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If they are flange type logs good luck. If your have thru bolt any regular gasket will work well on the ports. If you dont have thru bolt... get a pair. I think Jim Brock on this site has a set.i have thru bolt logs
just run auto gaskets or just put a good size bead of high temp silicon. Make sure both flange surfaces are clean, smooth and flat as possible. Put about a 1/4" diameter bead on the center of the flange, lay it down flat some with a wet finger so the silicone does'nt stick to your finger to much, let it sit for about 20min. +/- so it it just skins over a little and slightly stiffens so when you install the manifold it does'nt ooze out excessivley. Carefully place/install the manifold and draw it down evenly but not all the way down, just so the silicone is clearly making contact all the way around the perimeter of the flange area, you will see it start to push outward as you draw the nuts down. Let it sit like this in the sun (heat) to cure the silicon more quickly. Let sit for a couple hours. Then snug them down untill they seat firmly againt the head but no need to over tighten. Over tightening can draw the flanges down at the nuts and warp them some making sealing more troublesome. Then complete the connection of the exhaust hose and water lines. Manifolds should not be moving during exh. hose install. You should be able to fire the motor for a minute at this point and put some heat into the exhaust flange area but not to much and just idle the motor. Exhaust gas pressure increases with motor rpm. You should be able to head to the water at this point. Keep a wrench handy (9/16"?) for the nuts and check for snugness just before launching. Maybe check again later in the day after running for a while to insure they don't loosen some from expansion/contraction from heat cycles. If done correctly it should last you untill the next time you have to remove them for some reason. Having a tube of silicone (std. and hi temp.) handy is always a good idea with a boat. Goos luck, hope this helps.bitchin! thanks man that helped a lot
I would re-seal the intake and let her buck, see what happens. If there's water getting into the intake wouldn't that cause a vacuum leak and cause the boat to run like junk
Use some Permatex number 2 around the water ports.
Might just be me though..
Good luck.
GT
Let's start again...
beerjet was trying to spur you for more information..
There are a few different causes for the banana milkshake.
First, how much water are we talking? Is the oil just a little milky, or did it actually raise the level?
Where was your water temperature running?
Has it done this before?
What motor? Seems irrelevant, but the Ford 460 and the Olds 455 both have substandard intake manifold designs around the water ports.
Basic causes...
Intake gasket leaks, this puts water right down the lifter valley, could be related to pressure, but doubt that on logs.
Cracked block, this could have numerous causes and can break in a whole bunch of different areas, normally due to freezing.
Cracked head or pulled valve seat.
Cracked exhaust log, easy to verify if a two hose manifold, simply block off one hose and pressurize the other... Should hold 20 PSI of air without issue.
Cracked riser, more difficult to diagnose.
Cam duration and lobe centers, if you have a lumpy cam, it could be reversion, this is especially true on a log deal.
Water left in the bilge while in storage, if the water level is deep enough in the hull to go above the front or rear main seals, she take take water in without you being the wiser.
Head gaskets, probably last on my list unless the heads were torqued improperly or it severely overheated.
Over pressurization, difficult to do with logs, yet not at all impossible...
Hope this helps and hope something sticks out...
GT
[/quote
The oil only seems a little bit milky it doesn't seem like a lot of water in there and the motor is a pretty much a stock 460. And as far as water temp goes it never went above one 160.
Thanks GT
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Hey all just joined the site & want to share pix of my jet boat. I moved to Bullhead city AZ 3 years ago from San diego & before i left i traded a car for a 74 Conqueror marine sundance 16 jet boat. Its powered by a Datsun L 20 motor [ 2.0 110 HP] & the jet is made by Castoldi out of Italy. It ran ok when i got it & the paint / gelcoat was in so-so shape. Ive done alot to it in the 3 years ive had it..some of it cosmetic & the rest maintenance / replacing parts but luckily im a Datsun freak so keeping it running & tuned is easy.holy crap my parents have the same float but there's had a 2.9 Chevy 4 cylinder and a Hamilton jet. I have honestly never seen another one of these boats. 👍
Could be the distributor is rusted on the inside and stuck in the advanced position!my dad popped the top off of it when he was helping me and said it was all clean
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I had a similar issue on a 460. Would try to fire, but kept backfiring thru the carb. The roll pin on the distributor drive gear was half sheared off.ill have to look into that too I'm trying to find every possible thing but I have never messed with the distributor
Gt just said what I said last my bad...I love to tinker and I want to learn. And it's sat from October until a few weeks ago and the fuel that say I'm it was really bad when I flushed it
Ur needle stops the fuel from entering ur bowl. But if u dont feel like trying to lean to tinker on it thats ok.
How long was the carb sitting and u said it was on an old motor that blew up
Do you have good spark while cranking?any way I can check to see if I have a good spark ?
GT
Do you have good spark while cranking?i had one ready jet I watched a buddy lite his bug on fire because of a leaking carb so I was ready and I'm assuming I do the plugs are new I put then in end of last season and the wires got replaced by the shop the blew up my motor
Also, just a safety tip, as soon as you said dripping gas. Have the fire extinguisher at the ready.... Don't ask...
GT
