ok i had through the hull logs on my boat this year and just got my headers i got the whole concept on plumbing them i have a gate valve at the jet pump to restrict water into the engine i have the tee valve coming out of one side of the water outlet housing and i have the other side of the water outlet housing going to a overboard dump with another gate valve is that correct plumbing?

also what rpm are you guys bringing the water to the headers on i was figuring about 2500rpm id that fine?

next how do i want to go about setting the engine temp and header injectioni fugured i would leave the valve on the exit side open and get the temp set with the valve at the pump and then once i got that set i would start closing off the valve at the overboard dump to get the headers to come in at the rite rpm....thanks dj

From what I've learned from these guys, and my own experiences, valves at the pump to limit water to the engine and on the O/B dump are unnecessary. Put them on Moo, but they are wide open ALL THE TIME, never a need to choke them, save for the one at the pump I use to limit water to the pump and flow more through the engine when on the hose. Seems when I tried to choke the O/B dump line to increase operating temps, that intensified another problem I had with too much water to the headers.

One thing I did do, however, that I seem to tweak constantly is a ball valve before the Header T valve. Without it, I seem to run overly wet and the weepholes are literally spewing water, even at idle. 2 different T valves, A Rewarder and a Bassett. Doesn't take much to get it right, ball valves are twitchy, but it works in my situation. I beleive reversion could be a big issue on that engine, however.

I'm thinking of the banderlog setup or a mini valve at the seat for it for next season.

In probably 95% or more cases, the diagram Skip posted for you is perfectly fine and optimal. (Although I would recommend a sand filter on the jet pump side.)

Ray

Set the water up to the headers like the diagram Skip posted (or ours below) , the water should start misting thru the headers around 1200 to 1500 Rpms , the "adjustments to the valves are a "fine tickeling act" and may require some trial and error .Start with the jet inlet wide open the header OB dump wide open and the  header injection feed about 50% Go out and accelerate out of the 5 and watch the mist (takes a few seconds) The amount of "water and steam" will look different on cold and hot days" Once the water from the headers is satisfactory to you start making adjustments for more temp less water etc till its the way you want it Call if this is confusing Happy to help Tom
 ps one variation we always do is to have a 3rd gate valve either at the intake or at the drivers seat between the water source to the T valve this allows even greater adjustment and also complete shut of of the header water for the "hard pass"

 JBP  header water routing link : http://www.jetboatperformance.com/index.php?p=wrouting

note water valve on intake near Tstat hsg

OK answer me this please,
what is the point of having the water lines on the headers.

Water cools the Headers enough (if done right) to stop all that chrome from turning pretty colors, Most states require water cooled exhaust also.

o
when i changed motors i never hooked them back up, the headers are coated, and i have the baffuls in so i guess i ve been lucky that i havent got messed with then. didnt know it was required by some states. thanks

I could find the Cali book to see but pretty sure it said water injected was required there. Sure someone will chime in if I am wrong.

I don't under stand the reason for water injected exhaust either, aside from the crome. It seems to be a downfall for most beginner jet boaters. The first day I brought home my jet boat with a 460 in it I ran it in the driveway and completly filled the motor up with water because of the well known falty T valve. So I yanked both the ford and the T valve and they hit the trash can never to be used again. Also water injected headers rob horsepower because it restricts the flow. Ive heard up to a 10 hp loss. Another thing is why would it be against the law to run without? Think about it. the exhaust water mixing with fuel sometimes raw fuel and carbon dioxide then dumped back into the water. I couldn't think of a faster way to pollute a lake. Ive been to lake silver wood and elsinore with out any issues with my dry exhaust. The river, that's a joke. I know guys that live out there and run zoomies all day long with out any inforcment or warning and ticket. It seems to be more of a style and tradition than anything. For the price and time of all that plumbing and head ache spend 200 and just get ceramic coating. Just my .02

I can get them done all day long for $250

Rewarder, Embee, Jet Hot to name a few

Have a quote from jet hot, cheapest one I have for 375....

I'll give Gibson a call