Brad

I would try an inducer, definately a stuffer, Stainless impeller ( you said cost unlimited) and I'd go 5 degree (you can always backcut the shoe and wedge the nozzel) Have a pump box the size of a pickup bed with assorted loaders, nozzel shims, wedges ( two 6 degree drilled for an R pump can be rotated arround to almost any angle between 12 up or 12 down) and plenty of nozzel studs of vaying lengths. and always look for places where cavitation can start and fill it or blend in the casting to eliminate it.  We used epoxy puddy to fill in the cleanout plug and fare in the tail cone screw. we also filled in the space  behind the impeller to the suction piece once but it broke loose and almost locked up the motor (don't do that one).  Prep the impellor so it's easy to pull and spray it with Dycum before each run to see where it's cavitating. Then massage the impeller until the Dycum stays put.  McClure can tell you how to best remove material without screwing up the pump.  You can also have the pump spin ballanced once you have everything else done.  We also profiled the straightening vains in the bowl and tested to see if any of the water comming out of the pump fell off to one side (water spinning out of the pump) it would tell you which side of the vains needed more work.  Jack can also set you up with a new low profile intake but as I remember it takes a while to match it to the suction piece.