While on Lake Havasu last year, my boat was hit by a houseboat and totaled - leaving me with a 2 year old trailer (used for 1 season) that I now have no use for. 
It has 4+ spare, everything is in great condition. Tows straight and true, 7 pin hookup with surge brakes and disconnect, and everything on it is adjustable - the axles, the bunks, the wench. This trailer can handle a big assortment of boats as is, and there is extra length on the tounge that may allow even longer boats to fit. It was set up for a 21 foot Jetboat (Cheyenne day cruiser, looks like a southwind) but because I spent extra for it to be fully adjustable, it can fit many boats.

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/boa/2183440975.html

Ok everyone says AT's are better and they load the pump harder. They certainly look better BUT does it make the boat go any faster? Basically the load on the pump is the water flow and resistance, and one that loads harder well, doesn't that just mean it is flowing the same at a lower RPM?

If I took two impellers, say an A3 Berk and an A2 AT, and they load at the same RPM, will one actually be faster?

I put a few tanks of terribles 100 octane in the boat when I was at parker, and read the plugs - it was a hair on the richer side deemed pretty close to perfect. ran well.

After playing in parker on memorial day, the following weekend in havi, I still had one tank with some 100 in it, but put 91 in both tanks at fill up. Basically one tank with a mix, then one tank with pure 91 (AZ gas).

The next morning, I went out for a tune. I lost a little more than 350 rpm, with nothing else changing. Reading the plugs, it looks a little lean now.

I am wondering if it is the octane, or possibly oxygenated gas causing the issue. This is the first time I've tried to run anything but pump gas, just wanted everyone's opinion.

Anyone else heading down there?

OK, so I swapped out my iron heads for some raised port stage 6 heads. In the process, it lifted my tunnel ram 2 inches, and now I can't open my hatch without removing my front air cleaner.

I found that I have only about 3.5 inches from carb center to work with, and maybe 3 inches in height.

I have an old Mercruiser spark arrester that fits, 7.5 in diameter, 2 inch tall, # 805298 so I either need to find another one or find a pair something that will also fit. If someone has a street scoop they could measure, I'd need the rear carb center to scoop end  dimensions.

if someone has one or a suggestion I'm all ears.

Coming back monday night....

 

Last week, I thought I was done. I just manage to get one tax bill done - now I have another one. For more money.

I owe $2150 to NY state, due by July 2nd. Will the fun never end?

So - I need to sell the wonderfully running well totally complete 455 olds that was in my boat. Taken out because the boat was in an accident, and I wanted a Mopar in there. Can't have a guy named speedymopars with an Olds, can we?  New intake, pan, valve cover gaskets. Performer. Electronic ignition with factory coil. Accell plug wires. Good water pump. Berkeley water neck and impellor. Hardin Logs and snails. Herbert .490 lift 230 duration hyd cam. Low hours on engine, very clean inside. Gil marine 10 qt pan (installed), + factory 7 qt job. All fittings, senders, balancer, hoses etc still on engine. Ka heads. PTO / Driveshaft. New (5 starts) marine starter. 90 A alternator. Large mechanical fuel pump. Berkely adapt a jet (rear mount). Wiring harness adapter. Was able to turn my berk A to 5200 RPM with an 850 DP, I have a 750 vac I can put on it . If you're close enough - basically mexican border / river / vegas / bakersfield - I'll drive it to you, and I'll help you install it if you are ready for it (I own a hoist).

2K for everything including door to door delivery / install. 
I can also start taking off stuff you don't need to get the price down if need be (or you pick it up). Make an offer. 2K might seem much until you start adding up what's on it, and trying to duplicate it time and money - you will be out at least $4-5K and many months of time. Plus you get my time too on this.

This is a good engine that can have you on the river in a few *hours* (even the ignition timing is set) and I will garentee it runs well and should last a long time without abuse. 

I also have the stock nozzle and large rudder for a Berkeley JC, along with the exhaust hoses and TT tips for the engine above.

From OC - What is the best way to get to Lake Havasu? The 40? The 10? Mileage wise, only 10 miles different, but the hills and traffic can play a big part....


How about Parker?

Has anyone used one of these?

http://www.teleflexmarine.com/library/A4pics/usa-rack-1.jpg

The marine shop put new steering in my boat, and now right is left, and left is right.

There is a big warning on the rack itself to not disasemble otherwise failure could result.

In looking at it, they put it in with the rack up, when it should be rack down. I would assume that would be correct for a right hand drive boat (mine is left), and the cable would be correct. It looks like they just flipped it up side down for the left drive, and now things are backwards. If I pull the long rack part off, flip the pinion around so it engages on the bottom, and flip the rack so it mounts, it would correct the steering.

Does anyone know if this system comes dissasembled like it shows in the pic? I'd hate to flip it if it cames assembled, and void a warrentee.

I am running an MSD 6a, and was wondering how critical it is to have a limiter on there. Of course it is always nice to have, but how often is it needed?

Here is the senario -
21 foot day cruiser - not as easy to pull jet out of water like a lighter boat
but hand throttle only
with an engine that is mechanically good to 7500+


I am more worried about the impellor and the shock of coming out of the water having the engine rev to 6500+ (or whatever) and then hitting it again with water (hand throttle, so I may not get out of it if it was unexpected). If I got a limiter, I could match it to the normal max RPM, so there woudn't be the shock and load, but maybe it doesn't matter. If the aluminum impellor will hold up, a limiter would probably be a waste of money.

Do the majority of modified jets use a limiter, and if so, how often do you hit it?

Gonna do the wild thing on the holiday weekend, and pick up the kids on Monday night for the rest of the week.

I was thinking this morning - which is usually dangerous.


On an engine build, to save the bearings from the first time start, we use assembly lube in one form or another. This is basically a grease that will dissolve when oil flows through it, so that first run has full bearing lubrication and doesn't eat itself up even if it takes a while for the oil to flow.

On a jet, the only issue with running dry from what I can see, is the wear ring to impellor clearance (first time start - debris is an issue later). So what if I coated the wear ring with assy lube? I would obviously wash it out before the jet hit the water, BUT it would allow me to fire the new engine / new jet for the first time in my driveway without worrying about it being on the water.

Thoughts ? Other areas I would need to lube?

I need to get dark blue bumpers for my hull. The company my boat shop knows about basically is out and isn't ordering anymore, so I need to find an alternate source. It is 3/4 to an inch in width. Anyone have any? Looking for new or exceptional quality.