That 600.00 boat, the Glencoe is more along the lines of what Im looking for. Thanks for the tip!

I'm looking for a fiberglass jet boat project for use as a lake/river fishing boat. I missed buying a "Las Vegas" hull a few years ago that was your typical deep sided Vee hull with windshield, kind of like your typical family I/O lake cruiser. I'm not familiar with the various makes/models of these older glass hulls. Anyone have some makes/models that I can start searching for?

I'd take 250.00 plus shipping from Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. One side I did have a welding shop do a repair on.

Kodiak Marine 460, stock forged flat tops with 9:1 compression, Cobra Jet cam/intake, heads are off and I was going to hone the block and put in new bearings but lost interest in the project. Has the Kodiak center riser alum ex manifolds. I'm looking for a V drive box, BBC Gen 4 V drive oil pan, oval port BBC manifold, shaft log. In Chico, 100 miles north of Sacto, Trades welcome! 530-864-4846

Paul Kane/LakesOnly/High Flow Dynamics has this to say about the engine:

Your Kodiak 460 should be one of the more desirable Marine 460 offered. If that's the case, then your engine should have come from the factory with forged flat-top pistons, fully-grooved main bearings, "special" marine valve springs/cups/retainers, a D0OE-6425-C Super Cobra Jet intake manifold, an SCJ 216*/220* duration camshaft, and a few other goodies. Without disassembling the engine, you should be able to confirm the SCJ intake by locating the number atop the manifold just behind the carburetor mounting pad. This engine should also have D6VE-AA truck rods (a la CJ rods).

If you have the factory forged flat-top pistons (made by TRW) then hopefully you will be able to get away with a light cylinder hone and rings because those pistons have not been made for about 20 years. But if they are in good shape there is no reason not to use them. They are a very rugged piston for your application. Factory compression ratio is a real-world 9:1 with the OEM heads that are D3VEs or E6TEs (<----essentially D3VEs with hard seats).

Even though you intend to keep rpm around 3000 rpm, I recommend against the standard 1/2-groove main bearings usually found in the passenger car engines and you stick with the fully-grooved main bearings. They will provide your rod bearings with continuous oil feed to the rods in your marine application (3/4-groove bearigs at least).

Your best bet would be a ring & bearing job, deck the cylinder block to 10.300", bowl blend the intake and exhaust bowls, radius the short turn on
the exhaust port floor-to-bowl, new stainless intake and exhaust valves and a nice valve job. (no need to go further on the port work in your application.) and make sure the hydraulic lifters are returned to their EXACT same lifter bores. Or install new ones and break in he cam all over again.

Kodiak Marine 460. True 9:1 compression with forged flat top pistons. Unknown running condition but I bought it with the assurance that it was a runner. Has alum Kodiak marine center riser manifolds with lots of welding on them! $400.00/offer

Two pair of stock iron center riser manifolds for SBC. One pair of stock risers. $200.00 pair

Berkeley 12JG stock nozzle, $50.00

BBF to Berk/Borg Warner 3 pt mount $50.00

Two Berk transom rings, $25.00  each

PTO $25.00

All items in Chico, 100 miles north of Sacto. Will consider non insulting offers on above items.

I need a 12v pump like you'd see used with some Bennett trim tabs. I suppose something from a Place diverter type of unit would work also. Let me know what you've got!

Lance

I have some that I can post this evening. I also have two transom rings, a stock berk 12JG nozzle/bucket, Ford two piece 3 pt rear mount, driveline and H bar.

I have a Kodiak 460 project engine. I bought it on a pallet as a runner supposedly. I pulled the heads to check things out and planned on completely pulling the engine apart to do some simple mods such as the oil pump etc. Lost interest in the project. Needs heads bolted back on. Complete less carb. This engine has the forged flat top pistons, longer cylinder wall length, cast iron CJ intake, front motor mounts, alum front water pump cover plate, Kodiak alum center riser manifolds both of which have been welded on. Heads are E6TE-DA and block D9TE-AB. $700.00/offer

I also have a brand new SDR (split duct reverse) bucket assembly for AT or Berkeley jets. Just paid 900.00 for it, I'll take $750.00.

2 pair cast iron SBC center riser manifolds, K &N marine air cleaner, $15.00

Both items in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. Call Lance at 530-864-4846

That's true but its easier to tighten up a new nut then break free an old one. On mine, they were both buggered up, matter of fact one had been welded on so I assume someone had tried something extreme to either get it off or tighten it up.  The rebuild kits come with new impeller nuts so no real loss.

About 20yrs ago I rebuilt 2 Berks in my garage with no prior experience working on them and without purchasing expensive tooling. I now see where there are "how to" rebuild videos on Youtube and at least one of the online aftermarket jet boat parts store has some rebuild videos. I'd try it first before I'd pay to have it done! Good luck!