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Messages - evilb

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1
Jet Pumps / Re: Is it possible to purchase a new dominator pump minus the bowl and nozzle assemb
« on: February 01, 2020, 02:16:35 PM »
The thermostat is installed ow but like I said I've tried every conceivable plumbing configuration on and off the water including without the thermostat.

I seem to be getting good flow out of the overboard dump and no water bypasses overboard at idle.  When on the hose I connect it directly to the -10 feed so it's all going through the engine. I've also run it on the water without the relief valve, for science.

I can't pull the bowl right now because I'm in Iowa and the boat is in storage in a car port.. snow and stuff... I do plan to pull it to inspect when I'm able..

The engine turns over easy and runs great.

I'll also add that my previous jet boat (455, Hardin logs, Berkeley pump, gate valve on the source and no thermostat) behaved exactly like you would expect - always cold unless you choked down the gate some.  I just can't understand what could cause this engine to run hotter with full hose flow. And yes, compression checks good. No blown head gaskets.

2
Jet Pumps / Re: Is it possible to purchase a new dominator pump minus the bowl and nozzle assemb
« on: January 31, 2020, 10:58:38 AM »
My setup is a freshly rebuilt 455, Bassett headers, pressure relief valve set to 15psi with overboard dump. -10 from the pressure relief valve to a tee. -8 lines to the water plate. -8 lines to the thermostat housing. One -8 overboard, one -8 to a ball valve and to the Bassett tee.

One curious thing is the overheating seems to coincide with the engine rebuild but I can't find any reason that it would be the engine. I can't find discernable hot spots with an infrared thermometer and there doesn't seem to be a restriction in the flow through the engine. I've even plumbed it so the water travels backwards through the engine as a test.

On the hose it will idle at the correct temp with the hose full blast but it should be COLD.

The prop is a blueprinted bronze A cut.  The pump builder said he had to custom machine the ware ring due to the early suction housing dimensions..

3
Jet Pumps / Is it possible to purchase a new dominator pump minus the bowl and nozzle assemb
« on: January 28, 2020, 04:02:39 PM »
I have an early 12s pump that I'd like to replace with the updated suction housing. It already has a new dominator bowl and the shaft has been machined for an inducer (which is installed). There is a problem with the pump in which there is a vibration below 2000 rpm as well as overheating at lower rpms (all overheating remedies have been attempted including new hoses, old school plumbing, thermostat plumbing, extra overboard dump, etc). Anywho, I'm thinking that I might have a cooling water flow issue possibly related to the wierd vibration at idle. I now want to ditch the old suction housing for a newer one with larger diameter flow area around the prop. Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a new suction housing with prop, but without the bowl. I presume I can swap my inducer shaft into it as long as it isn't worn or bent. Also, my existing pump was rebuilt by ARS and had the problem as soon as it was ran after rebuild but it was a year since he did the work before I knew about the problem so I never sent it back to George - so that's on me.

Thanks for any input.

4
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Newly rebuilt olds over heating
« on: August 24, 2018, 06:02:01 PM »
Quote from: Chad krieger on August 24, 2018, 05:46:43 PM
Is it a basset t by chance


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The feed tee is open. The header tee is Bassett.

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5
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Newly rebuilt olds over heating
« on: August 22, 2018, 07:04:36 PM »
I have headers.

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6
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Newly rebuilt olds over heating
« on: August 22, 2018, 03:15:20 PM »
Quote from: Chad krieger on August 22, 2018, 09:15:34 AM
Are u running a t


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Yes. T into the water plate.

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7
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Newly rebuilt olds over heating
« on: August 22, 2018, 03:14:47 PM »
Quote from: spectralen on August 21, 2018, 07:06:32 PM
Is this a rebuild? New head gaskets? Might not be the right ones or on wrong?
Fresh rebuild. Felpro marine gaskets. Didn't over heat during cam break-in.

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8
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Newly rebuilt olds over heating
« on: August 21, 2018, 06:02:23 PM »
Quote from: evilb on August 21, 2018, 04:24:34 PM
I recently broke in my rebuilt 455 (due to a flattened cam) and everything went smoothly. Ran it on the hose for the break-in. I was running a bypass thermostat setup with headers and one overboard dump. It stayed locked at 160 degrees. On the first run on the water it over heated. I trouble shot and found my pressure regulator was stuck fully open causing reduced flow through the engine. Took it apart, found nothing wrong, and reassembled. Second outing, over heated. Re-plumbed to remove the regulator. Same result. Next I ran it on the hose with the thermostat and it over heated. I then plumbed it the old school way without the thermostat (just two connections on the housing, overboard and headers). Ran on the hose at idle and couldn't see lower than 150 degrees at full hose pressure. It should be COLD!. BTW, on the hose my water pressure is about 3 psi at max which is more than the pump makes at idle. There is no water in the oil and except for running somewhat rich it runs great. I'm so stumped. Any thoughts?
Also, outlet water seems to reflect what would be exiting the hose. And it's plenty hot..

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9
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Newly rebuilt olds over heating
« on: August 21, 2018, 04:24:34 PM »
I recently broke in my rebuilt 455 (due to a flattened cam) and everything went smoothly. Ran it on the hose for the break-in. I was running a bypass thermostat setup with headers and one overboard dump. It stayed locked at 160 degrees. On the first run on the water it over heated. I trouble shot and found my pressure regulator was stuck fully open causing reduced flow through the engine. Took it apart, found nothing wrong, and reassembled. Second outing, over heated. Re-plumbed to remove the regulator. Same result. Next I ran it on the hose with the thermostat and it over heated. I then plumbed it the old school way without the thermostat (just two connections on the housing, overboard and headers). Ran on the hose at idle and couldn't see lower than 150 degrees at full hose pressure. It should be COLD!. BTW, on the hose my water pressure is about 3 psi at max which is more than the pump makes at idle. There is no water in the oil and except for running somewhat rich it runs great. I'm so stumped. Any thoughts?

10
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: ISO Dominator Droop
« on: March 14, 2018, 04:53:05 PM »
Quote from: TBAG111 on March 14, 2018, 02:06:57 PM
Let me know if there are any droops out there.

Thank you
I have one that i need to replace with  a Berkeley style. What would you offer?

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11
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds oil pickup help
« on: March 12, 2018, 08:51:28 PM »
Quote from: GT Jets on March 12, 2018, 04:19:09 PM
One last thing to consider before I go back to work on my secret project...   :sly:

A jet boat engine pulls nearly no horsepower at all until about 3,500 RPM, it does not require the lower register oiling a car does. A car has to "pull a gear"... I've said it 100 times. build the engine to run at 4k rpm. with the occasional 5k rpm flog. A standard pump is more than adequate in this application.

Have a great evening...

GT
Thank you very much for your reply! Great info. I will measure pickup to pan clearance and tack everything in place. I ordered a stock type pump and pickup. I have good break-in oil and plenty of additive. Eventually I plan to run Castrol 15w40 with additive. Thanks everyone.

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12
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds oil pickup help
« on: March 12, 2018, 02:01:58 PM »
Quote from: Maker on March 12, 2018, 01:23:49 PM
If memory serves me correctly  the 10qt pan is the same depth as a stock pan

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Oh... Ok. I'll take some measurements. Thanks!

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13
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds oil pickup help
« on: March 12, 2018, 07:20:49 AM »
Also, I did see that moroso pickup but I think it's for a dealer pan than the Milodon. Has anyone used it with the Milodon pan?

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14
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds oil pickup help
« on: March 12, 2018, 07:18:58 AM »
Thanks for the replies guys. Engine is already assembled. It doesn't have restrictors installed. (Yeah, I know...but it is what it is). I do have external oil drains because I had valve covers filling up before. The external drains fixed that. I'm afraid that the HV pump will set me back to where I started with the heads filling up. Plus more load on the cam gear. Thoughts?

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15
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Olds oil pickup help
« on: March 11, 2018, 04:12:06 PM »
I'm putting together a rebuilt 455 that previously lost a cam. Planning on a new oil pump but don't want a high volume pump. I have a Milodon 10qt jet boat pan. The only pickup made for that pan is a bolt on style made for the hv pump. What have people done to run a correct depth pickup that fits on a stock style, press fit pump? The previous owner had a stock pump with what looks like a stock puckup that was bent with vice grips or something. The screen has a rust hole so I don't want to use it. Plus it looks janky as sh**. Any advice?

16
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds head gasket help.
« on: September 16, 2016, 01:00:01 PM »
Quote from: Maker on September 16, 2016, 12:57:59 PM
I've never had a problem with the blue fel pro gaskets on fairly stock engines  I ran those on my last 455 that had about 500 hours on it before I tore it apart

Thanks for the input.

17
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds head gasket help.
« on: September 16, 2016, 07:38:07 AM »
Right. That's very close to what I got when I remeasured with a different mic. So, what are people's opinions in the fel-1155 or any other gasket. Should I just buy some cheaper ones from the parts store and run it? It's a pretty stock engine.

18
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds head gasket help.
« on: September 15, 2016, 06:15:01 PM »
Just remeasure with another digital mic. Came out correctly for 060 over. My chamfers measure 4.26. That said, should i just go with the fel pro 1155? Also, any recommendations for intake gaskets? I'm running an offy t-ram and the gasket that came off was a steel turkey tray. I don't plan on using one of those.

19
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Olds head gasket help.
« on: September 15, 2016, 05:09:52 PM »
I'm having trouble finding replacement head gaskets for my 455. I pulled a head due to water in a cylinder and misfiring. Found a broken pushrods and blown head gasket. Also found forged 060 over pistons. The bore measures 4.27 at the top and 4.3 at the outside of the chamfer. So I'm looking for gaskets with a bore size = or greater than 4.3. the only thing I can find are MLS gaskets that require surface smoothness of 60ra or better. I really doubt my head and block surfaces are that smooth(don't have all the old composite gasket cleaned off yet).  So I'm worried about MLS gaskets making a good seal. I wanted this to be a quick, fix the head, throw it back together type of thing. Any thoughts? Oh, btw, from the marks on the head and block from the fire ring of the the old gasket I think it was a bit to small. Looks like it over hung into the combustion chamber a tiny bit. Maybe why it failed..

20
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Possible blown head gasket on olds.
« on: August 25, 2016, 04:46:09 AM »
Thanks for the replies guys. I've been busy so haven't gotten the compression test done yet. Will do soon. Maybe a tiny bit of water in oil. But at the same time it started missing it seemed to start running hotter too. up to 200 degrees. before it was right around 160.

I don't think the pressure was too high but I'll recheck the regulator. I did milkshake it before. That's why I got the regulator. I'll report back after the compression/leak down.

21
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Possible blown head gasket on olds.
« on: August 22, 2016, 02:34:29 PM »
My boat recently started running bad (missing/ running on 7 cylinders) and running hotter. Full disclosure; I have a Hardin bypass thermostat kit that has worked great. I also have a regulator with overboard dump. I know right off the bat some of you would tell me to ditch those items but they have been working flawlessly for a while previous to this problem. So I pulled the plugs and found the right side middle two fouled with fuel - but one slightly rusty and had what looked like water on it. So....head gasket most likely right? Just wanted to ask for any pro tips on doing the head gaskets; or, what brand and type work best for this application. Copper spray? Also, it looks like it has a one piece turkey tray intake gasket in it now. Does anyone reuse the valley pan section (cutting off the gasket part) and install composite gaskets? I've done this with a previous olds powered boat but didn't own it for too long after I did the work to know if there were any issues. Also what about exhaust port block offs?

22
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Dual carb scoop
« on: July 12, 2016, 01:01:59 AM »
Thanks

23
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Dual carb scoop
« on: July 11, 2016, 09:44:28 PM »
Is it aluminium?

24
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Dual carb scoop
« on: July 11, 2016, 09:04:53 PM »
What's the spacing? Would you ship it?

25
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Crankcase pressure in an Olds question?
« on: June 17, 2016, 04:51:14 AM »
This is also how I did mine but instead of the vacuum I plugged the internal drain back hole, used plenty of grease and oil to drill and tap. I did place my bungs next to main caps. Works like a charm.

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