SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: speedymopars on May 27, 2008, 08:28:34 AM
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Havi has been great, esp copper canyon Sunday....
One issue, my hyd place divertor is not working! Leaving CC, the divertor stuck up! hard to drive with it up, and it finally went down; now it is stuck down. There is fluid in there, I don't see any leaks. So, is there a common place the pumps die / stop working so I can look there first? I am thinking it may be electrical, I checked the fuses under the dash, they were good (but I don't know if there is another fuse that controls it). I don't think it is a fuse though, otherwise the divertor wouldn't have gone down. Flakey ground perhaps...it worked flawlessly on the trailer and the short runs I did at elsinore.
I re did the fuel system yesterday, I am (still) having an issue not getting enough fuel to the engine. My pressure on Sunday dropped to 0 around 4K, which is better than the 3K it was before, but still not good enough. I redid how the inlets to the pump worked, took out some suction line hose (shortened it up by quite a bit, and made it all downhill to the pump to not trap air). I get to try it out today and see if that fixed it.
My carbs are lean too, keeping it running cold is a bitch. Gonna jet it up and play with the squirters. I also need to tweek the secondary idles...
Overall running good in the lower rpms, pretty good throttle response. The mufflers work really well, I may pull them out to see how loud it gets. The cam and exhause size says it should be WAYYY louder than it is...
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Havi has been great, esp copper canyon Sunday....
One issue, my hyd place divertor is not working! Leaving CC, the divertor stuck up! hard to drive with it up, and it finally went down; now it is stuck down. There is fluid in there, I don't see any leaks. So, is there a common place the pumps die / stop working so I can look there first? I am thinking it may be electrical, I checked the fuses under the dash, they were good (but I don't know if there is another fuse that controls it). I don't think it is a fuse though, otherwise the divertor wouldn't have gone down. Flakey ground perhaps...it worked flawlessly on the trailer and the short runs I did at elsinore.
I re did the fuel system yesterday, I am (still) having an issue not getting enough fuel to the engine. My pressure on Sunday dropped to 0 around 4K, which is better than the 3K it was before, but still not good enough. I redid how the inlets to the pump worked, took out some suction line hose (shortened it up by quite a bit, and made it all downhill to the pump to not trap air). I get to try it out today and see if that fixed it.
My carbs are lean too, keeping it running cold is a bitch. Gonna jet it up and play with the squirters. I also need to tweek the secondary idles...
Overall running good in the lower rpms, pretty good throttle response. The mufflers work really well, I may pull them out to see how loud it gets. The cam and exhause size says it should be WAYYY louder than it is...
Check the factory wiring on the PD pump. Mine went crazy too and would go one way but not the other. I beat my head against the wall and even called Tim Place. He was ready to cross ship a new pump to me and then I went out and messed with the factory wiring and found that their connections were bad. I re-did their wiring with new butt connectors and liquid tape and everything came back to life.
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My momentary switch went bad. Take a 12volt light tester and check all the connections at the switch, then work your way back to the pump.
Mine would work, then get stuck at top. then it would go down, then get stuck at the bottom. I used the light tester to make sure the contacts were doing what they should, and they werent.
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Speedy,
What do you have for a fuel system. Elect or mech pump. What size lines etc. Also the vents on these boats with the flip up "vented" caps are not that good of a venting system. I checked my caps when I had them off for polishing. To me the do not allow enough air into the tank. Maybe for a stock engine what they were designed for but for higher HP applications IMO they are poor.
If you suck on a sping water bottle it will collapse, that is what the tanks are trying to do in a lesser sense and this will prevent fuel from flowing as well.
When you state the carbs are lean keeping it running cold ??? What does that mean. Usually running lean means higher combustion temps.
T.J.
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I think he is having a hard time keeping it running when cold due to carb problems.
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My momentary switch went bad. Take a 12volt light tester and check all the connections at the switch, then work your way back to the pump.
Mine would work, then get stuck at top. then it would go down, then get stuck at the bottom. I used the light tester to make sure the contacts were doing what they should, and they werent.
X2 Mine went bad too. Here's the new one.
[attachimg=#]
It's God awfull fugly but it was cheap and works well. Radio Shack.
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Speedy,
What do you have for a fuel system. Elect or mech pump. What size lines etc. Also the vents on these boats with the flip up "vented" caps are not that good of a venting system. I checked my caps when I had them off for polishing. To me the do not allow enough air into the tank. Maybe for a stock engine what they were designed for but for higher HP applications IMO they are poor.
If you suck on a sping water bottle it will collapse, that is what the tanks are trying to do in a lesser sense and this will prevent fuel from flowing as well.
When you state the carbs are lean keeping it running cold ??? What does that mean. Usually running lean means higher combustion temps.
T.J.
Wrong pump...he's referring to the pump on his hydraulic diverter.
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Thanks everyone - The switch was bad - Tim at place is shipping me one to my vacation location! - Awesome Customer service - I will always buy place!
Yes, I'm refering to the fact that the carbs are lean when it is warm - and they don't have any choke - so the are REALLY lean when cold which makes for a difficult warm up period.
I run out of fuel when i'm ON IT - so I re did the line so it pulled off of both tanks, unfortunatly it only mostly pulled of the right one for some reason, but had full pressure at 4K. So I re did it again with new filters, shorter lines, tank selenoid in place, and attention to detail. I get to see if it works in a few hours....Wish me luck..
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I run out of fuel when i'm ON IT - so I re did the line so it pulled off of both tanks, unfortunatly it only mostly pulled of the right one for some reason.
Is your fuel line shorter thats coming out of the right tank? If you have a shorter fuel line on one tank it will suck more.
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The right tank had a straight shot, while the left was T'ed in. I knew it probably would do that, but I needed to see. So now I have it through the tank switch and it is working great. I made sure I didn't have anywhere for air to get trapped, IE, the lines all go down now rather than up and down like they were, added 3 new filters (each tank inlet to the selinoid, and 1 out of the electric fuel pump), and that seems to have cured the issue.
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The right tank had a straight shot, while the left was T'ed in. I knew it probably would do that, but I needed to see. So now I have it through the tank switch and it is working great. I made sure I didn't have anywhere for air to get trapped, IE, the lines all go down now rather than up and down like they were, added 3 new filters (each tank inlet to the selinoid, and 1 out of the electric fuel pump), and that seems to have cured the issue.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks it better to over filter the fuel than under filter it. I've got one form each fuel tank and then one at the carb.
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IMO Don't use filters with glass. IMO
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IMO Don't use filters with glass. IMO
For the time being, I am. Since everything else that's been wrong with this boat has had to be fixed or replaced, I want to monitor a couple of tanks of fuel through the motor. Oh, and the glass, has been replaced with clear Lexan tubing.
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... Oh, and the glass, has been replaced with clear Lexan tubing.
Great idea! I've always used the glass versions also, never had a problem, but if I ever do have a problem with them it would probably be that boat's LAST problem. ;)
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Speedy for what its worth one of the most comon PD hyd unit fixes is to simply twist with thumb and forefinger ,each soleniod to a very lite seat for some reason this often gets them working again never overtighten !
RE filter not a fan of anything glass in my boat but an occasional long neck ;)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi147.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr319%2Fjetboatperformance%2FEliminator%2520V-drive%2FDSC00080.jpg&hash=5c3ff068eef4be737166a6e3f98c39898f4cb3c1)
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I am running the Fram G12's, metal with 3/8th port size. I added a fuel pressure gauge too, so now it is sitting at 6-7 PSI no matter what I do. I did have a glass filter on it when I bought it, I'm not convinced those things flow enough.
PD's working great now.
The only other issue I had on the trip was the left side of the engine was overheating. I redid the plumbing on that side (slight kink in one of the hoses, doubt that was the issue, but you never know), and took out my pressure regulator. Once I did that, all of the problems went away. I am seeing 18PSI at the block inlet at 4100 RPM (my self imposed limit for this trip), so it looks like the regulator goes back to doing duty on my RV.
My manifolds were warm (but not hot, I could leave my hand on it for a minute) after a about an hour of running at 4100. Once I fixed the cooling issue, my oil stayed at 180-200deg. When it was getting hot, the oil jumped to 220.