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Topics - evilb

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I have an early 12s pump that I'd like to replace with the updated suction housing. It already has a new dominator bowl and the shaft has been machined for an inducer (which is installed). There is a problem with the pump in which there is a vibration below 2000 rpm as well as overheating at lower rpms (all overheating remedies have been attempted including new hoses, old school plumbing, thermostat plumbing, extra overboard dump, etc). Anywho, I'm thinking that I might have a cooling water flow issue possibly related to the wierd vibration at idle. I now want to ditch the old suction housing for a newer one with larger diameter flow area around the prop. Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a new suction housing with prop, but without the bowl. I presume I can swap my inducer shaft into it as long as it isn't worn or bent. Also, my existing pump was rebuilt by ARS and had the problem as soon as it was ran after rebuild but it was a year since he did the work before I knew about the problem so I never sent it back to George - so that's on me.

Thanks for any input.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Newly rebuilt olds over heating
« on: August 21, 2018, 04:24:34 PM »
I recently broke in my rebuilt 455 (due to a flattened cam) and everything went smoothly. Ran it on the hose for the break-in. I was running a bypass thermostat setup with headers and one overboard dump. It stayed locked at 160 degrees. On the first run on the water it over heated. I trouble shot and found my pressure regulator was stuck fully open causing reduced flow through the engine. Took it apart, found nothing wrong, and reassembled. Second outing, over heated. Re-plumbed to remove the regulator. Same result. Next I ran it on the hose with the thermostat and it over heated. I then plumbed it the old school way without the thermostat (just two connections on the housing, overboard and headers). Ran on the hose at idle and couldn't see lower than 150 degrees at full hose pressure. It should be COLD!. BTW, on the hose my water pressure is about 3 psi at max which is more than the pump makes at idle. There is no water in the oil and except for running somewhat rich it runs great. I'm so stumped. Any thoughts?

3
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Olds oil pickup help
« on: March 11, 2018, 04:12:06 PM »
I'm putting together a rebuilt 455 that previously lost a cam. Planning on a new oil pump but don't want a high volume pump. I have a Milodon 10qt jet boat pan. The only pickup made for that pan is a bolt on style made for the hv pump. What have people done to run a correct depth pickup that fits on a stock style, press fit pump? The previous owner had a stock pump with what looks like a stock puckup that was bent with vice grips or something. The screen has a rust hole so I don't want to use it. Plus it looks janky as sh**. Any advice?

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Olds head gasket help.
« on: September 15, 2016, 05:09:52 PM »
I'm having trouble finding replacement head gaskets for my 455. I pulled a head due to water in a cylinder and misfiring. Found a broken pushrods and blown head gasket. Also found forged 060 over pistons. The bore measures 4.27 at the top and 4.3 at the outside of the chamfer. So I'm looking for gaskets with a bore size = or greater than 4.3. the only thing I can find are MLS gaskets that require surface smoothness of 60ra or better. I really doubt my head and block surfaces are that smooth(don't have all the old composite gasket cleaned off yet).  So I'm worried about MLS gaskets making a good seal. I wanted this to be a quick, fix the head, throw it back together type of thing. Any thoughts? Oh, btw, from the marks on the head and block from the fire ring of the the old gasket I think it was a bit to small. Looks like it over hung into the combustion chamber a tiny bit. Maybe why it failed..

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Possible blown head gasket on olds.
« on: August 22, 2016, 02:34:29 PM »
My boat recently started running bad (missing/ running on 7 cylinders) and running hotter. Full disclosure; I have a Hardin bypass thermostat kit that has worked great. I also have a regulator with overboard dump. I know right off the bat some of you would tell me to ditch those items but they have been working flawlessly for a while previous to this problem. So I pulled the plugs and found the right side middle two fouled with fuel - but one slightly rusty and had what looked like water on it. So....head gasket most likely right? Just wanted to ask for any pro tips on doing the head gaskets; or, what brand and type work best for this application. Copper spray? Also, it looks like it has a one piece turkey tray intake gasket in it now. Does anyone reuse the valley pan section (cutting off the gasket part) and install composite gaskets? I've done this with a previous olds powered boat but didn't own it for too long after I did the work to know if there were any issues. Also what about exhaust port block offs?

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I know this topic is kind of being discussed in another thread but I'm looking for some info specific to delta hulls. My boat has a one piece rideplate/shoe that's bolted to the intake. Obviously it lowers the biting edge of the intake. Can anyone offer some input as to how appropriate this might be for this type of hull? I have a loader that I haven't trimmed due to various opinions about Delta's needing to scoop up more water. The boat does 65 at 4900 with a fresh early dominator pump with an A impeller. Should I consider back cutting the plate to reduce drag?

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Olds rear main seal
« on: April 09, 2016, 08:03:36 AM »
OK. My engine is out for external drain back mods and I want to fix the rear main seal leak that's been messing up ma bilge all last year. I've never done one. Can anyone give me some tips? I've heard to use a Ford 460 seal. Can I just pick one of those up at the parts store? Will I have to lift the crank to get the old seal out? What works the best?

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I have an old accel dual point distributor (model escapes me at the moment..will update after work) on my olds with a tunnel ram. It's working pretty good but I'd like to go electronic. As far as I can tell no one makes a kit for it. It's almost identical to a Mallory YL series but the insides are different.  Obviously I can't go hei because of the t-ram. Does anyone have some ideas for a solution? Should I try to source a used Mallory?

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Jet Pumps / Intake setup advice
« on: October 07, 2015, 10:21:34 AM »
I'm looking for advice from anyone who familiar with hardware setup on delta vee hulls. The boat is an eliminator bubble deck 18'. As you may know this hull doesn't have a huge delta but I've read that loader and shoe setup is a little trickier than on a rounded keel hull. The pump is an early dominator suction piece with a new bowl, droop, PD, Hardin ss loader, and inducer. The intake is machined but it has a one piece shoe/ride plate. This summer was my first time running the boat so I have no comparison data from before this setup. It runs 65mph at 4900rpm with a tunnel ram olds. I expected a little more top end so I was looking to tweek the jet hardware. I have not yet cut the loader. I'm wondering if I'm overloading the pump with the biting edges of the loader and or the rideplate/shoe. The rideplate is 1/4in and is flush against the keel behind the inlet. How do i measure for loader depth on a delta keel? Any insight is appreciated.

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Projects / Splash guard mounting
« on: August 03, 2015, 01:10:01 PM »
I'm going to have a splash guard cut out of 1/8 inch acrylic for my eliminator bubble. To any of you with splash guards - could you share you mounting techniques? What kind of hardware did you use? Did you slot the holes to account for thermal expansion? What about finishing/ sealing between the plexi and the boat. I keep thinking that a peace of vinyl with piping at the top would look nice and also provide sort of a gasket but then I'd have to get more materials and have it stitched. Any thoughts? Pics would be great too and I'll definitely post some of mine..

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Boat Showcase / Hello from a new member..
« on: June 24, 2015, 07:38:58 PM »
Hey everyone. I've been lurking for a while and have even posted a few replys. Want to start off by saying this is a great forum and I love that everyone acts like friends (and actually are friends) here.

I have grown up in Iowa being fortunate enough to frequent my parent's lake house all my life (sold a few years ago). My dad was a hot boat enthusiast so naturally I grew up with the bug. He never had anything really wild but following his death I inherited his 76 cobrajet and 86 Taylor LP stern drive. Last year I sold the cobrajet and purchased a 76 eliminator bubble deck. Turns out the seller lied to me and the pump was shot. I've spent the last few months fixing up the boat and its finally ready to test. Here are some pics of my progress. It came with a really early dominator pump. Work done includes pump rebuild with blueprinted bronze impeller, inducer, loader, new bowl, new place diverter, rail engine mount kit(curtacey JPB), a few new gauges and misc. Upgrades. The boat was sold to me as having some work done internally to the olds but upon my inspection it looks stock. Hope to put it in the water for the first test run this weekend. I'll post some pics of the whole boat when the rain quits and I get it outside to clean it up. Here's what I've got so far..




http://imgur.com/TfuXVb5
http://imgur.com/FvkYjvj
http://imgur.com/uNYQwDw
http://imgur.com/q5OyJ22
http://imgur.com/5dLGGI7
http://imgur.com/Wa88dmR
http://imgur.com/VqiXlBi
http://imgur.com/0CKZC84
http://imgur.com/MRJkAi4
http://imgur.com/cMo55vY
http://imgur.com/QJlvI9k
http://imgur.com/BGvDrKC
http://imgur.com/D9ENMkx
http://imgur.com/jfS4ENm
http://imgur.com/gPxcOAw
http://imgur.com/idqjMIp
http://imgur.com/Tkf2OMO
http://imgur.com/cArCz6K

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Jet Pumps / shifter cable help
« on: April 18, 2015, 11:20:30 AM »
I recently purchased a 76 eliminator bubble deck. I'm having the pump worked over and adding a hydraulic diverter. When I got the boat the shifter cable was held in place on the tiller arm by some home made clamp on one side and a worm clamp on the other. I believe this is because the cable is a 43c series rather than the bulkhead style 43bc. Does this sound right. The only pump I've seen with the clamp style cable is the Berk je with the bottom mount cable. Is there some kind of retainer for this cable to work with a standard top down Berk/place arrangement or am I screwed?

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