SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: JBASHAM on April 19, 2014, 09:12:28 PM
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Looking for advice on this.
The epoxy around my intake is cracking, and figured since I already have the pump torn down I might as well reseal the intake too.
I searched for other threads but couldn't really find any.
I know the basics, just looking for some tips and or tricks, maybe pictures.
Thanks Jake
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Is your intake already machined for a shoe and ride plate?
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Looking for advice on this.
The epoxy around my intake is cracking, and figured since I already have the pump torn down I might as well reseal the intake too.
I searched for other threads but couldn't really find any.
I know the basics, just looking for some tips and or tricks, maybe pictures.
Thanks Jake
.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats
Is your intake already machined for a shoe and ride plate?
Now would be the time to do it if you ever plan on it.
-beerjet-
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No it's not setup for a shoe or ride plate yet, but I agree nows the time to do it.
Any info on doing this myself?
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No it's not setup for a shoe or ride plate yet, but I agree nows the time to do it.
Any info on doing this myself?
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Setting the intake you can do.
Milling for a shoe and ride plate, I'd recommend a professional.
-beerjet-
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Measure, measure and measure some more.
There are threaded holes in the intake that are used for holding the intake to the proper height.
Masking tape is your friend. Nothing worse than a sloppy epoxy job, nice straight lines and keep a rag handy with some MEK available to clean it up before it cures.
The biggest mistake made is poor preparation, rough the surface up with some 36 grit sandpaper and clean it really well with acetone or MEK, wear chemical resistant gloves.
As far as milling for a shoe, this should really be done by a machine shop, but in all honesty, I have done them with a router and an electronic speed controller and have had them come out just a nice (did it without removing the intake)... I know, I know, redneck... :-\
Do you have a round or flat keeled intake?
GT
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Thanks for the tips GT.
Is there a template I can give the machine shop? Because I don't plan on getting the shoe yet, I just want to have it ready for a later date.
As far as keel shape, I don't know maybe you can tell me.
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Looks like a flat to me, you have what I would call a delta bottom boat.
These are IMHO the easiest to redo.
Have you figured out how to remove it yet?
GT
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Looks like a flat to me, you have what I would call a delta bottom boat.
These are IMHO the easiest to redo.
Have you figured out how to remove it yet?
GT
Cool thanks for the clarification.
As far as removing it, I hadn't really thought about it. Anything I should know??
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Cool thanks for the clarification.
As far as removing it, I hadn't really thought about it. Anything I should know??
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Probably about thirty or forty swear words. :sly:
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Lately, I feel that I have been giving recommendations based on how I would do things and not taking into account what the actual end user wants or needs. So before I make any recommendations, I will ask a few more questions.
1. What type of motor mounting will you be using? That will heavily influence your freedom to locate the intake i.e. setback. If you are using a 3-point mount system, you will need to change to a 4-point or rail system.
2. Are you opposed to buying a longer driveline? A setback pump will require a longer driveline.
3. Do you want to try to reuse your transom plate or do you want to try to make your own transom plates for use with a setback pump? If you are up to the challenge of making your own transom plates, do you want to try to get the hand hole cover totally outside of the transom?
Anything that you do beyond putting the intake back in the original location will cost a lot more, take a lot longer, and require a lot more skill.
One thing that worked really well for me was positioning my pump so that the suction flange where the bowl bolts on was just inside the opening of my box transom plate. I sealed just this suction housing flange to the transom plate so that I was still able to remove the bowl without removal of the transom plate.
Good luck,
Joe
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Probably about thirty or forty swear words. :sly:
Oh... Gotcha. I know all those! Lol. Pretty much a bitch huh!?
Thanks for the warning.
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Lately, I feel that I have been giving recommendations based on how I would do things and not taking into account what the actual end user wants or needs. So before I make any recommendations, I will ask a few more questions.
1. What type of motor mounting will you be using? That will heavily influence your freedom to locate the intake i.e. setback. If you are using a 3-point mount system, you will need to change to a 4-point or rail system.
2. Are you opposed to buying a longer driveline? A setback pump will require a longer driveline.
3. Do you want to try to reuse your transom plate or do you want to try to make your own transom plates for use with a setback pump? If you are up to the challenge of making your own transom plates, do you want to try to get the hand hole cover totally outside of the transom?
Anything that you do beyond putting the intake back in the original location will cost a lot more, take a lot longer, and require a lot more skill.
One thing that worked really well for me was positioning my pump so that the suction flange where the bowl bolts on was just inside the opening of my box transom plate. I sealed just this suction housing flange to the transom plate so that I was still able to remove the bowl without removal of the transom plate.
Good luck,
Joe
Joe thanks for the response.
It had 4 point setup, but I'm in the middle of building a rail kit.
As far as setting the pump back goes, I'd love to but time and funds just don't make it feasible right now.
I'm rebuilding the pump, motor, mounts, bulkhead, floors, rerigging everything and so on...
So this go around I just want to pull the intake and reseal it, hopefully machine it for later shoe/ride plate.
Ill be posting the progress in my project thread.
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I feel you on the budget thing, doing a setback can cause your cost to go way up.
If you have your intake machined for a shoe / ride plate, I don’t think that you will be able to run it without a shoe.
When you sand the epoxy off of the fiberglass in preparation for your fresh intake install, don’t grind off any glass around the edge, opening up the opening in the hull. Center the intake between the strakes and ensure that they are parallel.
[attach=1]
Level the intake side to side relative to the strakes.
[attach=2]
Blending the inlet of the intake into the hull makes a big difference as to how the pump loads. Try to blend a smooth transition from the glass into the aluminum of the intake with epoxy. Try to blend this transition as far forward as 9-inches from the front of the loader pad. Be careful here as blending in the entry can excessively thin the glass, and no good could result from that. Same thing in the rear of the intake, typically you will need to clearance the bottom of the hull for the ride plate. Build these areas up with fiberglass, no wider than the opening cut into the hull. This will also help to prevent excessive cross-sectional thickness of the epoxy holding the intake.
Set the intake suction surface at 4-degrees relative to the hull next to the intake opening. This drawing illustrates a back cut shoe. Set your shoe depth (with no shims), at the end of the back cut, to be even with a straight edge across the keel. This will be a safe starting point. If you set your intake at an angle other than 4-degrees or the machined surface for the shoe is cut into the intake at an angle other than 4-degrees to the suction surface, note that as it will influence the back cut angle cut into your shoe so that your installed back cut angle is correct to the hull.
[attach=3]
Good luck,
Joe
NOTE: Revised drawing for clarity.
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Good stuff! Thanks GT & Joe.
Sounds like I'm just gonna pull and reseal then.
One more question.. When measuring the 4* I take the measurement on the flat of the intake where the suction bolts to right? And compare it to 0* from the stringers or the floor?
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One more question.. When measuring the 4* I take the measurement on the flat of the intake where the suction bolts to right? And compare it to 0* from the stringers or the floor?
You want to measure on the water side of the hull, right next to the intake opening. You only care what the water sees, not the floor, stringers, deck, etc. The water never interacts with the stringers or the floor.
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Probably about thirty or forty swear words. :sly:
Well GT I got it out and it was way more than 40!! Lol
The top layer of mat came up in a couple spots...
Can I just grind the loose stuff off and lay down the epoxy for the intake? Or do I need to lay down more mat and resin or use some kitty hair or??
I'm new to fiberglass repair so please take it easy on me.
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"Hello, hello, hello, is there anybody out there?"
Guys I need some advice on this. Trying to get get this thing back together soon.
Thanks Jake
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I would grind it down to clean the area. Then use duraglas to 're do the areas that are low. Make sure that you set the intake in and out a few times to get the depth right. Then once you have the depth right, set the angle and use sea goin epoxy to set the intake. Use the fromt holes to set angle. Once the angle is set use some weights to make sure the intake is down. Thats what im going to do at least
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Thanks Beav.
Yea I already have the sea goin epoxy. Just wasn't sure about the glass repair.
What's duraglass and where can I get it??
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Duraglas is like fiberglass Bondo. It is a resin with fiberglass shavings. You can get it online for sure. Im not sure where to pick it up from a store
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I've seen it at home depo
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