I just used construction paper, cut a couple trial and error pieces until I had something close to the contour and then fine tuned them till I was happy.

I used .250" aluminum plate and countersunk Allen heads on the main plate, then on the smaller ones that seal to the suction I used a little thinner material and button heads. I drilled and tapped the .250 plates for that hardware. Now I can leave the main plates glued to the transom if I ever pull the pump again


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Steve-

I've been thinking about 'better' transom plate design.
Look at the "E" pump pic- http://www.berkeleyjet.com/p-421-new-replacement-12je-jet-pump.aspx

Could some aluminum be tig welded to your pump like the "E" pump (flange?), and then make transom plates that bolt to the pump and transom?

just ideas...

Dan'l

Bryan, J2

Thank you for the information. I currently have the plates in the pictures below. They are 1/4" thick and they cover the opening that was there from the old Transom Adapter. Also they are already drilled/tapped for the cord grips and the drain plug as well as the steering tube.

My problem is, when i made them i thought i would just "notch" around the water feed line. That was a bad idea and they leak like crazy.

So now i am going to make a "third" or maybe fourth plate(s) to fit around the suction housing closely and seal off. Then ill worry about the water pipe later, either a bulkhead fitting or something. I wont notch this one.

Basically, im retarded when it comes to measuring stuff, and im looking for ways to make a template.

Construction paper is not a bad idea. If i had an existing set of plates to use that fit better id use those too.. Around the housing isnt too dificult. I have a hard time at the bottom of the pump/intake. My fat fingers dont like to fit in there

Do you have a pic of the water line? I got rid of the hardline and used a AN 90 with about 10" of line to another 90 so that whole deal goes up and over the transom plate. My pump is pretty far back, so it worked with mine but I don't know if you could possibly do the same.


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Do you have a pic of the water line? I got rid of the hardline and used a AN 90 with about 10" of line to another 90 so that whole deal goes up and over the transom plate. My pump is pretty far back, so it worked with mine but I don't know if you could possibly do the same.


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i really dont think i will have room for a 90* like yours. I considered it, but its pretty close to the transom

I ordered a cordgrip that will fit over a piece of 3/8 stainless pipe. My idea, is to put the cord grip on the new plate i make and hope that seals it, it should.

Heres a pic showing where i "notched" this plate, you can see its a rather large hole.

Ok I see what your saying, and yeah that's not much clearance. I just realized my idea about a 90 elbow instead of hose end probably wouldn't work because you wouldn't be able to thread it in. Although IF you could it does look like you have enough clearance for that


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I do have a 3/8npt - 9an 90 degree fitting in storage that i could try. Ill make sure to grab it when i get the boat

Right on, hopefully that works for you. If not are you thinking of just threading the hard line in through the plate after the plate is installed with that new fitting your getting this time? Seems like the other alternative in my mind


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I'll get a picture of what I'm thinking about when my mcmaster carr order gets here today.

It would basically be the same as a diverter or forward/reverse cable.

Okay, my Mcmaster Carr order came in. Heres what im thinking

from the pump, through this fitting into the boat





There's only one problem. The ID of the threaded size of the fitting is a little bit to small. so im going to try to open it up if i can

That looks like it should do the trick as long as you can open it up a little


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Do you have a profile/side view picture showing the distance between the feed line and transom plate? With transom plate removed any way to thread a fitting/hose?

Your latest idea should work but if there is any way to go with a 90 off the pump it gives you a lot more options. Anything with a rigid line doesn't give you much wiggle room.

These are the little things that can be so darn frustrating.

How mine are done...

I'll be picking the boat up from storage tomorrow

But the best I can explain it is this

The rear of the boss for the clean out hardware is 3/4" from the outside rear edge of the transom.

I really don't think I have the room for a 90 but I will try it

Now just so we are all on the same page, the way I have everything plumbed is once the pipe is inside the boat, it's connected to a soft line. I don't like hard plumbing in a boat.

Yeah, 3/4" of an inch is pretty tight.

If you build new plates and want to go outside the box a bit you could build a relief area into the transom plate to clear the fitting. Kind of a many version of how they get a pop-off valve to clear the transom.

Hope you don't mind the brainstorming. Just spit-balling some thoughts with ya. Maybe something new will come of it.