SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: GottaJet on August 12, 2014, 08:20:34 PM
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Hey Guys,
Has anyone come up with any tricks or tools to remove old silicone from your hull and around the pump. Getting ready to remove transom adapter and pump and any info provided would be great.
Thanks
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ive used a razor on a scraper tool, an attachment on die grinder that looked like a cupped wire wheel only it had softer, non metallic..."bristles"....ive even used a sharp chisel. careful with chisel....wont take much to dig into gel. all of this was on regular silicone. i havent had to remove 5200 yet. this stuff could could have a stronger adhesion to boat.
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Gas and a razor blade by hand (soft hand) and use plastic wedges not a screwdriver to pry the transom cover . Good luck !
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Thanks Guys
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true, gasoline will attack silicone....just wasnt sure how well the gel would hold up to the gas AND razor.
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Just apply with a rag and be soft with the razor . Learned that trick from a good paint/ fiberglass guy
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Piano wire... Feed it through and work it all the way around.
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Any preferences on a specific brand or type of silicone to use when putting things back together?
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I've found WD-40 and a razor blade works great
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from what ive gathered here....most prefer 3m 5200 adhesive. its a bit tougher than silicone, made for marine use. also, ive learned here, that one should not need silicone of any kind to reassemble transom adapter to hull as well as on to bowl. white lithium grease seems to be recommended-its waterproof-....and it will be easier to remove....if you need to take it apart again. 5200 cost quite a bit more than silicone. i have found it at home depot....for nearly half the price of west marine!! :sly: HD had both slow and fast cure 5200...even had it in the tube like for a caulk gun. 100% silicone will work. could even last as long as 5200. clear stuff....doesnt really stay clear....will kinda look dirty with age. fyi.
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5200 is harder to remove.
I've had good luck with Boatlife silicone, you can get it at most boat shops if there's any around anymore !
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Why so much silicone to begin with?
Gasoline and carb spray (on a rag of course) have always worked for me.
-beerjet-
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5200 is harder to remove.
I've had good luck with Boatlife silicone, you can get it at most boat shops if there's any around anymore !
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i searched for this product....$45 for about 3oz. this sound right?
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Regular GE 2 from Home D works well and long and its 6-7 bucks a tube. Put a tad on all bolts and hardware on reassembly. A light thin coat works well and makes tear down later on easy. Its just freshwater jet stuff an no need for some expensive permanent marine crap....
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No, it's about $20.00 a tube . Same
as most silicone. I have heard horror stories about 5200 from those that have used it and later regretted it.
Just passing on some info I have heard about.
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Some great information here :thumbup: Thanks everyone
I pulled the transom adapter and I'm not sure what was used but they used a lot of it and it took forever to get it off :mad:
There is a gasket for the transom adapter and it looks like just silicone was used between the bowl and adapter. Is this correct or should I have had a gasket?
Also when pulling the pump off of the intake does it come off all in one piece(Berk JC) uncoupling at the u joint? The whole reason for pulling the pump is that I blew the suction housing gasket out on my last Parker trip and almost sunk the boat :-[ so I need to slip a new one in.
I really appreciate all the help as I have another Parker trip coming in October :beer: :beer:
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Regular GE 2 from Home D works well and long and its 6-7 bucks a tube. Put a tad on all bolts and hardware on reassembly. A light thin coat works well and makes tear down later on easy. Its just freshwater jet stuff an no need for some expensive permanent marine crap....
EXACTLY!
I don't use hardly any and I have no leaks.
The brand doesn't really matter so long as it's pure 100% silicone.
-beerjet-
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No need for a gasket on trans cover or bowl just a light smear of silicone on it and hardware. Do the bowl once its all installed and run a nice 1/4" bead into the gap(bowl/trans cover) running your finger over it after to get a solid clean finish. I would put a gasket on the pump to intake though. I also put a small amount of black rtv around the inner part of intake/gasket to ensure a good firm seal on that inside area.
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Also when pulling the pump off of the intake does it come off all in one piece(Berk JC) uncoupling at the u joint? The whole reason for pulling the pump is that I blew the suction housing gasket out on my last Parker trip and almost sunk the boat :-[ so I need to slip a new one in.
I really appreciate all the help as I have another Parker trip coming in October :beer: :beer:
pump does come off as one complete unit, you can even leave the trans adapter on,after separating it from hull and breaking sealant on bowl. may, or not, need to pull cables off so you can get to the mating surface of suction housing. u joint will stay with motor. coupling will slide off of pump splines.
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You guys are awesome!! :D I wish the guy who installed this thing previously would have received some of this knowledge it would have saved me an hour or two of hassle and clean up :thumbup: :banghead:
Thanks
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What do guys think about some blue Loc-Tite on the intake to suction housing bolts, and someone mentioned some RTV on the inside edge of the gasket for suction housing to intake some have told me just some petroleum jelly. Thanks