SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: farmergord on October 25, 2011, 07:30:40 PM
-
We are trying to pull my jb pump.we have the bolts out of the inside but I want to leave the transom adapter on.how do we get this.bowl off.thanks guys
Sent from my SGH-T959P using Tapatalk
[attachimg=1]
-
transom adapter will need to come off
-
Some piano wire will make short work of the silicone too.... O0
GT
-
Is there really no way to pull this off without taking the transom adapter off.i really dont want to take a chance damaging the paint we have all the bolts out and was wondering if we threaded a large bolt into the drainplug hole and pull the bowl out through the adapter
Sent from myi SGHe-T959P using Tapatalk
-
you could try it....but it will be real tough to get to the bolts on the bottom of the bowl that attach it to the suction housing.
-
already got those off so now the bowl just slides striaight back???
-
already got those off so now the bowl just slides striaight back???
yes, it SHOULD...but it does press onto the suction housing. you normally would have to wack it with a rubber mallet back n forth. with the transom adapter on there, it will be tough to wiggle it off.
-
im thinking of threading a large bolt with a ring welded to the head of it into the drain plug hole and gently pulling on it while wacking it . does it go far into the housing ?? thanks Brad
-
im thinking of threading a large bolt with a ring welded to the head of it into the drain plug hole and gently pulling on it while wacking it . does it go far into the housing ?? thanks Brad
I assume youre talking about the end cap hole (center of the bowl)....not the drain plug hole in the transom adapter, right?
anyhow....i dont see why that wouldnt work. give it a shot :thumbup:
take lots of pics :beer:
-
yeah its the big center one. also wondered of we screwed a bolt with a point machined on the end of it would it push on the shaft and push the housing off or is there something that might get damaged by pushing in on the shaft and we will take pics
-
yeah its the big center one. also wondered of we screwed a bolt with a point machined on the end of it would it push on the shaft and push the housing off or is there something that might get damaged by pushing in on the shaft and we will take pics
yeah, you would run the risk of messin up the thrust bearing
-
turns out the hole is 1.25 inch fine thread. when I get home from hunting next week we will machine up a short threaded shaft and lightly pull on it while hitting the bowl with a mallet. will take pics :thumbup:
-
we machined up a shaft 1inch and 3 eighths 12 threads per inch. then welded a pulling ring on the end . please no comment on the farmer weld . then we hooked a chain block to it put tension on it and tapped the sides with a mallett.the bowl came right out. now I have to make up a real deep 1 and 7 eighths socket to get the nut off the shaft.If anyone wants to borrow the puller let me know[attach=1][attach=2][attach=3][attach=4][attach=5][attach=6]
-
Can we borrow the tractor too? :sly:
Ray
-
:o Farmer Skills
-
:o Farmer Skills
If it dont work get a bigger tractor Gordy your amazing LMAO :thumbup:
-
Can we borrow the tractor too? :sly:
Ray
you pay the freight its yours I can spare that one I have others >:D
-
so the nut really seems to be on there. we tried a wrench with a 5 foot piece of pipe no go. so i am going to make up a deep 1 7/8 inch socket and use an impact wrench. is it right hand thread???? is the impellor keyed on the shaft or how do I get it off dont see where I could attach a puller thanks guys also tell me anything else to watch out for,change or replace while its apart. the shaft has some scoring where the seal rides dont know if thats critical.i guess I could weld it up and machine it back down if needed.is the impellar nut 1 13/16 or 1 7/8 I just watched a youtube video that says 1 13/16 but mine measures a little over that.
-
Gordy: RH thread on the shaft. I saw someone post it as LH somewhere, but that ain't right. 1 13/16" nut. I bought a single-ended (box end) iron workers wrench from McMaster-Carr years ago just for this task. Works great for putting a cheater pipe over the end.
Matt
-
gord how come you didnt just pull the pump out?
its super easy, and the transom adapter is easy to get off too!
may make you job much easier!
its not been a hard job and I didnt want to chance hurting the paint
-
If the nut is really that frozen I would just drill some small holes on the flat sides of the nut 180* from each other and cold chisel it off, just be careful not to drill too deeply and damage the threads on the shaft.
The nut is stupid cheap and if you think the nut is stuck, wait til' you go to pull the impy..... :screwy:
Slow and steady wins the race...But sometimes you need to get to the track a little faster... ;D
GT
-
now with my fancy pulling fixture bowl removal will always be a snap >:D havnt tried heating the nut but that will come shortly. sounds like the impellor will be a real bugger from what ive seen so far not sure how you attach a puller to it :screwy:
-
It ain't real cheap, but if you plan on doing this more than once, it's better than busted parts and busted knuckles. Works slick. :thumbup:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RJT1&Category_Code=jetpumptools (http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RJT1&Category_Code=jetpumptools)
-
thanks probably not a bad idea :thumbup:
-
after heating for at least 20 minutes the nut finally came off then the impeller came off with just a slight pull :thumbup: now ups to Rivertard tomorrow[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
-
nice job gord.. thats what i like to see :) :beer: :beer: :beer:
-
Mike the box is on its way. The .[attachimg=1]distance from the wear groove to the front of the impellor is about 4 inches