Kodiak Marine 460, stock forged flat tops with 9:1 compression, Cobra Jet cam/intake, heads are off and I was going to hone the block and put in new bearings but lost interest in the project. Has the Kodiak center riser alum ex manifolds. I'm looking for a V drive box, BBC Gen 4 V drive oil pan, oval port BBC manifold, shaft log. In Chico, 100 miles north of Sacto, Trades welcome! 530-864-4846

Paul Kane/LakesOnly/High Flow Dynamics has this to say about the engine:

Your Kodiak 460 should be one of the more desirable Marine 460 offered. If that's the case, then your engine should have come from the factory with forged flat-top pistons, fully-grooved main bearings, "special" marine valve springs/cups/retainers, a D0OE-6425-C Super Cobra Jet intake manifold, an SCJ 216*/220* duration camshaft, and a few other goodies. Without disassembling the engine, you should be able to confirm the SCJ intake by locating the number atop the manifold just behind the carburetor mounting pad. This engine should also have D6VE-AA truck rods (a la CJ rods).

If you have the factory forged flat-top pistons (made by TRW) then hopefully you will be able to get away with a light cylinder hone and rings because those pistons have not been made for about 20 years. But if they are in good shape there is no reason not to use them. They are a very rugged piston for your application. Factory compression ratio is a real-world 9:1 with the OEM heads that are D3VEs or E6TEs (<----essentially D3VEs with hard seats).

Even though you intend to keep rpm around 3000 rpm, I recommend against the standard 1/2-groove main bearings usually found in the passenger car engines and you stick with the fully-grooved main bearings. They will provide your rod bearings with continuous oil feed to the rods in your marine application (3/4-groove bearigs at least).

Your best bet would be a ring & bearing job, deck the cylinder block to 10.300", bowl blend the intake and exhaust bowls, radius the short turn on
the exhaust port floor-to-bowl, new stainless intake and exhaust valves and a nice valve job. (no need to go further on the port work in your application.) and make sure the hydraulic lifters are returned to their EXACT same lifter bores. Or install new ones and break in he cam all over again.

I need a 12v pump like you'd see used with some Bennett trim tabs. I suppose something from a Place diverter type of unit would work also. Let me know what you've got!

Lance

Looking for your typical 4pt rear mount/bell housing assembly with top mount starter provision for my Chevy. Also need the components to make up an extended length drive line from engine to Berk pump.