SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: realHawaiianJet on July 06, 2008, 01:00:34 PM
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This has baffled me for a while now. How is a Berkeley JC bowl converted to a split bowl? Is it just cut off, until you get the right diameter for the adapters? I would think that this would look really funny. Are there any advantages to doing it, over buying a JG or JB bowl? Can I see some pictures of a converted bowl? And about how much does it cost to have it done, and who does it?
Thanks. ;D
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i have never done this, so for what its worth :-\
the c bowl flows better because the vanes are longer, they just cut and weld a flange on it.
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I can take some measurements tomorrow if you want to know where to cut, and what size flange to get ;)
And I bet alot of people haven't seen a factory JC Split bowl ;D I got one right now, going to test it this weekend, the inside diameter of the exit is MUCH small than the other split bowls, hopefully it'll flow better, create better pressure.... but won't know until I try it out
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i wonder how much H.P you would need before you see a difference
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i wonder how much H.P you would need before you see a difference
That's what I'm curious about. I have GPS speeds of this boat before work done, and am going to have some of after. Supposively this factory split bowl is supposed to be good for low horsepower boats, but who knows until I try a few bowl combinations. This motor is a Cheby and is around 400-425hp, and after pump testing it's on to more horsepower >:D
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I've never seen one welded before, I have seen them where they are cut and the end double drilled to use a "G" style nozzle, this thing flowed pretty well, the reason they did it is because they wanted to run a 1/2 snoot and already had thier "C" bowl Extrude honed and didn't want to spend the money again (would have had to buy the "G" bowl and had it honed).
BTW you can't tell it was modified...
Extrude honing the bowls makes them have a lot less pressure drop across the stator and increases overall performance, the only thing you need to do is cap off the inlet side of the vanes and finish those off by hand so they dont get distorted.
Extrude honing, BTW is a cool process that uses an abrasive putty (in varying grits) that is hydraulically pressed through the bowl, cleaning and smoothing in the process, we did about 10 of these 8 years ago, but have not heard of many people doing it lately.
Also IMO the "G's" don't flow any better than a "C" but they have nozzle adjustability...
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That's what I'm curious about. I have GPS speeds of this boat before work done, and am going to have some of after. Supposively this factory split bowl is supposed to be good for low horsepower boats, but who knows until I try a few bowl combinations. This motor is a Cheby and is around 400-425hp, and after pump testing it's on to more horsepower >:D
I'm glad I kept my C bowl then because that's about how much HP I have in my sled. I also have an AB impeller, so as it sits right now, I have a great pump for my setup. I also sprayed all the interior surfaces of the pump with speed coat, will this help the efficiency of the pump any?
If you don't mind, could you get those measurements off that bowl? I'm just curious about this. My JC bowl is really nice inside, and I was told it was sent off somewhere to be rebuilt and flowed, before I bought the boat, so it's a great bowl. So, I don't really want to buy a new JG bowl, when I go to sticking hardware on the back end of it.
Where did you get your JC split bowl?
Thanks. ;D
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Is that all you've got guys??? ;D
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Back to the top. ;D
Ok, I'm serious about this now. I've got an extra bowl laying around that I'm gonna convert. Was looking at it today and noticed that the nozzle area is badly worn. So I'm gonna hack it off and weld a flange on it. It will be much cheaper for me to do it this way cause I can make the ring for $0 and I can cut the bowl for $0 and I can weld it back together for $0........you get the picture. If I knew the measurements, I'd be cutting on it right now, that's how serious I am about this. ;) And I found a nozzle adapter for a G bowl on eBay and just placed a bid on it.
First, I need to know how far down to cut, measured from the big side. Then any other measurements I might need.
Thanks. :)
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After looking at it tonight, I determined that I should probably cut it 9" up from the big end. That is exactly where the vanes stop.
Can someone please verify this for me. Also can I please get a pic looking down at the small end of a converted bowl?
Thanks. :)
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I dont know what your time i worth but for right around the $300 range you can get a G bowl
-beerjet-
I've been really drunk since about 2 pm, so please take what I type with a grain of salt . K .
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I have lots of time and no money. ;)
Sounds like you're having a pretty good day then. ;D
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There are no such things as bad days here at the sunny facility of Team Cold Beer racing in wonderful 90 + degree socal ;D
-beerjet-
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I heard Jack at MPD will convert bowls in the off season, but I also heard its $$$$$$.
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I heard Jack at MPD will convert bowls in the off season, but I also heard its $$$$$$.
Last I heard on this subject was that he wasn't doing them anymore, but I don't know, I've never talked to him.
Also, as I posted earlier, I have lots of time and no money. :banghead:
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I guess what you really need is the dimensions off the G-bowl and duplicate that to keep it all interchangable . ???
-beerjet-
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I guess what you really need is the dimensions off the G-bowl and duplicate that to keep it all interchangable . ???
-beerjet-
That or the dimensions off a converted JC bowl.
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I'll get you dims. off my G.
-beerjet-
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I'll get you dims. off my G.
-beerjet-
Ok, cool. Thanks. :)
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Just call Jack at MPD ( 949-631-2040-after 10am Pacific time.) I'm sure he would help you out with dimensions and details.
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Just call Jack at MPD ( 949-631-2040-after 10am Pacific time.) I'm sure he would help you out with dimensions and details.
I didn't think that he would want to help, since he's kinda the only one doing it. But, I might give him a call if I get stuck. But it looks pretty straight forward, and I think I can do it. I just need to get a nozzle adapter thing so I can do the ring and the bolt pattern and all that good stuff. So if anybody has an extra one that they don't want, I'll take it off your hands. ;)
Thanks. :)
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Last I heard, he was no longer doing the conversion since it wasn't really cost effective. Call him BEFORE you start, so you can avoid making any critical mistakes.
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Last I heard, he was no longer doing the conversion since it wasn't really cost effective. Call him BEFORE you start, so you can avoid making any critical mistakes.
Ok, I'll give him a call tomorrow and see what he has to say about it. It shouldn't be too expensive for me, my time is free and I should be able to get the material for the ring for free, if we have a piece that will work on the shelf.
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I've been told that the longer vanes in the C bowl flow better and that a properly done conversion will outflow a G or B bowl. My buddies 18' CP has it done and I have no idea if it actually works better. I talked with Jack about it a while back and the jist I got was that it was not an efficient use of money for the gains that would be seen. It's not cheap to do and I got the feeling that he wasn't real interested in taking on the project.
If anybody wants to try, I've got two C bowls that have been flowed that would make good starting points. Jason
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I talked with Jack about it a while back and the jist I got was that it was not an efficient use of money for the gains that would be seen.
thats just it....theres MANY other things you can spend your money on and get some more speed out of your boat.....the c bowl conversion is ideal for the guy chasin 10ths of a second to shave off his ET.
best bang for your buck = loader (with or without bearings)
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thats just it....theres MANY other things you can spend your money on and get some more speed out of your boat.....the c bowl conversion is ideal for the guy chasin 10ths of a second to shave off his ET.
best bang for your buck = loader (with or without bearings)
Come on Brad, everyone knows that loaders with bearings will pick up at least 5mph over loaders with out bearings ;D
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I've been told that the longer vanes in the C bowl flow better and that a properly done conversion will outflow a G or B bowl. My buddies 18' CP has it done and I have no idea if it actually works better. I talked with Jack about it a while back and the jist I got was that it was not an efficient use of money for the gains that would be seen. It's not cheap to do and I got the feeling that he wasn't real interested in taking on the project.
If anybody wants to try, I've got two C bowls that have been flowed that would make good starting points. Jason
Yeah, I've heard that too. But I could really care less if the converted C bowl can outflow a G bowl. I'm going to be attempting the conversion myself, on a worn out C bowl that I have laying around that came free with the boat, so if it doesn't work out then I have lost nothing that wasn't already gone to begin with. However, I am not trying this on my good bowl, that is currently on the boat, which has been flowed and blueprinted at some point. ;) The only reason I'm going to attempt the conversion is because I don't have the money to slap down on a G bowl, unless somebody has one that they're willing to let go of.....for cheap, lol. ;D But I should be able to do the conversion for next to nothing. I want to try a droop on my boat to see if it makes it ride a little better, and compensate for some of the hook in the bottom of my boat. :P When I make the ring that is welded on, I'm going to make 2 so that if it does work out, and doesn't prove to be a royal pain in the ass, then I will try it on my good bowl as well. And sell the other one so I can buy a droop, the only problem with the bowl I'm attempting this on is that the nozzle area is badly worn, but that gets cut off in the conversion, so......
I really need to get a picture looking into the nozzle end of a converted bowl, and a few measurements off the bowl, before I can start.
Thanks. :)
Oh, and my boat doesn't like loaders, bogs the pump down too much, lowering my already low engine rpm. ;) At least that's what the loader I tried did.
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HJ, this would be a real good day to call Jack. He had a pretty good day at the races yesterday. MPD had a hand, in one way or another, in every winning jet boat and that included sweeping the E.T. brackets.
He is usually there til about 10pm.
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I agree Brad. just realized my typo, I meant to say it is an inefficient use of money.... :P
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BTW, realhawaiian, if you've got the bowl and are willing to try it, why not??? Make sure to post pics of the project. If you kill the bowl, give me a call. I've got another c bowl that's been flowed I' ll give ya real cheap... RD