I?m not sure why it broke, I assume I sucked up a rock or stick. There was no vibration and was running fine. I only took it apart to replace the wear ring (my rpm was rising). It?s only on that 1 vein and the crescent shape crack goes all the way threw on 1 side and is slightly bent. But with a brass hammer it won?t pop back into its original position.
As far as adding a sleeve to the aluminum impeller I think it would be fairly easy to do and I imagine stainless on stainless would wear down much slower with the small sand particles? Does a stainless impeller last longer then an aluminum one all things bring equal?
I never thought about the road grime and will definitely start doing that. But I do all the other tips
The RPM wouldn't increase with wear ring clearance. There was a thread, a few years back, where someone purchased a boat that had a top speed of 35 MPH. Turns out, the pump was assembled without a wear ring. The hit and top speed would suffer, but it wouldn't just start riding the rev limiter if you let it go unchecked.
That damage to the trailing edges will cause RPM to increase. Also damage to the leading edges. How do the leading edges look by the way? Any signs of cavitation?
Yes, a stainless impeller, combined with a stainless wear ring is the most wear resistant. The softer the material, the faster it will wear.
One thing I have thought about was spray welding hard facing material and OD grinding the impeller. I don't know if there is a similar process for aluminum, because most customers, with an aluminum impeller, get pretty long life. You might have access to and/or be familiar to just such a process.
P.S. I'm sure you are aware that welding will kill the heat treating in that area, which is highly stressed.
P.P.S. Front and rear axial clearance is slightly more important (within reason) than radial clearance.