Same here - the grease is coming out the cable end fitting on the inside of the boat.  Still getting corrosion somehow....

Hello all.  Tired of replacing my steering cable every 4-5 years on my day cruiser.  I had the grease fitting on the end of my last Teleflex SS "Rack" cable, but it didn't really help prevent cable corrosion.

There appears to be a new Teleflex (now Seastar) cable: "SSC154XX TFXtreme".  I reached out to them to inquire as to the internal construction (all stainless or not), but nobody has gotten back to me.  I hate that.

Uflex advertises an "armour-wrapped stainless steel core" cable.  Does this mean it's all stainless?  I dunno.  Also reached out to them with no reply back......grrrr.

Anyone have any real-life comparisons of the relative corrosion resistance of these (or any other) jet boat steering cables?

Thanks

If he has the old coil I'd try that first.  If not that, then the condensor (what's that???).  And like GT said, verify voltage at the coil while running. 

Cool - looks like you had the river to yourself.  Dardenne Slough?

Hey folks - I bought a set of used IMCO (or IMCO-like) exhaust manifolds & pipes for my BBC.  I have two questions for those in the know:

1) There are plugs at the bottom of each exhaust port runner.  I've seen these used as water feed ports, and I've seen them plugged up, as on mine.  Certainly you have to use them to drain the manifolds for winterizing.  Is it preferable (or necessary) to use these ports as the water feed ports, as opposed to feeding the manifold from the end via the large pipe port?  Seems like you won't get much (or any) water flow to the entrance section of the runners if you were end-feeding the water.

2) There are two slots along the walls at the manifold exit, where the tailpipes bolt on.  I'm guessing that these are for a gas flow divider.  Any reason(s) not to have the dividers in there?  Mine don't have the dividers.

TIA - Matt

Hacker Alert

Having absolutely, positively eliminated all other possible causes:

1) VERY PRECISELY project the location on the gunwale where the fuel suction tube would intersect the gunwale if the tube were long enough.  A long drill or piece of close-fitting tubing or pipe, inserted inside the existing suction tube, can be used to do this.  Shine a bright LED flashlight on the inside of the gunwale in order to be able to see where the drill/tube/pipe is on the OUTSIDE of the gunwale, and mark that location.
2) Drill a pilot hole in the middle of your marked location.  Stick a rod through the pilot hole to verify your hole location on the gunwale.  This is your last chance to make small adjustments in the (larger) hole location.
3) Enlarge the gunwale hole to the appropriate fuel suction tube size (3/8" or 1/2").
4) Install a Swagelok (or similar) pipe-to-tube adapter fitting in the female NPT bung on the tank.  The fitting will have to be bore all the way through for your suction tube size.
5) Use your gunwale hole and your Swagelok fitting (installed in the tank bung) as a drill guide to drill out the suction tube that is welded to the tank bung.  If your tube is welded to your tank fitting, then you don't need to do this step.
6) Insert new suction tube through hole in gunwale and swage in place ~ 1/2" off the tank bottom.  I baloney-sliced the end of my tube to ensure that I didn't put it on the bottom of the tank.

The most important thing for you to do is use your existing fuel tank bung to help you locate the hole in the gunwale, since you will need to put the suction tube in straight.

Install a large, free-flowing filter upstream of the fuel pump to capture all of the crap that you just introduced onto the tank, if you don't already have one.

Bahner909:
I like!!!  Nice, low profile.

Questions: Are they vented?  What's the mounting flange diameter?  Where did you buy them?

Thanks

"98% of the population will never understand,  and for that, I am truly sad."

Actually, I look at it the other way:  I'm happy about it.  Just think how crowded those rivers and lakes would be if everyone thought this was the greatest thing in the world.   

PM sent on roller rockers.

While I agree that there should be a shut-off valve in every jet boat, I think that there's more for us ALL to learn here.

The scenario that I imagine is that this guy was out by himself for a simple mid-winter joy ride or a shakedown/tuning cruise.  He suddenly notices that the boat has gotten sluggish, or maybe the water got high enough inside the boat that its lapping at his seat bottom.

At this point, PANIC sets in.  He realizes he has a no-$h!t 5-alarm emergency! (put yourself in his place).  At this point, there's so much water in the back of the boat that he couldn't tell where it was coming in from, even if his heart wasn't racing at 180 bpm.  It could be from a lost freeze plug or a loose or burst hose, which the shut-off valve would take care of.  It could also be a failed intake seal, cracked suction piece, or a hand-hole clean-out that came loose.  There are probably other things I haven't thought of, not related to engine cooling, that couldn't be fixed by shutting off a valve.  At this point, the chances were probably very slim that he'd be able to logically diagnose the cause and fix it.  I don't think I could.

My point is this:  There are many things that can quickly go wrong out on the water, and the cold water compounded his risk.  The first thing everyone should do in any kind of situation like this is put on their life vests.  I think the urge is to "Save The Boat", when we should more concerned with self-preservation and the safety of our friends and family.  He still might not have survived due to the cold water, but I think it would have increased his odds.

A very unfortunate event.  It made me think about things I should/could do in a similar situation.  Is there anything else we can learn from this???

Be safe out there....

and this sum bitch wont touch glass?......or is easy on glass....wont gauge it quickly?

It's relatively easy on the resin.  The matrix has silicone carbide in it, which is very hard.  But the matrix flexes.  It will scratch the resin, but it won't really take off any significant amount of material unless you really hold the wheel in one spot for a long time, and over-heat the resin.  Think of it as a really heavy-duty Scotch-Brite pad.

I'd go with the A-A.  Looks like a perfect fit, as long as your engine's torque curve will allow you to pull through the lower RPM's to get to 4800 RPM.  It should, since it sounds like it's not too radical in the camshaft department.

My 2 cts....

You'll almost certainly have to compound it, and then wax it.  The vinegar "might" save you some work though.