SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Jet Pumps => Topic started by: speedymopars on March 28, 2008, 02:04:45 PM
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I have a Berk 12JC that is completely dissasembled with a new place diverter. It occured to me that I wil need to have the bowl and transom adapter powder coated white, cause everything else is brand new looking and these look like shit.
With my diverter, I bought the underslung reverser style, so I need to drill holes in my transom adapter to move the cable from right to left.
1) Is there a different transom adapter I can use that I wouldn't have to modify , IE 12jE or something (unsure of the number)? I am thinking maybe just buy a new transom adapter that is in great shape already ready to go to save time and money.
2) My bowl is, well, challenged. Inside and out. It's obvious that many rocks have gone through there and the vanes are pounded. Do I need to worry about my bowl or should I just have it powder coated. Are all the bowls the same? Is there a better bowl to buy for the JC? I just got a rebuilt impellor and shaft, a tiny bit more clearance than I would have liked, but still acceptible, so I won't be swapping that out.
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I looked into having my pump powder coated and they really didn't want to coat it because it is aluminum and aluminum out gases under heat, but maybe they don't know what the hell they are doing.
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To PC aluminum you do have to know what you are doing and the first thing they have to do is prep everything for powder coating. Then they put the part in the oven and heat it up to about half the powder cure temp and leave it there for about 20 minutes. Then you powder coat while hot and the finish baking it off at the 450* temp for about 15 to 20 minutes. They don't want to do it because it requires more time and electricity to accomplish the job. Maybe they don't know what they are doing. :sly:
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To PC aluminum you do have to know what you are doing and the first thing they have to do is prep everything for powder coating. Then they put the part in the oven and heat it up to about half the powder cure temp and leave it there for about 20 minutes. Then you powder coat while hot and the finish baking it off at the 450* temp for about 15 to 20 minutes. They don't want to do it because it requires more time and electricity to accomplish the job. Maybe they don't know what they are doing. :sly:
My powder coat guy said something to the affect of having to reverse the process first so the finish product doesnt not have any fish eyes when its done .
-beerjet-
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With my diverter, I bought the underslung reverser style, so I need to drill holes in my transom adapter to move the cable from right to left.
1) Is there a different transom adapter I can use that I wouldn't have to modify , IE 12jE or something (unsure of the number)? I am thinking maybe just buy a new transom adapter that is in great shape already ready to go to save time and money.
So you got the low profile style diverter, correct? If so there aren't any Berkeley transom adapters with the cable exit on the left (that I know of), but there are some that don't have a hole or a boss for the cable ( some of the original A and B pumps were that way).
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi147.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr319%2Fjetboatperformance%2FDSCF03160.jpg&hash=aa7df3484817dadf5b327eb816f7684e4661b6d3) (https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi147.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr319%2Fjetboatperformance%2FDSCF03170.jpg&hash=a6670cd1baffbbe2e6ce91e836f42e3bae9961dd)
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My powder coat guy said something to the affect of having to reverse the process first so the finish product doesnt not have any fish eyes when its done .
-beerjet-
The fish eye effect is caused by hot gassing and that's because they don't want to preheat the part. You have to preheat to get the gases out. IF you glass bead the part, there is a chance that the glass beads will break and embed small particles in the aluminum and when you bake for the finish coat they will pop and cause a defect in the finish. You have to prebake or preheat, then coat then finish bake the part after it's coated.
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The fish eye effect is caused by hot gassing and that's because they don't want to preheat the part. You have to preheat to get the gases out. IF you glass bead the part, there is a chance that the glass beads will break and embed small particles in the aluminum and when you bake for the finish coat they will pop and cause a defect in the finish. You have to prebake or preheat, then coat then finish bake the part after it's coated.
Sounds about right . The guy knew what he was doin and the product came out perfect .
-beerjet-
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Not sure if your still struggling with this, but here it goes.
Can we get some pictures of what you've got going on because my reverse comes out on the right side and the steering comes out on the left side. Like this. (I am not running that old PD setup anymore, that is seen in the pictures so please ignore that)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi248.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg178%2Fpatrickv8193%2FDSC01133.jpg&hash=6da298861c19e70e9123334c10dffe372eeb7fca)
And I too have a JC style bowl. If you want to run a better bowl, I would recommend finding a JG split bowl that is in good shape. This allows you to bolt all kinds of stuff up to it, like wedges and droop snoots, and stuff like that. The only reason that I am running a JC bowl is because mine was freshly reworked when I bought the boat. It also came with a JG bowl, but that thing was a basket case and needed lots of work, and I didn't feel like doing it, so I sold that bowl on eBay. My fins in my JC bowl look basically perfect, here's a pic. And I shouldn't have to worry about them for some time now.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi248.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg178%2Fpatrickv8193%2FJet%2520Pump%2FDSC00896.jpg&hash=e19959703b66de8a00e2441a30fe8eacc4f5c0e5)
As far as making them look good, I just stripped the PC off, down to the green primer, and painted them with some white automotive paint (in a spray can), that I got at the parts store. It is very hard and looks good against the new pieces. The good thing about paint is that if you get a chip in it, you can just spray it again. You can't do that with PC. And if you do a good amount of prep work, the paint should last awhile on there. I also used an acid etching primer before painting. And sanded the aluminum smooth before priming, and wet sanded with fine sandpaper between all coats, and it turned out very smooth and hard.
Hope this helps.
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Another late post, anyway, I have friends that do a lot of powdercoating on marine aluminum parts, what I was told is the aluminum parts actually get coated twice, once to seal/marinize the part (a lot like the old Zinc Chromate paint) then it is allowed to cool, then coated again with the final finish.
I have seen their work and it is truly awsome, I will be over there tomorrow and will ask him exactly what he uses.
Some of the stuff he has done is three of four seasons old and still looks fresh.
As far as the bowl/stator damage, if money is an object (when is it not) spend some quality time with a die grinder and go pick up a cylinder head porting kit (several stones/wheels) and just detail it out, making sure the ends a fairly uniform.
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Just spoke with my powder coater, he uses what he says almost all powdercoaters use, which is a Zinc-phosphate based pretreat, he also uses a metal based filler for imperfections, called Bellzona(sp), super hard very expensive filler that can be milled, drilled and threaded and has a really high threshhold for pressure and temperature.
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Spelled "Belzona" here's the link...This stuff is the shizzle when it comes to fixing broken junk (Trash ;D)
http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx (http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx)
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Spelled "Belzona" here's the link...This stuff is the shizzle when it comes to fixing broken junk (Trash ;D)
http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx (http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx)
So which one does your buddy recommend? :)
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Only ever seen them use the #1211, but there are a couple others that look similar.