFadden Dale Hardware Anaheim 91/57

« **Reply #16 on:** August 20, 2015, 12:29:13 AM »

Quote from: crewchief22 on August 19, 2015, 07:37:28 PM

McFadden Dale Hardware Anaheim 91/57

Yup they have tons of stainless steel hardware!!!

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« **Reply #17 on:** August 20, 2015, 12:54:28 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on August 19, 2015, 07:19:19 PM

A stud is several times stronger than a through bolt. FYI

GT

True, but is there a HP point were studs would be nessecary? Would the bolts be good for what he's got?

Just curious for conversation's sake.

« **Reply #18 on:** August 20, 2015, 01:09:33 PM »

Quote from: TrollerDave on August 20, 2015, 12:54:28 PM

True, but is there a HP point were studs would be nessecary? Would the bolts be good for what he's got?

Just curious for conversation's sake.

The problem with the bolt is that there is a lot of angular strain on the threads.

When using a stud, you can high strength Thread Lock the threads in the bowl and take it on and of without really causing and wear and tear on the threads.

If I was to say it's ok to bolt it, the holes on the pump bowl would have to be Time-Serted or Heli-Coiled before hand. This makes for a hardened surface for the bolt to go through and not soft cast aluminum.

Using studs also allows for the use of wedges, you simply cannot (should not) do that with a bolt. The chances of ripping out the threads is nearly certain.

I hope this at least explains where I'm coming from.

GT

« **Reply #19 on:** August 20, 2015, 01:52:03 PM »

It will get studs when I get home. Got a bolt kit from Place for the time being.

Garrett

« **Reply #20 on:** August 20, 2015, 02:58:59 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on August 20, 2015, 01:09:33 PM

The problem with the bolt is that there is a lot of angular strain on the threads.

When using a stud, you can high strength Thread Lock the threads in the bowl and take it on and of without really causing and wear and tear on the threads.

If I was to say it's ok to bolt it, the holes on the pump bowl would have to be Time-Serted or Heli-Coiled before hand. This makes for a hardened surface for the bolt to go through and not soft cast aluminum.

Using studs also allows for the use of wedges, you simply cannot (should not) do that with a bolt. The chances of ripping out the threads is nearly certain.

I hope this at least explains where I'm coming from.

GT

Great explaination.

I didn't think about the wear on the inside threads of the bowl.

« **Reply #21 on:** August 20, 2015, 03:55:01 PM »

There is a ton of great information and opinions on here, I too am a fan of studs for added strength, but only really when needed. Every fastener on my boat is ARP stainless, but for the droop to the bowl I’m using ARP stainless bolts and they hold just fine, and I’m also using a 2* wedge, just have to pay attention to bolt length. I’m producing 550 HP and a decent amount of pump work done and my boat gets busy pretty quick for what it is, but it’s not a full blown race boat that will do over 100 MPH and see outrageous bowl pressures. If I were in that category, I too would use studs, but for someone that has a decent running slightly modified jet boat in my opinion it isn’t necessary. Just my 2 cents worth, but do what makes you happy, extra strength really isn't a bad thing.

« **Reply #22 on:** August 20, 2015, 08:26:05 PM »

On my 3rd season like this with a built BBF... had it this way on my other set up to.

« **Reply #23 on:** August 20, 2015, 08:55:25 PM »

The strength difference in bolts to studs is not a concern in this application for non-racing use, the galling of threads if removed and installed repeatedly is absolutely true. That being said my slow mini day cruiser has studs and that's ok with me

« **Reply #24 on:** August 20, 2015, 08:56:06 PM »

One thing you guys have to realize. In am from the whitewater world. I have been known to thump the bottom with the nozzle.
What I lack in driving skills, I make up for in bulletproofness. Lmao

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